Kia - Sedona - Mini - Van :: 2002 - Difference Between Back And Front Brakes?
May 15, 2012
I have been told that my back brakes need replacing and the place suggested it would need to include replacing the drums. They wanted about $400 for new drums and pads and such. I have never in all the years I have owned a car had to ever have anything but pads replaced on any of my cars brakes. I have had the car checked a number of times and no one till this last place who was also replacing my front wheel baring said anything about needing new drums and such. If the drums were that bad would you not hear something or feel something while braking?
My car: 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van/149,000 miles on it, I got it with 135,000 on it and have not had any break work done to this point because I was told it wasn't needed.
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We are getting hit again here in Indy with harsh temps. So far this winter my 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van has handled it pretty well, until this morning. I went out to start it and it wouldn't. Well it finally did but took a while. Normally I get in turn the key and it starts. This morning I tried that it started then died. I tried to restart and it would turn over but not start. This continued for a few minutes until I had to pump the pedel and keep it depressed a little before it would start. Once it started I gave it a little gas and everything was okay and it ran just fine. What might have been the cause to this early morning cold starting issue?
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van with about 143,000 miles on it. It runs great outside of a noise I am getting from the rear driver side wheel. When ever I go over a bump I get a clank sound. Took it to the dealership and they told me it is due to shock, but that the shock is not bad. they said that a rubber piece on the shock and mounting area is missing and that the metal sound is coming from where that rubber piece would be. They took me and showed me and at the top of the shock where it attaches to the car there is no rubber and when they pushed the car up and down I could see the the two pieces of metal would hit and make the sound. The dealership said they saw nothing wrong with the shock itself and feel it is safe, however they were not sure how this rubber piece feel away.
Does this make any sense?
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona that I just had new drums, brakes and brake kit put on. The braking is fine, however I hear a clicking sound from the backend now when I apply the brakes when I just about come to a stop or lightly braking in my neighborhood. What is causing it and how dangerous is it?
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Took my 2002 Kia Sedona mini van in this past weekend to have it checked out do to the vibration in the steering wheel and sever left turn in my front end when I let go of the steering wheel. Luckily I found out that it just needs an alignment really bad and 4 new tires as all four have issues. None of the four are in "dangerous" condition but need to be replaced. Problem is the cost to replace all 4 and due the alignment is outside of my budget. I can do the front two and the alignment this coming weekend and replace the other two next month. My question is will not replacing the back two impact on the alignment?
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Front and back brakes heating up and locking on intermittently brake pedal feels normal this has happened 3 times over the last 500 km of driving pedal not sticking down break fluid ok no swelled lines today noticed front left and rear right rotors were hotter than front right and rear left once vehicle sits they release and all is good no abs lights or any other warning lights on.
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I was checking my oil the other day and when I removed the cap there was this whitish film stuff and gunk on it. This is the first time I have noticed this and was wondering what is it, what causes it and should I be concerned? My car is a 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van 6 cylinder with about 147,000 miles on it and it has had regular oil changes for the past year plus that I have owned it.
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What is the difference between inner and outter tie rods?
When I look them up online they look the same.
What/which one is the inner, and what/which one is the outter?
On my truck, the part from the lower ball joint which I thought was the tie rod has a male part adapting to a bar on both sides.
It's a 1997 7.3L lifted F250.
any heads up on the difference between inner and outer tie rods on my rig.
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My 2002 Mini Cooper has been a faithful trooper since we bought it in 2002. It has carried me around at track days embarrassing faster cars at the track (pretty much anything else that shows up at a track day) due to its handling, picked up the groceries, and ferried the kids to countless activities in the last 12 years. It has just about 90K miles. Since this spring it has been giving the impression that is overheating after running for as little as 15 minutes. We've changed the thermostat, radiator and had the head off to replace the gasket and check it for warping.
We've also bled the system thinking it could be air trapped somewhere. My mechanic says that it isn't actually overheating - there is no fluid boil and it isn't using any coolant up. There are no leaks. He thinks it could be a bad gauge. I called MiniMania and they agreed that it is not overheating really and suggested that it is an electrical issue. They doubted it is the gauge and suggested running the engine at idle with the radiator cap off so I could check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer as the temperature gauge did its thing moving into the red.
