Kia - Spectra :: 2005 - Speedometer Works Intermittently
Sep 16, 2014
My speedometer stops working when the car warms up. I've taken it to be looked at but it does not "throw any codes" . I've looked at forums and see that this seems to be a common problem. It appears replacing sensors does not work based on the forums. One says a fix is "THERE IS A SHORT WITHIN THE WIRING HARNESS. I had to slice the signal wire at the sensor then through the firewall and spliced in to the signal wire at the instrument cluster. IT WORKS GREAT NOW" which I don't understand. If I tell this to a mechanic would they understand?
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What could be ready to go south and what kind of money?
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The speedometer on my car works intermittently. When I accelerate and release I hear a loud clicking noise and my speedometer and rpm stop working. It will jump from different speeds dropping to zero. Is my speedometer on its way out or could it be something else?
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2005 Scion xA 127,000 miles
Problem started with speedometer not working occasionally. Now it works about 75% of the time. Often if I park for several minutes and restart the car the speedometer will work again. Sometimes after I start the car at first it won't work. Then I hear a click and a whir and it works.
Recently the gas gauge has been failing occasionally. I start the car and the needle doesn't move. I restart the car immediately and it works.
Only once the tachometer didn't work at first. Then the needle jumped up suddenly. I found at least 14 possible causes online:
1. Relay
2. ECU
3. Loose wire or connector in cluster
4. Speed sensor
5. Fuse
6. Gauge
7. Electrical short––recalibrate speedometer
8. Faulty speedometer head
9. Bad transducer
10. Dirty connection
11. Body control module (BCM) hung up
12. Bad ground
13. Bad stepper motor
14. Bad alternator diodes
QUESTION 1: Given that the problem has gotten worse over time, it's intermittent, and now two gauges are involved, what's the most likely cause?
QUESTION 2: A garage told me it's illegal to buy a used instrument panel and have the odometer reset. Is that true?
QUESTION 3: If not illegal, what's the cheapest way to get a reliable IP and get it reset? I can't afford a new cluster at a dealer.
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Just want to make sure I'm naming the part correctly. It's a pump that between the radiator and the block. It stays on after the car is turned off. This is on a 2005 GLI 5 speed tip.
Lately, its not turning on. If it does, it's just for a brief moment and then turns off. After some searching, I've read post of other asking about by-passing it. Would that be a benefit? What's gained from that? I understand the pump is on while the engine is running, does it provide additional cooling? I'm planning on checking it out this weekend and wondering if it could be rebuilt? Could you guys indicate which vendor on the web has the best price?
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I have a 2005 kia spectra that the driver side door from inside will not open. I can open from outside and use remote to unlock door. I have successfully removed the cable that was broke. I am perplexed as to what part I need to order. The cable is green in color. It is the cable that goes from the door latch to the handle on the inside, I think it is this part # not sure. Their also is a right . Their are 2 cables one is for the lock it self and the other is the door handle. I am not sure if I need the control cable.
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My speedometer no longer works. A mechanic had the dash out but said I would need a new instrument cluster. However, as I told him, it started failing whenever it rained. Once the car dried out, the speedometer would work again. For awhile anyway but now it's not working at all. I'm thinking there's a sending unit maybe on the transmission that's faulty?
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I have a 2000 Winnebago RV on a Ford F53 chassis. Recently, I turned the vehicle off and found that the speedometer was stuck at 40. After opening the dash in an attempt to investigate the instrument cluster, it dropped back to 0. However, upon moving the truck again, it jumps back to 40. Once I accelerate up to highway speeds, It begins to work properly above 40. Now it sounds just like every other broken cluster post I've seen, but here's where it becomes different:
When I stop somewhere, and its still at 40, I can flip the dash up and it immediately drops to 0 and stays normal until I move again. It then works until about 10, then shoots up to 40 again, and stays there until I hit 40, at which point it resumes working. Once I get below 40 again, it stays at 40 until I stop and flip the dash up.
I assume there must be a wire crossing that I am pulling apart by lifting the dash. However, there is a mess of wiring down there, and I don't have a clue how to find where it is crossing, assuming that's the problem.
Before the problem was discovered, I made three electrical changes, though I can't imagine why they would affect the speedo.
1. I rewired the trailer plug. I wasn't sure why, but I had no power coming to my running light wire in the towing harness. I couldn't figure out why that wire was dead, so I just tapped one of the tail lights and wired the trailer plug.
2. I replaced my backup camera. The old Sony began to flash, so I just ran the new camera wire under the frame and behind the dash. I wired the monitor to the existing cables that the old one was connected to.
3. The chassis battery somehow died while driving. It was slow to start in the morning when we left, and about seven hours later, I shut the vehicle down at a camping world and when I went to leave, nothing. Somehow the battery was down to 6 volts, which I have never seen before. Long story short, new battery and it started up and has been fine besides that speedometer thing.
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1996 Sport Trac. Cruise control works. Speedometer works for one mile or so mornings only. New sending unit in transfer case. What's up?
