Kia - Spectra :: Car Won't Start In Cold Despite Brand New Battery
Jan 26, 2014
My 2009 Kia Spectra won't start when the weather is extremely cold. I live in NH, right on the coast, and the car's parking spot affords it no protection from strong winds that we get here and therefore low temps. There was a cold spell with winds roughly a month ago and the following morning the car wouldn't start. the electronics inside still worked, but it didn't start. When it warmed up later that day it started up normally. the same series of events has been repeating itself over this last bit of cold weather, so I replaced the battery (upgrading from 550 CCA to 650 CCA). II went to start it this morning and once again, it won't start. I've had an oil change with all the fluids checked and replaced or filled just a couple days ago. The car will start in the morning with jumper cables. What might be going on here?
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My 2006 Honda Civic LX has 120,000 miles. About a month ago I stopped for gas, and when I got back into the car, it wouldn't start. It cranked a couple times but then after a couple tries that stopped. The power all came on as normal (lights, radio, everything with no dimming), but the engine wouldn't go all the way. I got a jump and things were fine for a couple of weeks, then it did it to me again, following a brief stop in the grocery store after my highway commute home. Again, jumped the car and went home.
After four days with no sign of trouble, it happened again at the gas station. I then took it to a mechanic who spent 2 days with it and declared my problem a mystery. He couldn't get the car to not start for him and said my battery, alternator, fuses, everything he looked at seemed fine. He thinks it could be the starter but couldn't be completely sure enough to do such expensive work. I also let it sit for two days to see if there was a battery drain, but it started up just fine after sitting for those two days. I did notice that it seems to not want to start the day or two after I use my headlights. Now, 5 days since the last episode, it's starting but the crank is a little slow. My battery is one month old. I'm at a loss and don't want to throw money at the problem without knowing. I'm tired of driving everywhere afraid to turn the car off, too.
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Last night while driving my battery light and bake light came on and stayed on. Nothing seems wrong at least not yet ( but they are warning lights) what it could be?
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My wife has a 03 kia spectra that won't shift into 3rd gear[Automatic] when it's cold. The trans. filter and fluid have been change and it was fine for about 3 months until today. Talked to a dealer and they had no clue other than to get a new trans. The car has 105,000 mi.so I really don't wanna spend that much $ on it if I don't have to
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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra. I had to replace the battery earlier today as the old one was completely dead. the ac, heat, and defrost worked perfectly before and after the replacement. after I drove around and did what I had to do I got in the car for the 3rd time and neither of those would come on anymore. what could be the cause? all the fuses have been checked and are good.
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05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
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I have a 09 Spectra. This morning when I went to start, it turned over fine but just wouldn't catch. I tried it and gave it a little gas and it fired up just fine and I drove to work with no issues. No CEL came on or anything.
This is the second time it's happened. First was over a year ago and after it sat for a week while we were on a cruise. This weekend it didn't go anywhere. I just moved it in the driveway a little bit so I could rotate the tires and and moved it back.
Any clue on what it could be? If what I understand is correct, pressing the gas pedal on a fuel injected car shouldn't matter, but apparently it did, so I'm not sure what's what.
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I drive a 2009 Kia Spectra. Mileage - 89,000. About a year ago, very infrequently, I started noticing that the engine would start racing when I would try to come to a stop. Now, almost every time I start the car, the engine is racing while it is still in park. And when I come to a stop sign or stoplight, the engine races when I put on the brakes. This is NOT an issue with the mat hitting the accelerator. Lately, also, the car is starting to die for no reason when I bring it to a stop. I took this in to a mechanic, they could not find a problem--they cleaned off some cables but the engine was racing when I turned it on to drive home.
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Very occasionally and usually from a cold start I get a rapid discharge of the battery.
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My 2009 corolla recently started producing a brief metallic sound (less than a second) when i start in a cold morning. I noticed that when I warm up my battery (by starting the heat ventilator or other electrical equipment) for 10-20 seconds the car starts normally. The other thing I noticed that I have some white powder deposits on the top of my battery. There is no any other changes in the way my car runs.
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I had a battery light come on and saw the alt wasnt charging my battery. So, I replaced the alt with a rebuilt hitachi. Well it was charging at 14.10 and thought all was well til I went out this weekend and was stranded. Tested the alt with my voltmeter and sometimes its 14 and sometimes the battery drops below 12. I charged the battery up overnight and its holding a good charge. I REALLY dont wanna drop this alternator out again so is there anything else I should check? Im getting the battery tested anyway.
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Just purchased a 2014 Yukon XL it is has a bit of hesitation upon acceleration. Did not think much about initially but it is a bit bothersome. I have an 02 Suburban and never had that issue. I did also notice the same issue when test driving a 2014 Suburban.
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Took 06 GS300 to dealership for no start. They say it might be the starter and replaced it, and it wasn't the starter. Frustrated, I pulled it from the dealership, took it to a mechanic i have a little faith in. He was unsuccessful. He mentioned that he was able to get it to start briefly, but quickly died. I guess he bypassed alot of electrical stuff.
Everything seems fine, until I press the ignition and get nothing. No warnings, nothing. One thing to note, I had a problem keeping the negative battery terminal on. After a great deal of use, it would slightly slip off the battery, so i would have a dead car. I would just tighten and drive on, then it would slip again. I say cause I think maybe something got zapped.
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I have a brand new 2012 BMW 650, production date Nov 2011, and took delivery in December 2011. The low oil light indicator came on at 3300 miles 4 months later. Took it to the dealership and I reported to the service advisor that the car had a clanky (like a fan was hitting it's surrounding metallic covering) noise for 1-2 seconds on cold start and then disappears. I also told them that there was excessive soot noted on the passenger side exhaust tip. I was told by the dealership that this was normal oil consumption.
The dealership put in one quart of oil and told to monitor the oil consumption. At near 6600 miles and 3 months later the low oil light indicator came on again. Took it back to the dealership and the service advisor told me everything was normal and again added another quart of oil. The odometer is now at 8500 miles and the oil level indicator shows half full at 1900 miles later. I keep my cars for a long time and the first oil change is at 15,000 miles. I am sure I don't want to mess with adding a quart of motor oil every 3-4 months. I would not have bought this car if I was told or made aware that this was normal oil consumption.
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Just took my brand new GX460 with 1000 miles on a road trip. I found the vehicle drifts heavily to the right, so much so that I have to even hold the steering wheel several degrees to the left to make the car go straight. I drove my other cars on the same road and they are not as bad and generally go straight. Is this possible? Can a new SUV of this price come out of the factory misaligned?
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I purchased a brand new 09 LS 460 a few weeks ago - it is an amazingly beautiful car and a joy to look at.
Unfortunately, I think I have the dreaded wind noise problem, as there is very noticeable wind noise above about 65 mph - it gets pretty bad when it is really windy outside.
I love driving the car and have a long daily commute - however, this issue it starting to bother/annoy me and I find it takes away from my enjoyment.
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Did a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.
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I paid for brand new injectors and when i took them out today they all had dings and small gouges in the plates,is this normal?they are 180/100 cc
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
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I had a new clutch put in my '94 civic a few months back during the engine rebuild. I'm anal about saving gas so I tend to shift a bit early, not enough to make the engine chug, but I might shift into 3rd gear at 17 mph. Never had a problem with it. Since the rebuild, when I do shift earlier, the car has hiccups where there is little or no power for a half to full second. The engine will sputter for a bit until I get up into normal operating range. But it's not like before, I'm shifting no earlier than I have been for the last 6 years and have never dealt with this before. The rpm's don't shoot up so I don't think it's actually slippage.
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