My crankshaft pulley sheared off in kia dealer now is this covered under 100000 mile powertrain warranty. I have 88000 miles on it. Heard this is a common problem with the Sorentos.....
View 5 RepliesHow do I remove my Honda Element's crankshaft pulley so I can replace the water pump? How hard is this job?
Another question. After removing the wheel and some plastic and looking at the pump I wondered why my Honda manual says I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at all?
Had idler pulley, tens pulley, alternator and new belt replaced all within last 5k. Was just looking under the hood while it was running and notice the crankshaft pulley was wobbling. What is the best and worst case scenario?
View 1 RepliesOn a 96 ford escort 1.9 liter with automatic trans, after replacing the timing belt, how do you tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt when I only have hand tools? It needs 90 or 95 foot pounds but you can't tighten it because the crankshaft just turns around and I can't find a way to lock the crankshaft without causing possible damage to the pulley or putting stress on the new timing belt. I thought of taking out the starter motor and somehow blocking the flywheel but I don't want to cause any damage to the flywheel teeth. Is there a special tool or method to do this???????
View 9 RepliesHow to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
The crankshaft pulley on my 2001 Camry in no longer aligned with the other pulleys, so my alternator belt does not stay on...
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
View 1 RepliesI was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
Needing to do a timing belt on the Ranger I bought, the crankshaft pulley just feels it needs to be stubborn and not come off easy. I know the front pulley is pushed on and kept in place with a pin, however I think my puller may be too large to fit where it needs to be to pull it off. I want to say I am just pulling an pushing on the same part but not sure. This is my first 4banger vehicle and I have never ran into such a deal even with working on the heavy OTR diesels.
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform. Am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
Have a 1992 5.7 litre silverado with a screeching noise from the crankshaft pulley when engine is warm and idling. Noise goes away when engine is accelerated. Noise remains on crank pulley when serpentine belt is off pulleys. Did replace tensioner pulley, alternator, and idler pulley. No noise noted when started cold. Serpentine belt is only weeks old no signs of damage. No rough idle or performance changes noted just a annoying noise similar to a turbo but only when no torque is applied.
View 1 RepliesMy timing belt went out a few months ago and it damaged the heads so I've basically rebuilt the entire top end of the engine but now that I've got it back together it is backfiring when I give it gas. It idles just fine...no misses...just backfiring and has very little power. I have found what looks like honey comb material on the ground under the tail pipe. Am I looking at a bad converter or something else?
View 6 Replies2006 Kia Sorento Auto Transmission, Appx. 106k miles. My wife's car so I don't drive this very often. However, on the last trip, I noticed that it would stay in a particular gear longer than (I think) it should. The RPM's will go up to maybe 4000 or so and stay there for a while even if I let my foot off the gas before finally kicking into overdrive or the next gear and back to a comfortable cruise. I notice this mostly happened when I was going highway speeds and either passing someone or going up a hill. I can't think of the last time the transmission fluid was changed, so I'm thinking that may not be a bad place to start...
View 3 RepliesJust started yesterday. Transmission makes a loud clicking noise when put into reverse or drive, once car is driving it shifts fine throughtout the gears. Only happens when car is started up everytime
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Sorento, Idle at start, when cold is 2000 to 2200 rpms. When engine warms idle comes down to normal, 1000.
Replaced several vacuum lines, none showed any leaking but replaced to be sure.
Replaced the PCV valve, the old valve was not closing as it should and the replacement seemed to work some.
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and checked the old one for movement, moved an 1/8 of and inch from when cold to when hot. The new IAC did improve the problem some.
Tested throttle position sensor voltage, was good through range of motion (including being tapped on to simulate the running of the engine).
Sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine when cold to look for a possible manifold leak, nothing noted.
Noticed one area that brings down the high idle when sprayed with carburetor cleaner is in the front top center, around a small plastic cylinder which is part of the intake system and has a vacuum manifold which changes the position of the cylinder with engine operation. I have two pictures of the area attached, the white cylinder is at end of paint stick, the vacuum manifold is to the right of the paint stick and yes there are vacuum lines not hooked up in the pictures. Hoping this is not a manifold leak.
I have a 2006 Ford Fusion SE (2.3L 4-cyl.) 5-speed Manual, with 280,000 miles on it. It's been a great car with very little repairs, etc. I've noticed a little oil on the driveway - nothing big, but certainly consistent. At my last oil change, they told me I had a leak in the crankshaft seal and that I should take it to an engine shop. I'm not a 'do it yourself' kind of person when it comes to big repairs. I'd love to keep the car going another year... If I don't fix it, should I avoid oil changes? The leak doesn't seem bad and it doesn't drive any different.
View 4 RepliesI was attempting to open the underbody shield(s) to replace my transfer case fluid. Unfortunately, the front screw has sheared off. Part of the screw body is still inside, while the head fell off.
What to do? I was hoping they were more robust. Maybe that's how most screws are in the winter-exposed areas.
The 2 of the 3 screws holding my steering box on just sheared off at the threads when I was pulling into my parking spot. My steering has been stiff only when turning left and only when going slow for a couple weeks now. I've seen many posts on this, it seems the steering gear is mostly to blame.
But how would a bad steering gear cause the bolts to break? It must be binding on the steering somewhere else, right?
When I first started getting the stiff steering, I really thought it was my u-joints, the left front started making noise when I'm in 4x4. But when I jacked up the wheel, I could turn the u-joint freely when the wheel was at full lock. After that, I decided I was going to order a Redhead steering box, but now I'm not sure!
When I got my Prius, the volume knob didn't work, and I thought I could live with it. Steering wheel controls work fine except when I'm turning the wheel, then I have to chase the buttons. I really want the volume knob to function properly.
The post that inserts into the head unit volume receiving column is sheared off and stuck in there. I tried super-gluing it back together, but that didn't give me the slight bumpy sensation when I turned it. I thought it would at least depress, but not when it was superglued together. It won't pop in and out when I press on it when it was glued.
Preparing for a timing belt replacement on a 2007 elantra. well aware of how to remove the crank pulley and do the job. My question is this : once you have the nut off, does the crank pulley come off by hand or is a puller required? came off nicely wiggling it by hand on any accent i've done, but never done this particular job with the elantra.
View 4 RepliesThe idler pulley bearing of my 3.3l Sonata NF has become quite noisy, as though it is running dry. Does this necessitate a complete pulley replacement or can it be disassembled and the bearing repacked (or if necessary replaced). I am becoming concerned that the bearing may fail altogether soon.
View 11 RepliesI own a 2006 Kia Sedona which we bought brand new. Now after five years and 40,000 miles (we don't drive it much) it has developed a rattling noise by the top serpentine pulley. I am afraid this is where the timing chain is. I am not even sure if this vehicle has a chain or belt. Could either one of these be the problem?
View 15 Replies