Kia - Sorento :: 2006 - RPMs Go Up To 4000 And Stay For A While
Oct 21, 2014
2006 Kia Sorento Auto Transmission, Appx. 106k miles. My wife's car so I don't drive this very often. However, on the last trip, I noticed that it would stay in a particular gear longer than (I think) it should. The RPM's will go up to maybe 4000 or so and stay there for a while even if I let my foot off the gas before finally kicking into overdrive or the next gear and back to a comfortable cruise. I notice this mostly happened when I was going highway speeds and either passing someone or going up a hill. I can't think of the last time the transmission fluid was changed, so I'm thinking that may not be a bad place to start...
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I have a 2006 Sorento, Idle at start, when cold is 2000 to 2200 rpms. When engine warms idle comes down to normal, 1000.
Replaced several vacuum lines, none showed any leaking but replaced to be sure.
Replaced the PCV valve, the old valve was not closing as it should and the replacement seemed to work some.
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and checked the old one for movement, moved an 1/8 of and inch from when cold to when hot. The new IAC did improve the problem some.
Tested throttle position sensor voltage, was good through range of motion (including being tapped on to simulate the running of the engine).
Sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine when cold to look for a possible manifold leak, nothing noted.
Noticed one area that brings down the high idle when sprayed with carburetor cleaner is in the front top center, around a small plastic cylinder which is part of the intake system and has a vacuum manifold which changes the position of the cylinder with engine operation. I have two pictures of the area attached, the white cylinder is at end of paint stick, the vacuum manifold is to the right of the paint stick and yes there are vacuum lines not hooked up in the pictures. Hoping this is not a manifold leak.
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I have a 2006 chevy malibu 2.2 ecotec 4 cyl with ~130,000 miles and i am experiencing the following symptoms:
Car will not rev past 4000 RPMs or go over 70mph. I do have a check engine light with the following two codes: P0068(throttle position) and P0420(cat efficiency)
My question is instead of just replacing the cat where can i take my car (i live in tulsa, ok) to have the cat and the sensors checked before they are written off as bad?
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So I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
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I have a '96 Saturn SL with a 1.9 SOHC. I recently removed the engine and transmission to change the clutch. I also changed the timing chain guides, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals and motor mounts. After I put it back in, it revs to 3500-4000 rpms and is very rich (so rich it smokes). I replaced the throttle position sensor since it had a crack at the plug and to see if that was the problem. I have looked at everything again and nothing is jumping out at me.
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I just installed a boost gauge and drove the car a little and this is the readings I get. It starts off with 20 inHg and to normal street driving it goes up to 0 and down. However when I pushed it a little, the maximum reading I got was 11-13PSI (High RMP-almost redline). I am a noob in this boost department so Is this readings really accurate or is there something wrong? Recently i had some transmission work done. And since then the gas pedal feels heavier. I was convinced that it is from the new bushings but I feel like this is boost related. Because at 4000 RPM sometimes It suddenly looses the boost (Kick).
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I've had a weird problem pop up within the past few weeks. My engine seems to have a noticeable whine above 4000 RPMs. It sounds almost like a supercharger whine, but my engine is completely stock. Possible problems I found online include exhaust leak, vacuum leak or tensioner issue for the belts.
Another issue I have had is that whenever shifting into second gear, I have some difficulty getting it into second gear. It makes a scraping sound as though the clutch is not disengaged all the way. On occasion, I have also had the shifter kind of pop second gear out when continuing onto third or even feel like it is rejecting second gear sometimes. A friend of mine told me that the scraping sound is normal and, "that's just how manuals are." Doesn't seem normal to me especially since it is every time I shift to second gear.
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I am hearing a rumbling noise when I hit 4000 rpms on all gears worst in 2nd and 3rd.... I just recently replaced the timing belt, TBA Done, valve cover gasket, and passenger side axle (through raxles). Anyways I started hearing noise after those repairs, my mechanic has gone through all the work recently done and cant find the problem..... We replaced the tranny mount thinking it was that, but no luck.... I have not lost boost, and noise starts 4000k and goes away at 4700k No codes are flashing.
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My timing belt went out a few months ago and it damaged the heads so I've basically rebuilt the entire top end of the engine but now that I've got it back together it is backfiring when I give it gas. It idles just fine...no misses...just backfiring and has very little power. I have found what looks like honey comb material on the ground under the tail pipe. Am I looking at a bad converter or something else?
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Is this normal for the Camry? When you're flooring the car besides the typical roar I hear like a small high pitch noise, it's gone once I let go of the gas. I tested it & start to hear it at about 4000RPMs I believe. Recorded it on video but you can't hear it at all on video.
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I have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
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My VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
[URL] .....
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My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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Two days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
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My crankshaft pulley sheared off in kia dealer now is this covered under 100000 mile powertrain warranty. I have 88000 miles on it. Heard this is a common problem with the Sorentos.....
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Just started yesterday. Transmission makes a loud clicking noise when put into reverse or drive, once car is driving it shifts fine throughtout the gears. Only happens when car is started up everytime
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I own a 2006 mustang v6 manual. I have never had a problem with my vehicle but my wife was hit from behind and now it makes a rattle under the car when I let off the gas or rev the engine. Well, tonight it worked fine on my way home but when I got back in the car to drive I noticed the car tach when I rev will not go over 4000 rpm and will bounce. When I drive it's like there is no power to accelerate (sputter cuts in and out) and I really can't go past 25-30 mph. After I reved the engine at the said 4000 rpm bounce for a few seconds there is a odor (unknown smell but almost a burnt smell)
The strange rattle metal sound Seems like it is coming from under the car about the drivers/passenger seats, but who knows. It's just my observation. Tranny is shifting into gears fine and idel is fine
I'm gonna look at it tomorrow. I need some direction on where to start
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I own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.
Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.
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92 PA Base, 141,000 mls
Whenever I have to drive for more than 50 - 75 miles or for one hour at a constant speed, the engine causes the car to buck and loose acceleration. When I press the gas pedal down to the floor, the rpm's stay at zero or when I lightly press the gas pedal, it would accelerate but with noticeable hesitation and difficulty. I go from maintaining speeds of 70 miles down to 40 miles. It also feels like no fuel is getting to the engine. This causes me to pull over for a few minutes, shut the engine off, and then its okay to drive for a few more miles.
I replaced the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. When I changed the MAF, I noticed that the bottom portion of the old one where the little wires are, was broken. I really thought that was the issue but when I replaced it, it started doing the same thing. What should I check or replace next?
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In the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
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