Kia - Sedona :: 2006 - Won't Crank And Oil Milky?
Apr 17, 2015
2006 KIA SEDONA was running HOTT had it inspected and pressure tested (radiator shop & mechanic shop) no leaks found. A FEW DAYS AGO wouldn't crank checked oil IT WAS MILKY, drained radiator. Also drained engine oil first a gallon of anti freeze came out then the milky oil. Hopefully optimistic that it's not that serious. Am I wrong? what should I do next.
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I have a 2006 Kia Sedona which has done 57000 miles. For the last 2 weeks I have been having starting problem. When I turn the key there is no 'starting sound', the lights, radio and the AC start working but the engine does not start up at all. After several attempts and after keeping the key in 'ignition on' position the engine fires up and starts running.
It has been happening intermittently and fortunately for me it happened at the dealer and they are saying it is a short circuit in starter motor and the entire starter has to be replaced. It is covered by the warranty but I want to know if thats what is wrong. A friend of mine who had similar problems was saying that he had to replace starter 3-4 times before they discovered that a wire was defective which was not sending enough amps to start the engine. What to do.
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I have a 2006 Kia Sedona with about 85k on it. About 2 months ago it began not starting (no engine turn over whatsoever). I took it to the dealer and they could not get the problem to repeat. When I pressed the service manager he told me to "bang on the fuse box" while trying to start it. Oddly, that seems to work. Something about the power relay (I might have the terminology wrong here). Last week my (1 year old) battery died. Another Kia dealership also found nothing wrong with the van but also mentioned the power relay as a possible cause of the period non-starting but didn't think that could damage the battery. Car is yet again, not starting sometimes. Banging on the fuse box as per the first service manager still works but this is not a permanent solution. Don't want to spring for a new power relay (??) since they can't definitively diagnose that.
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I own a 2006 Kia Sedona which we bought brand new. Now after five years and 40,000 miles (we don't drive it much) it has developed a rattling noise by the top serpentine pulley. I am afraid this is where the timing chain is. I am not even sure if this vehicle has a chain or belt. Could either one of these be the problem?
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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I've notice a milky substance on my oil cap and inside the tube where you add the oil, what can be causing this. 2001 Silverado 5.3.
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I have a 2003 dodge neon, a couple days ago i hit a bump and bottomed out on the front bumper and pulled a transmission hoes. after repairing that my car is now over heating, i have replaces the thermostat and the upper radiator hose. i am not leaking coolant, i have talked to several people on this and they say that it is either my water pump or i have a vapor/air lock inside the block, when i was replacing the thermostat i noticed that my coolant was a milky tannish color and was "chunky" and that is what is making people say that it is an air lock. but my hear is not blowing hot air, that makes me believe that it is the water pump.. when i start the car it take the usual 10 or so minutes to reach normal temperature just like it did before all this, but then it shoots up to almost over heating in less than 5 or so minutes.. I am really stumped by this and i am a college student so i rally cannot afforded a mechanic unless absolutely necessary....
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Today I opened my oil fill cap while my truck was running to find a milky substance on it and then noticed lots of steam coming out of the oil fill. I assume this is a head gasket as I have hard miss at idle on cylinder number two and cannot get it fixed. So far I have replaced a plug hoping it would fix the problem, it did not. I also noticed my temperature gauge going from normal range all the way up to the hottest it can go. Is all this just a coincidence or am I looking at a blown head gasket? 1997 4.6L F150.....
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I have a 2004 Kia Sedona Van with approximately 107,000 miles. The last month, I noticed it seems between 38-48 MPH.You will suddenly feel a vibration like you ran over "wake up bumps" though not as rough. It has lasted a couple to maybe 5 seconds. The vibration may not happen but once a day or can happen couple times a day. There can be a couple of days that it does not do it. I had the front end check-tires and there was no problems.
