Kia - Sedona - Mini - Van :: 2002 - Won't Start In Cold?
Jan 27, 2014
We are getting hit again here in Indy with harsh temps. So far this winter my 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van has handled it pretty well, until this morning. I went out to start it and it wouldn't. Well it finally did but took a while. Normally I get in turn the key and it starts. This morning I tried that it started then died. I tried to restart and it would turn over but not start. This continued for a few minutes until I had to pump the pedel and keep it depressed a little before it would start. Once it started I gave it a little gas and everything was okay and it ran just fine. What might have been the cause to this early morning cold starting issue?
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I have been told that my back brakes need replacing and the place suggested it would need to include replacing the drums. They wanted about $400 for new drums and pads and such. I have never in all the years I have owned a car had to ever have anything but pads replaced on any of my cars brakes. I have had the car checked a number of times and no one till this last place who was also replacing my front wheel baring said anything about needing new drums and such. If the drums were that bad would you not hear something or feel something while braking?
My car: 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van/149,000 miles on it, I got it with 135,000 on it and have not had any break work done to this point because I was told it wasn't needed.
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van with about 143,000 miles on it. It runs great outside of a noise I am getting from the rear driver side wheel. When ever I go over a bump I get a clank sound. Took it to the dealership and they told me it is due to shock, but that the shock is not bad. they said that a rubber piece on the shock and mounting area is missing and that the metal sound is coming from where that rubber piece would be. They took me and showed me and at the top of the shock where it attaches to the car there is no rubber and when they pushed the car up and down I could see the the two pieces of metal would hit and make the sound. The dealership said they saw nothing wrong with the shock itself and feel it is safe, however they were not sure how this rubber piece feel away.
Does this make any sense?
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I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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I was checking my oil the other day and when I removed the cap there was this whitish film stuff and gunk on it. This is the first time I have noticed this and was wondering what is it, what causes it and should I be concerned? My car is a 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van 6 cylinder with about 147,000 miles on it and it has had regular oil changes for the past year plus that I have owned it.
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When stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
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My 2002 Mini Cooper has been a faithful trooper since we bought it in 2002. It has carried me around at track days embarrassing faster cars at the track (pretty much anything else that shows up at a track day) due to its handling, picked up the groceries, and ferried the kids to countless activities in the last 12 years. It has just about 90K miles. Since this spring it has been giving the impression that is overheating after running for as little as 15 minutes. We've changed the thermostat, radiator and had the head off to replace the gasket and check it for warping.
We've also bled the system thinking it could be air trapped somewhere. My mechanic says that it isn't actually overheating - there is no fluid boil and it isn't using any coolant up. There are no leaks. He thinks it could be a bad gauge. I called MiniMania and they agreed that it is not overheating really and suggested that it is an electrical issue. They doubted it is the gauge and suggested running the engine at idle with the radiator cap off so I could check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer as the temperature gauge did its thing moving into the red.
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My CEL is on and according to Auto Zones code checker read a P0340 on my 2002 KIA Sedona with 160400 miles. It said Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction 1 or single sensor.
So what should I do now? Van is running as smooth as ever so not sure what I should do.
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona with the CEL on. I got the code and would like to clear it but Auto Zone who read the code said they were not permitted to clear it and highly recommend not clearing it. So is it bad to clear it and if not how can I do it myself?
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About a week ago while driving to work my engine sputtered a bit and the CEL came on and then went off. As I drove the sputtering reoccurred when I would accelerate from being stopped but went away when I got to higher speeds. Again the CEL came on. Next day I took it to the dealership who read a P306 code and was told it was an issue with the No. 6 cylinder. After driving a few more miles the sputtering stopped happening. The next day I got in, started the van and no more CEL. That was last Wed, and since then I have done over 150 miles of driving and no sputtering and the CEL has not come back on. Could I have just gotten some bad gas or something that caused the brief sputtering and CEL.
2002 Kia Sedona, 6 cylinder147,000 miles
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We are going through probably the overall coldest winter I have ever been through. I was wondering is it not out of the question for the cold to impact the power steering on a car. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and have noticed when starting out in the morning my steering is a bit more sluggish/stiffer and then has the day wears on it is back to it's normal self. It has depending on the temps out said taken a few minutes up to a half hour or so. I have never had this issue before, but again have never had to deal with so many sub zero nights and days in winter....