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord DX 5 speed. As it was turning to 208,000 the odometer froze up. This was in mid April. The speedometer still works but the 2 mileage readings quit. About a week later it began to work for 9 miles, then froze up again. I called 3 mechanics. They said it was the speedometer cluster & that he would need to put a search out for the part because it was a rare part for my car. That was 2 weeks ago. Last week my odometer began working as though nothing happened and has been fine. If and when I ever hear back about the part what should I do? Go ahead and get it fixed or just say "If it ain't broke don't fix it?"
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Okay, I have checked the clutch issue and I have read the sticky damper door thread but, non of these seem to fit my problem? The a/c blows cold when it has a mind too but, in a mere few seconds it will blow like you turned the temp control to boil. go a little while then the a/c blows ice cold again. The compressor never misses a beat on the the back and forth.
I am headed out with the family for a 1500 mile trip in two weeks and a/c would keep the masses happy!
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My radio works only intermittently. It may pop on a minute or so after starting the car, it may come on immediately or it may not come on and the digital display does not even light. What is strange is that the clock appears to be keeping time even when nothing appears to be working. It may work for a day or two then not work for a day or two. I have pulled it out of the dash to check connections in the back and they appear to be okay. I find this rather baffling. It is a Ford Ranger with a factory installed radio..
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First it wouldn't turn on, at times now it at times won't work even though the light is on, on the dash. At other times it works as expected. I dun think it's the 12V battery, because when only the center console is on in diagnostics the battery reads 12.2-12.4 and 14.5 + when the engine is on.
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2006 Prius with 58,000 miles. Drive in San Diego and Palm Springs. Earlier this year, the A/C would just cut off, maybe about once a week. The control panel indicated the A/C should be on, but absolutely no function. Drive around for 20 minutes, and all of a sudden, it would come on and work perfectly. It is starting to happen on a daily basis now...sometimes it won't work from start, other times it just cuts out while driving. I can park the car and shut the car off with the A/C working, then come back 30 minutes, and no A/C. It doesn't seem to matter which setting is selected. The control panel accepts all commands, but no function changes when the A/C has shut itself off. Loose connection somewhere? It works about 90% of the time, and blows very cold. When it shuts itself off, no air passes through the vents at all.
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One day off the lot, and my new PriusV touch screen works intermittently. Problem resolves it self when power is cycled in the vehicle. Should we request a new head unit?
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A couple weeks ago my AC started to blow just hot air. I went to Autozone, picked up a can of AC Pro, emptied the can without overcharging the line, it ran great for 3 days, then it shut off. I thought all the freon leaked out but the next day the AC system came back on. Now it sometimes comes on and off.
I took it to my mechanic. When I first told him the issue, he came back telling me that the AC system was fine. I drove home and as I was about a few miles from my house the AC stopped working. The mechanic said they did see it leaking but to come back a few days once the dye marks the problematic area.
Should I have not used AC Pro? I did not get any error codes when I ran the AC diagnostic. Turning on/off the AC manually does not seem to work. Changing from recirculation to outside air does change much. Revving the engine does not produce cooler air.
I'm not an expert, could there be bubbles in the line causing this behavior? I'm taking my car back in tomorrow morning. I'm hoping the AC stays off so my mechanic can troubleshoot this issue. Sounds like maybe the AC is having a hard time staying on? Bad sensor?
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I have a 2002 and i just recently started having a problem with my turn signal. It seems that when its hot outside, my turn signals wont work, left or right signal. could it be the fuse, or would it be within the steering wheel.
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As my title explains I've been having some strange electrical glitches that are annoying me. I checked the Door Fuse and it's fine. I was going to pull the + Terminal on the battery for 15minutes to try and reset the ECU to see if that fixes this bug. It's pretty strange and I'd like to fix it.
Also, I'm I right about just pulling the + terminal on the Battery to reset ECU? I did this once before a while ago but don't remember. I just remember I didn't have to unlock the stereo or anything which I've seen mentioned can happen after a power cycle.
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The trunk light works intermittently. It will run fine for about 45 seconds, then shut off for 10-15s, and cycles... Sometimes it stays on forever, sometimes it cycles on and off all at once about every minute or two. Or sometimes it only shuts off once, runs fine. Then only when i close and open the door again can i get it to then shut off again in ~45 seconds.
Finally got out the voltmeter and figured out where it's coming from. It's the diode that's attached to the trunk light.
Why is a diode there? Why a diode would behave that way? or is it possibly a solder joint? I still have my standard incandescent bulb in there.
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I inherited my Mother's 2000 Corolla CE with low mileage. I know that since the car was knew, she had the dealer check on why the horn did not blow every time she pressed it. I do not have those repair papers, so I do not know what they did to the car. Again, after each of 3 visits to the dealer, the horn would work for a few months. Finally, she gave up. Arizona does not test the horn, anyway. So, now, I am having the problem. (Also in my V90 Volvo post). Two cars with no horns.. Short of pulling out the air bag and the wires? Bad ground somewhere?
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I have a 99 Passat 4 cyl turbo and the cruise control seldom works. Sometimes it works, sometimes not, and sometimes it shuts itself off. What could be the problem?
VWFahrer
85 Jetta Diesel
93 Eurovan
99 Passat
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