Kia - Sedona :: 2006 - Engine Does Not Start Up At All But Everything Work?
Jul 20, 2011
I have a 2006 Kia Sedona which has done 57000 miles. For the last 2 weeks I have been having starting problem. When I turn the key there is no 'starting sound', the lights, radio and the AC start working but the engine does not start up at all. After several attempts and after keeping the key in 'ignition on' position the engine fires up and starts running.
It has been happening intermittently and fortunately for me it happened at the dealer and they are saying it is a short circuit in starter motor and the entire starter has to be replaced. It is covered by the warranty but I want to know if thats what is wrong. A friend of mine who had similar problems was saying that he had to replace starter 3-4 times before they discovered that a wire was defective which was not sending enough amps to start the engine. What to do.
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I have a 2006 Kia Sedona with about 85k on it. About 2 months ago it began not starting (no engine turn over whatsoever). I took it to the dealer and they could not get the problem to repeat. When I pressed the service manager he told me to "bang on the fuse box" while trying to start it. Oddly, that seems to work. Something about the power relay (I might have the terminology wrong here). Last week my (1 year old) battery died. Another Kia dealership also found nothing wrong with the van but also mentioned the power relay as a possible cause of the period non-starting but didn't think that could damage the battery. Car is yet again, not starting sometimes. Banging on the fuse box as per the first service manager still works but this is not a permanent solution. Don't want to spring for a new power relay (??) since they can't definitively diagnose that.
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2006 KIA SEDONA was running HOTT had it inspected and pressure tested (radiator shop & mechanic shop) no leaks found. A FEW DAYS AGO wouldn't crank checked oil IT WAS MILKY, drained radiator. Also drained engine oil first a gallon of anti freeze came out then the milky oil. Hopefully optimistic that it's not that serious. Am I wrong? what should I do next.
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I own a 2006 Kia Sedona which we bought brand new. Now after five years and 40,000 miles (we don't drive it much) it has developed a rattling noise by the top serpentine pulley. I am afraid this is where the timing chain is. I am not even sure if this vehicle has a chain or belt. Could either one of these be the problem?
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My wife's van just had an issue. Of course this happens when I am about to go in a business trip. Let me start by saying that we have never had a problem with this van. It now has around 75,000 miles on it, and was last driven yesterday. We went to start it up this morning, and it was very difficult to get running. If you wanted to stall, (had to keep my foot on the gas and I could tell the motor was missing), but I'm more concerned with the metallic top end tapping the motor was making. It sounded like a bad valve tap so I turned the motor off , checked the oil level to make sure I did not leak the oil out (last checked three days ago when I got gas). The level was fine, so I started the motor again.. ran the same but this time cleared up and ran fine with in 10 seconds. The noise went away and it ran smooth as silk again. Turned it on and off a few times and it was fine each time. My wife is driving it now and says it feels fine. The motor it self is still under warranty but not the ignition or fuel parts.
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We are getting hit again here in Indy with harsh temps. So far this winter my 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van has handled it pretty well, until this morning. I went out to start it and it wouldn't. Well it finally did but took a while. Normally I get in turn the key and it starts. This morning I tried that it started then died. I tried to restart and it would turn over but not start. This continued for a few minutes until I had to pump the pedel and keep it depressed a little before it would start. Once it started I gave it a little gas and everything was okay and it ran just fine. What might have been the cause to this early morning cold starting issue?
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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My Kia Sedona, 2006, has stalled on my approximately 6 times. Everything in the car works, lights, radio,... and yet the engine is locked out. Sometimes in 15 minutes I can start the engine again and other times no luck. NHTSA indicates there are electrical wiring system issues yet no one at Kia can figure it out. And no one will admit there is a problem.
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About a week ago while driving to work my engine sputtered a bit and the CEL came on and then went off. As I drove the sputtering reoccurred when I would accelerate from being stopped but went away when I got to higher speeds. Again the CEL came on. Next day I took it to the dealership who read a P306 code and was told it was an issue with the No. 6 cylinder. After driving a few more miles the sputtering stopped happening. The next day I got in, started the van and no more CEL. That was last Wed, and since then I have done over 150 miles of driving and no sputtering and the CEL has not come back on. Could I have just gotten some bad gas or something that caused the brief sputtering and CEL.
2002 Kia Sedona, 6 cylinder147,000 miles
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I have a 2001 Kia Sedona mini van with about 148,000 miles on teh 6 cylinder engine. Since about the first of the year I have noticed a slight loss of engine oil over the past 4 months. It appears to be maybe about a quarter of a quart for about every 1000 miles or so. Up until then I had no issue with loss of oil. It is not leaking out that I can see as there are no drip signs on the underneath or ground, I have had no loss of antifreeze so am not sure how or where the oil might be going. My dad said that as some engines age and with this engine being now almost 11 years old with that many miles it wouldn't be out of line that the engine is "burning" the oil. Not sure what he means by that, but what might be a reason/s for the slight loss of oil.