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I was checking my oil the other day and when I removed the cap there was this whitish film stuff and gunk on it. This is the first time I have noticed this and was wondering what is it, what causes it and should I be concerned? My car is a 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van 6 cylinder with about 147,000 miles on it and it has had regular oil changes for the past year plus that I have owned it.
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I have a 2006 Sonata V6 it has a 100k miles and was running fine 2 days ago. I woke up this morning to turn it on to my surprise the car wouldn't crank. I no I was past due on a tune up so I went ahead and did a tune up upon completion the car still won't crank.
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I own a 2005 Kia sedona lx with roughly 105k miles on it. the van has been shaking at around 60mph and up. I went and got an alignment, a hub bearing, and the two front tires replaced, but the shaking is still there. it only appears when accelerating, and if i let off the gas and coast, it pretty much goes away.
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My CEL is on and according to Auto Zones code checker read a P0340 on my 2002 KIA Sedona with 160400 miles. It said Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction 1 or single sensor.
So what should I do now? Van is running as smooth as ever so not sure what I should do.
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I am working on this 2004 van for my sister.... It will idle fine.. when you drive you can get to 25 or so but won't go any faster even with foot to the floor... was thinking fuel filter but you have to buy the whole pump for this car?
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My Kia Sedona, 2006, has stalled on my approximately 6 times. Everything in the car works, lights, radio,... and yet the engine is locked out. Sometimes in 15 minutes I can start the engine again and other times no luck. NHTSA indicates there are electrical wiring system issues yet no one at Kia can figure it out. And no one will admit there is a problem.
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona with the CEL on. I got the code and would like to clear it but Auto Zone who read the code said they were not permitted to clear it and highly recommend not clearing it. So is it bad to clear it and if not how can I do it myself?
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About a week ago while driving to work my engine sputtered a bit and the CEL came on and then went off. As I drove the sputtering reoccurred when I would accelerate from being stopped but went away when I got to higher speeds. Again the CEL came on. Next day I took it to the dealership who read a P306 code and was told it was an issue with the No. 6 cylinder. After driving a few more miles the sputtering stopped happening. The next day I got in, started the van and no more CEL. That was last Wed, and since then I have done over 150 miles of driving and no sputtering and the CEL has not come back on. Could I have just gotten some bad gas or something that caused the brief sputtering and CEL.
2002 Kia Sedona, 6 cylinder147,000 miles
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It was the worst tonight that it has been in a while; I needed to crank the car 3 times to get it to start; mind you when it runs, it runs great.
With a bit of research, this is looking like a fuel pump/check valve problem. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent GS, would this mean I need to replace the fuel pump assembly?
If this is the case, I want to do a beta swap over the summer. If this works out, should I upgrade the fuel pump/does the fuel pump need to be upgraded? and if so, would the upgraded pump cause other issues?
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My wife's van just had an issue. Of course this happens when I am about to go in a business trip. Let me start by saying that we have never had a problem with this van. It now has around 75,000 miles on it, and was last driven yesterday. We went to start it up this morning, and it was very difficult to get running. If you wanted to stall, (had to keep my foot on the gas and I could tell the motor was missing), but I'm more concerned with the metallic top end tapping the motor was making. It sounded like a bad valve tap so I turned the motor off , checked the oil level to make sure I did not leak the oil out (last checked three days ago when I got gas). The level was fine, so I started the motor again.. ran the same but this time cleared up and ran fine with in 10 seconds. The noise went away and it ran smooth as silk again. Turned it on and off a few times and it was fine each time. My wife is driving it now and says it feels fine. The motor it self is still under warranty but not the ignition or fuel parts.
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This weekend I am going to replace my old power steering fluid in my 2002 Kia Sedona mini van. Every where I look on line it tells me to use transmission fluid. Is this right? When they sell power steering fluid why would you use transmission fluid? Also, which type of transmission fluid to use?
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On my 2002 Kia Sadona mini van I noticed about half way down a small button with the letters OD beside it. What does this mean and what does it do?
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