I have a Kia Sedona 2004 that got overfilled with oil. It foamed and now we have a stuck lifter. Worst case scenario is that we'll have to replace the engine. Everything electronic works, but the engine sounds like it's about to croak. Should I try to fix the van? Or just give it up and get another one?
View 12 RepliesI got this car recently but had driven it several times before. I had never had trouble before, but now it is a very long process to fill the gas tank (at any station/pump type). There was a thread where someone with a similar problem was asking whether this was related to the cold, but my guess is that I have the same problem as this thread: [URL] ....
...where the car had been overfilled too many times and the overfill sensor was stuck on.
1.) Is the problem indeed with a stuck sensor in the tank?
2.) Is this a do-it-yourself fix? How (specifically, beyond "poke a wire in there")?
3.) I had never heard of this before it happened to me.
If it's not something I can fix, what's a reasonable charge from a mechanic?
Long Story short: Brakes replaced at local dealer (courtesy offer from Toyota Corporate). I paid dealer, submitted invoice and received reimbursement. Service tech replaced front pads and rotors. Everything seemed fine until the day I popped the hood to detail the engine. Noticed that the fluid level in the master cylinder was at the cap and the cap itself had "popped" due to the excess pressure in the system. Brought the car back to the dealer. I was reassured that after draining off the excess fluid, the braking system would be OK. I disagreed.
View 7 RepliesMy 2004 F-150 only has 52,000 miles on it and all of a sudden it lost the keeper off the lifter and doesn't hardly run. I am told that is common with the F-150 starting in 2004 but when I contacted Ford they admitted it was common but they won't stand behind it ...
View 6 Replies2004 auto ranger 120k miles
When I bought it there was a lifter making a tap tap tap. Its not all the time or consistent which makes me feel its a failed lifter as opposed to a rocker arm that is loose. Ive tried the "stuff" in the oil. Seafoam, marvel mystery, etc with no luck. So this coming winter Im going to break it down and replace the lifter.
First question. I havent put a stethoscope on it or used the "hose to ear" method to track down which one it is. Im pretty sure its the right bank in the front. Will it be obvious which one it is when I get it broken down?
Next. At 120k miles should I be worried about the other lifters? Ive never had one fail on anything I own and hardly ever hear them on other cars. I pretty much thought that hydraulic lifters were failproof anymore. Should I be worried about the others?
Next next, do I need to be worried about damage to the pushrod and or rocker arm? Should I be prepared to replace those as well? Finally anything else to be concerned about or consider?
As everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
I am working on this 2004 van for my sister.... It will idle fine.. when you drive you can get to 25 or so but won't go any faster even with foot to the floor... was thinking fuel filter but you have to buy the whole pump for this car?
View 5 Replies109K and runs great except for when accelerating from start to any speed. The front end acts likes the front wheels are slightly out of balance. Once you stop accelerating all is fine. Tires have plenty of tread and no I haven't rotated them to the rear which I might do?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Kia Sedona. The clock on the overhead console and the wiper fluid pump are both working only intermittently and they alternate working. In other words, when one works the other does not. My mechanic has checked it and has not found anything obvious.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2004 Kia sedona ex, it was running great when I got it, and it has 81000 miles. On the way home it kind of sputtered a couple of times, then the engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they said 2, 4, and 6 was misfiring. I called the dealer and they said that it was probably because I didn't click the gas cap three times. Could that be the cause or do I need to change the spark plugs or coil or something??
View 6 RepliesI went to the dealer yesterday for my 105000km service. After it is done, I realized that they overfill the engine coolant reservoir. Should I make an appointment with them again to drain them out and put back the right amount? Or it is completely fine?
View 4 RepliesI have VW99 Passat 1.8L Turbo, automatic with 170K on it.
My car shop changed engine oil yesterday with 4 QTS of Mobile 5W40. Now, when I check my dipstick today, on level surface, the oil level is way too high on dipstick kink [the cross-hatched mark]. I run the engine, shut it off, and let it set for 3 min, but still the level is too high above the Mark. It wets the dipstick almost till the top of its Head.It was reading High when I first checked it, this morning, before starting my car.
It seems the oil is 'overfilled' or showing over filled; and the engine is about to throw it out from "filler cap" where Dipstick goes in the engine. I saw him using 4 cans 1 QTS oil, which I bought, into my car. They did change the "oil filter" at the same time?
Now, my car looses power while driving. When I accelerated from a stop/light, car slows down or limps. The car suffered a sudden loss of power.It runs awful for about a mile but smoothed out after acceleration.It feels like the car is running out of gas for a few seconds, then all of a sudden it kicks in. The car still drives ok though - No error messages/warnings on dash,CEL, no smoke, no hissing. I actually don't see engine oil thrown out or leaking though.
