Kia - Spectra :: 2004 - Air Conditioning And Heat Will Not Come On
Mar 24, 2011
I have a 2004 Kia Spectra (it is actually a 04/05 split year that generally takes the 05 parts) and when we turn on the car, sometimes the air conditioning/heat doesn't work. I can feel a little cold/warm coming out, but when I turn it higher nothing blows out at all. I can sometimes get it to work properly after driving for like 5 minutes on the highway with the radio off. Other times it turns on right away, but if I stop at the store and turn off the car, the next time it will stop working. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2003 GMC Envoy XL. There isn't any heat or air conditioning coming out of the overhead vents. My mechanic tells me it is a control head module. I would like to try and fix this myself. I don't know where this module is located on the vehicle. It seems I could just remove the defective one and replace it with a new part. Are these modules easy to find in part stores and how expensive is this part?
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I have a 2004 Kia Spectra EX (2.0L Engine) that has begun to sputter and hesitate when I am accelerating, regardless of whether I am accelerating from a standstill or on the highway. It feels like the engine is either not getting enough gas, or that the air/gas mixture is not correct. The car has almost 150,000 miles and we have recently (within last 10,000 miles) changed the spark plugs and air filters. Where to begin looking? The car, from what I can find, does not have a PCV; otherwise, that would be my first suspicion.
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2004 - Kia spectra... Car is parked and not running, and in morning go out to car inside is frozen, inside windows of car freezes.. What could be causing it
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I drive a 2004 Kia spectra (base model) w/ 93k
My clutch would start out fine as I start the car, but after pressing on the clutch pedal for about 40-60 times on one trip, it'll start to loose pressure & becomes stickier. And as I press on the clutch pedal more & more, the problem gets progressively worse to the point where I have to manually pull the clutch back up with the tip of my foot.
I also notice that when I drive with the air conditioning, the problem would precipitate earlier & clutch response deteriorates much quicker. But when I let the car rest for a couple of hours or overnight, the clutch response would slowly return, and eventually be normal again.
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2006 Prius with 58,000 miles. Drive in San Diego and Palm Springs. Earlier this year, the A/C would just cut off, maybe about once a week. The control panel indicated the A/C should be on, but absolutely no function. Drive around for 20 minutes, and all of a sudden, it would come on and work perfectly. It is starting to happen on a daily basis now...sometimes it won't work from start, other times it just cuts out while driving. I can park the car and shut the car off with the A/C working, then come back 30 minutes, and no A/C. It doesn't seem to matter which setting is selected. The control panel accepts all commands, but no function changes when the A/C has shut itself off. Loose connection somewhere? It works about 90% of the time, and blows very cold. When it shuts itself off, no air passes through the vents at all.
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I just found out that the air conditioning compressor is broke in my 2006 prius and its going to cost $1800 to fix it.. I am not in the loop here but that seems ridiculously high. I mean i save money at the pump but all that money just went out the door if i get this repaired. I am really contemplating trading the car in rather than deal with that expense..
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I have a 2008 that I bought brand new, it now has about 60,000 miles on it and the air conditioning is not cutting it in the Chicago summer. Would it now be time to have it recharged? Is there modification to make it more powerful?
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Classic (Malibu). Every summer, the air conditioning button dies (the button that you push to turn the air conditioning on and off). We'll have the air conditioning running, and it will start turning itself off and on again, and keep flickering back and forth. The fan keeps blowing, but it's hot. I've taken it in, and the mechanics have replaced the button, I think. It usually works the rest of that summer, but then the next summer starts dying again.
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I have a 2006 F150 4.6 175,000 miles in pretty good shape and well maintained. Lately, the A/C has acted weird. When I first turn it on, it blows air, but the air does not chill until I have a pretty good RPM going. Then it's fine. Once it starts chilling, it's good to go even when RPM is low (like at a red light). It's just the initial acceleration.
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My A/C takes 10 minutes to kick in after turning on and then only works if the car is running at a stoplight or otherwise stationary. I've tried adding coolant and changing the cabin air filters.
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The AC in my F-150 Super crew Lariat 5.4 was just charged and works fine until the temp reaches ninety degrees, then it blows hot. What this could be?
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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Kia Spectra have a problem with coolant swishing around behind the dashboard? Any permanent repair for this? After having the coolant purged of air, it is quiet for, at best, 2 months.
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I just bought my kia from its first owner and love it. However, one of the first issues I came across was when I tried to turn the car off and the key stuck in the ACC position. I've had this happen nearly half the time I turn the key. My best fix for it is to turn the car back over and continue to try turning it off. Sometimes it needs a forceful turn to get it to work. I brought it to the dealership and they "couldn't duplicate it" but factored out it being an issue with the stealing deterrent the car has built in. My husband hasn't had issue with it either so now they are looking at me. I swear it happens a lot! I've tried turning the wheel, lifting the key in the process of the turn, being gentler with the turn, everything. It's still happening.
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I just replaced the ignition coil as recommended by the computer and the car ran fine for a few days. Now it starts missing about a mile after starting, for a while. Then it almost never misses after it is fully warmed up. The computer does not find any issues at this time.
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I have a 2004 KIA Spectra with an automatic transmission which now has slightly over 100k miles. It has been a very reliable car up until last year when it stopped shifting into third gear. It shifts easily from P to R to N to D, shifting easily to 1st and 2nd, yet when the speed is met to allow changing to 3rd it becomes neutral, slipping only back to second when the speed of the car slows. My question: Is this something electrical or mechanical?
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My wife has a 03 kia spectra that won't shift into 3rd gear[Automatic] when it's cold. The trans. filter and fluid have been change and it was fine for about 3 months until today. Talked to a dealer and they had no clue other than to get a new trans. The car has 105,000 mi.so I really don't wanna spend that much $ on it if I don't have to
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The shift indicator light is out on my Kia spectra 5. What it is actually? A bulb? A fuze?
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Changed the slave as a start hoping that's what's causing my gf's clutch to mess up every time it warms up. We bleed it and it was working great but spongy. We tried to rebleed with no tools just the pedal pump method and now have absolutely zero pressure unless u Manually push in slave cylinder but then nothing again once u pen the bleeder. We tried a vacuum bleeder too now but that's all we can get our hands on. Is slave in the master? If so how do we get it out.
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Last night while driving my battery light and bake light came on and stayed on. Nothing seems wrong at least not yet ( but they are warning lights) what it could be?
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