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My CEL is on and according to Auto Zones code checker read a P0340 on my 2002 KIA Sedona with 160400 miles. It said Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction 1 or single sensor.
So what should I do now? Van is running as smooth as ever so not sure what I should do.
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona with the CEL on. I got the code and would like to clear it but Auto Zone who read the code said they were not permitted to clear it and highly recommend not clearing it. So is it bad to clear it and if not how can I do it myself?
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About a week ago while driving to work my engine sputtered a bit and the CEL came on and then went off. As I drove the sputtering reoccurred when I would accelerate from being stopped but went away when I got to higher speeds. Again the CEL came on. Next day I took it to the dealership who read a P306 code and was told it was an issue with the No. 6 cylinder. After driving a few more miles the sputtering stopped happening. The next day I got in, started the van and no more CEL. That was last Wed, and since then I have done over 150 miles of driving and no sputtering and the CEL has not come back on. Could I have just gotten some bad gas or something that caused the brief sputtering and CEL.
2002 Kia Sedona, 6 cylinder147,000 miles
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My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and last night while driving home the light that for the gas gauge and temp gauge went out, the other dash lights are still working. How difficult is it to replace a dash board light and how do you find out how to get to this light bulb?
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Yesterday while driving to work I noticed my car sputtering when I began to accelerate and then the CEL came on. Well it did it some more yesterday afternoon but after sitting for about 7 hours while I was at work I drove it home last night without any issue. Then this morning drove around running errands and not one sign of sputter at all.
Stopped by the Kia dealership and they read the code which I believe was 306 and they said it was showing the number 6 cylinder misfiring/spark plug/wire problem. They said it could be a bad plug or wire or coil but wouldn't know till they looked at it which they will in about a week. But still driving and no signs of any sputter. What might have caused the temp sputter and code and how do I reset the CEL to see if the code goes off again?
Car: 2002 Kia Sedona Milage: 147,000Eng: 6 cylinder
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and one of the issues with this van is that the metal cooling lines that run from the engine area back to the back of the van heating core rust away and have to be replaced. Can you just cut those away and put like a u joint on it so that the anti freeze doesn't go back there and thus reducing the huge cost of replacing those lines? Yes I know that means no heat in the back of the van but I don't use the heat back there now and haven't through this past horrible winter. I am just trying to reduce the cost I am looking at for this repair that I know I am going to have to address in the coming months.
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On my 2002 Kia sedona mini van my CC has stopped working. How do they work and what should I look at as reasons why it just stopped? I just had all the belts replaced and crank shaft sensor replaced, could any of that have played a role?
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I have a 2002 passat and i have a squeak coming the front end of my car when i decelerate (let off the gas and coast, at low speeds). The car is a 5 speed. From other cars I have had, it sounds like it is the ebrake, like it kind of sticks on a little bit. When I coast while in neutral it does not do it. It also does it when I am in reverse, like leaving a parking spot.
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My driver side front head light compartment continually has moisture inside of it. My question(s) are how does that happen, and is there a way to stop it without just replacing the entire unit? The head light works okay but figure that this can't be a good thing.
2002 Kia Sedona Mini Van6 cylinder147,000 miles
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02 Civic, 1.7L, 114K Found the front brakes sticking. I popped the bleeder open and got a little squirt out of the left side and a less of a squirt out of the right. I'm in the process of changing the pads which are on order from Rockauto. I took the existing pads off and lubed the pad guides/holding slots but I felt them starting to drag again after a short test drive. Also they did not seem to respond properly with normal braking. How would I test the caliper(s)? It's got to be a bad caliper or master cylinder causing this and I just don't want to throw parts at it.
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109K and runs great except for when accelerating from start to any speed. The front end acts likes the front wheels are slightly out of balance. Once you stop accelerating all is fine. Tires have plenty of tread and no I haven't rotated them to the rear which I might do?
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