I am working on this 2004 van for my sister.... It will idle fine.. when you drive you can get to 25 or so but won't go any faster even with foot to the floor... was thinking fuel filter but you have to buy the whole pump for this car?
View 5 RepliesI have a Kia Sedona 2004 that got overfilled with oil. It foamed and now we have a stuck lifter. Worst case scenario is that we'll have to replace the engine. Everything electronic works, but the engine sounds like it's about to croak. Should I try to fix the van? Or just give it up and get another one?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2007 Chrysler T & C minivan. The engine cuts off while driving. Most frequently while turning (to the right!). My mechanic found a loose battery terminal. Nope. Next he suspected the ignition switch which has been a problem with other model years. Nope. Now he wants to try the cam shaft? What could cause it to just die during a right turn? and very frequently.
View 3 Replies109K and runs great except for when accelerating from start to any speed. The front end acts likes the front wheels are slightly out of balance. Once you stop accelerating all is fine. Tires have plenty of tread and no I haven't rotated them to the rear which I might do?
View 1 RepliesI have a Pontiac Montana minivan SV6 that is making strange clunking noises from possibly the rear or middle of the van when I go over a bump, large or small. I have had it in to our local mechanic and the local tire/repair shop and transmission shop. They have not been able to locate a problem other than agreeing that there is a noise.
Our mechanic replaced the front struts and strut mounts, the rear shocks and has gone over the entire suspension and transmission more than once. The noise is very loud, like something is broken but despite three separate shops checking it out nothing can be found.
Any possibility is could be something with the automatic side doors, such as the motor being loose or something strange like that? If it didn't have this clunking sound the ride would be very smooth and quiet. It doesn't affect the ride at all. The other bit of info here is that we haven't owned this van for very long, we bought it as is thinking that it needed shocks or struts. They've been replaced but the sound is still around!
The rear vents in my '09 Toyota Sienna minivan do not blow heat, only cold. The vents up front work just fine, but when I turn on the rear heater (whether from the front controls or from the rear controls), my kids get iced. They never blow heat, even after long periods of time. (Also, the upper vents in the back do not blow strong, even on High, although the lower one does). I heard something about an interior heat sensor, and about blend doors.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Kia Sedona. The clock on the overhead console and the wiper fluid pump are both working only intermittently and they alternate working. In other words, when one works the other does not. My mechanic has checked it and has not found anything obvious.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2004 Kia sedona ex, it was running great when I got it, and it has 81000 miles. On the way home it kind of sputtered a couple of times, then the engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they said 2, 4, and 6 was misfiring. I called the dealer and they said that it was probably because I didn't click the gas cap three times. Could that be the cause or do I need to change the spark plugs or coil or something??
View 6 RepliesThe wheel and brakes simply lock up while the engine is still running. That is the wheel can not, or with great difficulty and only a tiny bit, be moved and the brakes cannot be pushed down. I did try to pump the brakes four times when the engine was off and each time the pressure increases which I think was a test for brake boosters being OK? The way I got out of this situation was to get off the gas pedal, down shift, close the engine while on the road still and then quickly starting up again, and up shifting to Drive at which point all is normal. It happened before but I was not able to discern if the engine was running or not at that time ( initially when this happened I though the car had stopped actually) but this time there were no fans, no sounds, and a very empty road so I was able to tell that the engine indeed stays on the whole time this happens. I will take this car in but am trying to understand more about this kind of problem.
View 3 RepliesOn the way home from my first weekend trip in my '04Screw, I noticed the speedometer did not agree with my GPS, which was sitting ontop of the dash. The speedometer was reading 2-3 mph faster than the GPS.
The truck was taching about 2,000 rpm .. speedometer read 72-73 .. and the Garmin III+ GPS read 2-3 mph less than the truck, tracking 8 out of 12 satellites, and varied between 68 and 69 mph.
My Lariat does have 18 inch tires. I don't have a clue if that caused the difference.
Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
View 5 RepliesI have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
I have a 2004 Kia Sedona Van with approximately 107,000 miles. The last month, I noticed it seems between 38-48 MPH.You will suddenly feel a vibration like you ran over "wake up bumps" though not as rough. It has lasted a couple to maybe 5 seconds. The vibration may not happen but once a day or can happen couple times a day. There can be a couple of days that it does not do it. I had the front end check-tires and there was no problems.
View 5 RepliesI was checking my oil the other day and when I removed the cap there was this whitish film stuff and gunk on it. This is the first time I have noticed this and was wondering what is it, what causes it and should I be concerned? My car is a 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van 6 cylinder with about 147,000 miles on it and it has had regular oil changes for the past year plus that I have owned it.
View 11 RepliesI own a 2005 Kia sedona lx with roughly 105k miles on it. the van has been shaking at around 60mph and up. I went and got an alignment, a hub bearing, and the two front tires replaced, but the shaking is still there. it only appears when accelerating, and if i let off the gas and coast, it pretty much goes away.
View 4 RepliesMy CEL is on and according to Auto Zones code checker read a P0340 on my 2002 KIA Sedona with 160400 miles. It said Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction 1 or single sensor.
So what should I do now? Van is running as smooth as ever so not sure what I should do.
My Kia Sedona, 2006, has stalled on my approximately 6 times. Everything in the car works, lights, radio,... and yet the engine is locked out. Sometimes in 15 minutes I can start the engine again and other times no luck. NHTSA indicates there are electrical wiring system issues yet no one at Kia can figure it out. And no one will admit there is a problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 KIA Sedona with the CEL on. I got the code and would like to clear it but Auto Zone who read the code said they were not permitted to clear it and highly recommend not clearing it. So is it bad to clear it and if not how can I do it myself?
View 19 Replies2006 KIA SEDONA was running HOTT had it inspected and pressure tested (radiator shop & mechanic shop) no leaks found. A FEW DAYS AGO wouldn't crank checked oil IT WAS MILKY, drained radiator. Also drained engine oil first a gallon of anti freeze came out then the milky oil. Hopefully optimistic that it's not that serious. Am I wrong? what should I do next.
View 7 RepliesAbout a week ago while driving to work my engine sputtered a bit and the CEL came on and then went off. As I drove the sputtering reoccurred when I would accelerate from being stopped but went away when I got to higher speeds. Again the CEL came on. Next day I took it to the dealership who read a P306 code and was told it was an issue with the No. 6 cylinder. After driving a few more miles the sputtering stopped happening. The next day I got in, started the van and no more CEL. That was last Wed, and since then I have done over 150 miles of driving and no sputtering and the CEL has not come back on. Could I have just gotten some bad gas or something that caused the brief sputtering and CEL.
2002 Kia Sedona, 6 cylinder147,000 miles
My wife's van just had an issue. Of course this happens when I am about to go in a business trip. Let me start by saying that we have never had a problem with this van. It now has around 75,000 miles on it, and was last driven yesterday. We went to start it up this morning, and it was very difficult to get running. If you wanted to stall, (had to keep my foot on the gas and I could tell the motor was missing), but I'm more concerned with the metallic top end tapping the motor was making. It sounded like a bad valve tap so I turned the motor off , checked the oil level to make sure I did not leak the oil out (last checked three days ago when I got gas). The level was fine, so I started the motor again.. ran the same but this time cleared up and ran fine with in 10 seconds. The noise went away and it ran smooth as silk again. Turned it on and off a few times and it was fine each time. My wife is driving it now and says it feels fine. The motor it self is still under warranty but not the ignition or fuel parts.
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