I was having problems starting my 2010 Kia Soul after adding gas. Didn't matter if I was filling it or just adding $10. No one knew what the problem was. I called a guy who used to fix my cars years ago and he immediately told me to go get a Canister Purge Valve. He put it in in under 10 minutes and my car starts every time now.
View 3 RepliesMy 2006 FSi Passat is having problem starting every time I put gas in it. It starts fine at other times only hard after adding gas. What could be wrong?
View 4 RepliesI bought my 2013 Kia Soul last October. There were times when it wouldn't start, and just seemed dead. It would start after a few tries, but one day, that didn't work either. I walked the battery to an auto parts place to get a new one, but when they tested it, they said it's full of charge. So, I walked back, put it in the car, and the car started. This happened a few more times, so I took it in for a new starter. They said nothing was wrong with the starter, so I paid the diagnostic and got in the car, but it wouldn't start for me to leave the repair shop.
So, they put in a new starter. I had no problems for a couple of months, but it's happening again. When it does it, everything shuts off, not just the engine, but the lights and everything. I have been lucky that the car is light and easy to push, so I can get it somewhere that it's pointing downhill. Once I get it rolling, everything comes back on, and I drive away. This seems like a common problem, because, when I was in college, I remember guys on my street who had cheap cars they had to start by rolling them. But, they had old beaters. Mine is only 3 years old. What is going on?
My 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
View 2 RepliesI have a Mazda 3 5-door and I believe it is a 2010 model year, with between 50k-70k miles. I've been, I believe, consistent with regular maintenance schedules, and this is the first issue I've had, and I've been having it for a bit of time now (a few weeks). I've tried various things to try and understand the issues that bring it up.
First, I don't remember if this started before or after, but my "Check Engine" light popped on. I brought it in to have the code read and it was the one for the gas cap not being on properly. The person reset the diagnostic code, tightened the cap, and I went on my way.
A few hours later it came back. Okay, but that's not the issue, and I mention it only because of the other things I've observed.
The real problem is, after I've been driving for "awhile" at highway speeds, and I add fuel, the car has a very difficult time starting. I have to really press the accelerator down to get it to start, and even then it can take a good 5 seconds of holding the key to "start".
Things I've noticed:- If I fill up at the start of a trip, so that the car hasn't been running long, I can fill up and the car starts immediately.- I thought it might be a problem with fuel spilling over into the overflow, so I've added less fuel (so I ended with the needle pointing between 3/4 and full) but it still had trouble starting- After I start it, it runs rough for a bit and I feel like I have to rev it to keep it from stalling, though I haven't left it to idle to see if it actually will stall.- After the difficult start, if I drive as little as down a city block, turn the car off, and back on, it has no trouble starting, nor does it stutter like it does when I fill it up.- If I take a long drive but don't add any fuel, it starts up right away.
I've always used 87 octane fuel, which seems to work fine, and I feel as though that's the recommended grade, isn't it? I also try to fill it up when the needle reads 1/4 of a tank or a bit more, but I do notice that, if I allow the pump to auto-shutoff the car will accept 9-10 gallons (and I thought it was a 10.5 gallon tank, which is less than 1/4 left... I'm not sure how bad that is...)
What it could possibly be? Or even additional tests I could try to narrow it down?
On a 2010 XLT F150 supercrew, how hard would it be to add a remote start to it. I would like a factory type system, especially i can operated my keyless entry. How much am I looking at? and does the truck stay running when you open the door.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2012 Kia Soul with 27,000 miles and the clutch needs replacing. I've driven standard transmission vehicles for 45 years (sad to say) and have never had a worn clutch. How can I tell if the original clutch truly is worn or is defective? This is rather critical if it's the former (i.e. worn), I'm out $1400.00; if it's defective, the manufacturer pays.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
I've had an intermittent problem on my DSG GTI. It will crank about 5 - 10 seconds before it turns over. It doesn't happen all the time. I've also noticed it stalling out after start up occasionally.
After several trips to my lame dealer they can't find anything wrong or duplicate the problem.
My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
View 3 Replies2010 Corolla set for a week I went to use it and it would not start it would turn over but not start. I don't think it was the battery because it would chug for a few seconds miss/hiccup then die after trying 8 times it finally started you could smell fuel and the rpms where at 2000 but went back down after it warmed up.
After it started I had the check engine light, vsc off and slip indicator light on when I parked the car I had no issues.
How can this happen by setting for a week in a garage? There's no animals to chew on anything. In the past the car has been hard to start if it set for a week similar to what happened today but never as bad and no check engine lights.
I turned the car off and on and now it starts fine and seems to run ok but all 3 lights are still on. The oxygen sensor on bank 1 was replaced almost a year ago.
I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 which lately has been having difficulty starting on chilly days. That's saying something considering i live in Memphis, where the cold days are relatively mild. Sometimes it will hesitate on turning over, start and then my gauges flutter and the car shakes a little. Other times it makes a high pitched cranking noise. I haven't taken it anywhere yet because it seems to exclusively happen in the morning after the car has been sitting for 10 hours.
View 4 RepliesI recently noticed that the high beams on my car are actually pretty dim (38k miles with them.) I've looked online and it seems fairly easy to change out the bulb but I wanted to know if there any specific bulb brand recommended and also I wanted to know how to add fog lights since I live in a part of the country where it snow alot and its foggy in the summer.
View 14 RepliesI have an RCD-510 (touchscreen with no Nav) in my 2010 wagon. I have the AUX in the center counsel but want to add the iPhone adapter in the glove box. I'm having issues with VW by me. They cannot figure out what I need. They took it apart once and said there was no hook for the iPod cable. Also, I talked with VW headquarters and they said they wouldn't recommend trying to do it as I'd need new wire harnessing and a new "panel.". I was very confused by the panel comment. What is the part number I would need them to order?
View 9 RepliesThe factory stereo in my Elantra 2015 sedan does not have bluetooth and the steering wheel does not have the audio controls on the left side. I want to replace the factory stereo with a bluetooth stereo and add audio controls to the steering wheel. If I get the same audio controls that are on Elantras with bluetooth will they work? Is the wiring or wiring harness present for the audio controls? Would the car computer have to be reprogrammed?
View 31 RepliesLooking to put dual exhaust on my 2010 F150. Which muffler. Flowmax or Magnaflow. Do not want it very load. Looking a little smooth churn like the Mustang. As you know ford is very distinctive and I want it to be heard to some degree.
View 14 RepliesOk, quick info on my car, 2006 2.0t, 76k miles. I'm all caught up on recalls, and just replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs last week.
Anyway this has been happening for a few months now. Whenever I add fuel to the car (1 gal or a full tank and everything in between) It won't start immediately after. It almost acts flooded at first, just chugs a few times, I have to attempt to start it 2 or 3 times then it'll run rough for 3-4 seconds and then be all fine. No other issues till the next time I fuel up. I do have a light on throwing a code about my cooling system but I need to get someone with a vag con to read it..
Last week during a cold spell in New Orleans the TPMS light went on in my 2010 Hyundai Accent. I checked all of the tires, 2 were slightly low and I added air. However, the light is still on and it has been several days.
View 3 RepliesOn the wiring diagram, it looks like the ground point 397 should be the one right next to the Kessy module. The one by the heater should be ground point 634. Does it matter or am I wrong?
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