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My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and last night while driving home the light that for the gas gauge and temp gauge went out, the other dash lights are still working. How difficult is it to replace a dash board light and how do you find out how to get to this light bulb?
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Yesterday while driving to work I noticed my car sputtering when I began to accelerate and then the CEL came on. Well it did it some more yesterday afternoon but after sitting for about 7 hours while I was at work I drove it home last night without any issue. Then this morning drove around running errands and not one sign of sputter at all.
Stopped by the Kia dealership and they read the code which I believe was 306 and they said it was showing the number 6 cylinder misfiring/spark plug/wire problem. They said it could be a bad plug or wire or coil but wouldn't know till they looked at it which they will in about a week. But still driving and no signs of any sputter. What might have caused the temp sputter and code and how do I reset the CEL to see if the code goes off again?
Car: 2002 Kia Sedona Milage: 147,000Eng: 6 cylinder
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Took my 2002 Kia Sedona mini van in this past weekend to have it checked out do to the vibration in the steering wheel and sever left turn in my front end when I let go of the steering wheel. Luckily I found out that it just needs an alignment really bad and 4 new tires as all four have issues. None of the four are in "dangerous" condition but need to be replaced. Problem is the cost to replace all 4 and due the alignment is outside of my budget. I can do the front two and the alignment this coming weekend and replace the other two next month. My question is will not replacing the back two impact on the alignment?
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and one of the issues with this van is that the metal cooling lines that run from the engine area back to the back of the van heating core rust away and have to be replaced. Can you just cut those away and put like a u joint on it so that the anti freeze doesn't go back there and thus reducing the huge cost of replacing those lines? Yes I know that means no heat in the back of the van but I don't use the heat back there now and haven't through this past horrible winter. I am just trying to reduce the cost I am looking at for this repair that I know I am going to have to address in the coming months.
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona that I just had new drums, brakes and brake kit put on. The braking is fine, however I hear a clicking sound from the backend now when I apply the brakes when I just about come to a stop or lightly braking in my neighborhood. What is causing it and how dangerous is it?
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On my 2002 Kia sedona mini van my CC has stopped working. How do they work and what should I look at as reasons why it just stopped? I just had all the belts replaced and crank shaft sensor replaced, could any of that have played a role?
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My driver side front head light compartment continually has moisture inside of it. My question(s) are how does that happen, and is there a way to stop it without just replacing the entire unit? The head light works okay but figure that this can't be a good thing.
2002 Kia Sedona Mini Van6 cylinder147,000 miles
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I have a 2002 Mini Cooper I bought a year and a half ago. The last couple of months when I shut my car off I sometimes hear a buzz sound near the center console and my trip odometer resets to zero, and my LED clock resets to 12 Midnight. Sometimes it happens when you open the door after turning the car off. In the Mini's there is a feature that the windows automatically lower a 1/4 inch when you open the doors, allowing air to escape when you shut the door after exiting. When this happens, sometimes that triggers the "buzz" sound and the reset thing happens. This doesn't seem to effect anything else, its just bothersome because I keep track of my miles with the trip odemeter, and I have to keep correcting the clock. Oh Yeah! one more thing that happens, when i am using the Air Conditioner and slow down after full speed, there is what I would describe as a power surge. All the dash lights go off for a split second then come back on.
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My wife's van just had an issue. Of course this happens when I am about to go in a business trip. Let me start by saying that we have never had a problem with this van. It now has around 75,000 miles on it, and was last driven yesterday. We went to start it up this morning, and it was very difficult to get running. If you wanted to stall, (had to keep my foot on the gas and I could tell the motor was missing), but I'm more concerned with the metallic top end tapping the motor was making. It sounded like a bad valve tap so I turned the motor off , checked the oil level to make sure I did not leak the oil out (last checked three days ago when I got gas). The level was fine, so I started the motor again.. ran the same but this time cleared up and ran fine with in 10 seconds. The noise went away and it ran smooth as silk again. Turned it on and off a few times and it was fine each time. My wife is driving it now and says it feels fine. The motor it self is still under warranty but not the ignition or fuel parts.
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