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My 2006 has 121000 miles and started acting strange in March. I drove it to the dealer and it died. After the dealer ran the diagnostics test they gave the code for "bad cell 5" and "replace battery". The dealer wanted way too much so I had the car towed home and installed a rebuilt battery this week (my car set for almost 2 months). After putting in new battery it wouldn't start due to the 12v battery being dead. So I replaced the 12 v battery and now it still will not start but all of the displays work. I am getting the red triangle, the check engine light and the "exclamation in the car" on the main display. I don't know if this has any bearing on the problem but I did find the dealer had removed one of my spark plugs and left in under the hood. I re-installed it before attempting to start to car. Also, the water pump that has been recalled is still on my Prius and hasn't been replaced (would this effect the vehicle starting?
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I just bought a 2004 Kia sedona ex, it was running great when I got it, and it has 81000 miles. On the way home it kind of sputtered a couple of times, then the engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they said 2, 4, and 6 was misfiring. I called the dealer and they said that it was probably because I didn't click the gas cap three times. Could that be the cause or do I need to change the spark plugs or coil or something??
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It's been very hot for the past few weeks and I've been using my AC a lot. I've noticed that when the AC is on (4th setting, Max A/C), the engine works a lot harder when taking off from a stand still and going up hills. I can hear the engine struggling and I've often spotted the tach hitting close to 5,000 RPMs when taking off casually from a red light. It only does this with the AC on. I've recently replaced my engine and cabin air filters so I am ruling those out. Is it normal behavior?
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My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
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I have a 3.0 TDI Phaeton 2006.
One day when i tried to start it on morning it's spinning long time but cannot start. I connected a VAS and there was one ECU error of camshaft position sensor - signal not real. 2nd different thing that I have only communication with 3 modules - ECU, gearbox and dashboard.
I bought a new sensor and change it. No positive results - the same error. I decided to make new wires connection direct to the ECU so i take new wires and connect sensor directly to the ECU. It's also didn't take any effect - the same error.
After days in which I want to burn this car I decided to change shaft speed sensor (RPM sensor) - i took one from my mum's car - it is the same (A6).. There is no error on ECU but it doesn't start also. But now engine trying to start in different way - only 2-3 rotation of engine and stops (before changing shaft speed sensor it was spinning a lot times when trying to start).
I also turn off immo from ECU by BDM100 to be sure that there is no immo problem. How I can find reason why there is no connection with lot of modules ? I checked fuses in 3 places (in trunk, next to the driver legs, and next to ECU). Engine cannot start without communication with airbags but how to find problem with communication.
And the one small thing: before changing sensors when car was dead some injectors was clicking but rarely and not synchronized. After changing sensors (and no errors now) there isn't any noise (clicking) of injectors.
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I am having problems starting my 2009 Elantra sedan. There are no error codes.
I get into the car and turn the ignition and it sounds like it is about to catch but as soon as I let go of the ignition it stops.
I found that if I wait a few minutes and try and give the pedal a few vigorous pumps it will start to catch, but more often than not, I have to go through this procedure several times before it starts.
This started this winter about 2 months ago and is still happening even as the weather has warmed up.
Plenty of juice to turn it over. I have replaced the spark plugs at 100,000 km with iridium plugs. I currently have 160,000 km on it.
There is plenty of gas in the car. Sounds to me like the gas isn't getting to the engine.
Is there some systematic method that I could use to isolate the problem?
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I've Sonata 2006 and it's just fine no problems at all, until this problem comes. When I start the car the engine crank but not start, RMPs is jumping to 4 then into 0.. I checked fuel pump, battery and sparks all are good.
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Sometimes when I start my car, either after work or in the morning, I can feel the engine shaking. At times it does it after the engine is warm. Its the '06 3.3, I've had the car for 5 days now...
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I got a 2010 sonata, just outside of the warranty with 60,400 miles. as of today these problems arose out of nowhere. the husband had trouble starting the vehicle today and got a check engine light. someone came, jumped it, and was good to go.
Well he comes home on break after 20 mins & goes to start the engine again and it takes 2-3 times to actually start. it's seems to be more difficult the longer it sits; if you turn it off and start it again it's less hesitant. we then replace the old battery that happens to be bad as well, with a relatively new one from my car and have the same problem. no more check engine- but it's still hesitating.
Possible starter problem? is something loose?
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I went to leave work yesterday and my ICE would not come on. Several lights came on including the red triangle and the hybrid system warning light. The add fuel popped up on the display and then the fuel gauge goes from one pip to all ten pips flashing. I was not actually that low on fuel as lately the add fuel message has been popping up when I have about 4 gallons left. I wonder if the car just thinks I am out and so won't kick the engine on. There is no tension on the gas pedal.
A coworker had a diagnostic reader and did a reading. We got codes U0100, C1259, and C1310.
I replaced my 12V battery about two years ago and replaced my big battery 15 months/25,000 miles ago. I am at 133,000.
I did drive through some kind of high water a week ago. I didn't think it had an effect though, but possibly. I have been able to drive about 100 miles since then. However, I drove through the water, left the car at a friend's to go out of town, came back 5 days later. When I started my car after coming back, the engine kind of shook and made a strange noise. This lasted about 10 seconds. I drove home and it seemed fine for the next 100 miles.
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I have an 08 2.4L Sonata with 95000mi. When turning the ignition it will crank and sound like its about to start but won't. I was able to get it to start by pushing the gas pedal a bit when it sounds like it wanted to start. Once started, it ran rough and would stall unless I revved it above 1500 RPM. Still sounded like it occasionally miss fired.
I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
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