I don't know if the shop drained the "intercooler" while changing the oil, also I know nothing about its importance to my power loss issue. The net search manual/states "The engine oil, above the level, can be drawn into the crankcase ventilation system, and enter the atmosphere via the exhaust system". But it does says about damaging the engine/car.
Should I be worried about the damage to the engine?
A friend of mine who also owns a 4 cylinder 2000 Camry just recently changed the oil and oil filter in his car is fretting that he overfilled with new oil because he discovered he surpassed the full line on the dipstick by 3/16 of an inch. I told him the 3/16 of an inch past the full mark is not going to make his engine blow up and to not worry about it. But being extremely anal about these kinds of things he is insistent that he remove that 3/16 of an inch of extra oil.
Another of our friends (who is a certified mechanic) of many years told him that cars are somewhat designed to be idiot proof and going slightly past the full mark is not going to destroy the engine.
Dealer over filled the oil and now during cold start ups I am getting a bad noise form the engine that sounds like bad tappets or clanking metal. this does go away after a few seconds. Should I be alarmed?
View 8 RepliesWe purchased a car close to a year ago that at some point had the oil overfilled. We've had the engine cleaned out by the dealership and the car runs much better now but we still see smoke when the car is turned on and occasionally when it idles for more than a few minutes. Is this something that will just be an ongoing cycle or is there something else we should be having checked?
The car is a 2002 Toyota Solara, automatic, 120k miles.
The day before my road trip from VA to ME I had the oil changed in my 2006/120,000 mile Subaru Forester. Soon after getting on the road I noticed a burning smell and smoke coming from my engine. I called my mechanic and he said it was dripped oil burning off. about an hour later we noticed oil dripping from the engine and when we checked the oil we noticed it was overfilled. We then took it to a nearby mechanic who said they thought the oil tank had been overfilled and may have blown out the camshaft seal and that was the cause of the drip and oil burning. They said it was a repair that would take some time, but when asked the mechanic also said we would do no harm and it wouldn't be dangerous to drive so long as we kept the oil levels up.
An hour on the road and the car started to vibrate and lose power. So we took it to yet another mechanic (same group as the prior two) the next morning and they concurred that it was likely the camshaft seal but would take several days to repair, and diagnose and repair the cause of the vibration. after a week I was told that the repair to the camshaft had indeed fixed the oil leak but that with further examination it was discovered that the pressure in one of the cylinders was 20 lbs, not the 100lb it's supposed to be. So my question is - could there be a link between the overfilled oil tank, the damaged camshaft seal, and the cylinder.
I've recently bought a 2002 toyota corolla wagon. I noticed the transmission fluid of the automatic gearbox has been overfilled. This measurement was with a cold and switched off engine and on a level ground. Is this something I should be concerned about and can it cause damage? Should I have it drained to the normal level or is it ok to keep it this way? I didn't come with a manual so I'm not sure if i measured correctly.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Lexus GS430 w/ 100k miles. I've been trying to solve my coolant issue for the longest and I've been doing research like crazy!!! The issue that I'm having is that coolant from the radiator is blowing back into the reservoir causing the reservoir to be overfilled and splattering all over the engine bay. Also, when this happens the fluid in the radiator drops significantly ( I have to keep dumping the lost coolant from the reservoir back into the radiator). Under normal driving the fluid wont blow over to the reservoir that much (just a little) but, when I drive long distances or if I floor it that is when the coolant from the radiator really pushes over into the reservoir. When the car cools, I find out that the coolant from the reservoir does not draw back into the radiator. (I'm guessing due to the air in the cooling system?)
Checklist on what has been done to the car:
- NEW Water Pump (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Timing Belt (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Thermostat (Installed by Lexus) (I also tested the thermostat in boiling water and it opened and closed)
- NEW Radiator (Installed by Lexus also was pressure tested and passed)
- NEW Radiator Cap (Genuine Toyota 1.1 bar)
- Coolant Flush (flushed radiator and engine block with water hose)
-Bled System with my Lisle Spill Free Funnel and Heater on MAX HOT Full blast! Heater is working good!
(Did this 3 times for 30 min+ to get rid off all the air bubbles)
- Performed a Block Test to see if any combustion gasses were in the cooling system, to determine if it was a blown/failing head gasket (passed)
I dont know what else to do at this point other then do a compression test and a leak down test. There is no coolant in the oil and no coolant leaks. Car drives solid and strong! Is there a bleeder valve on the GS430 somewhere or does it have a bleeder valve? Is it something I'm doing wrong?
I just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
I have a 2003 Camry with the 2AZ-FE in it. It has just under 300000 kms on it and is really starting to make lifter noise. Now i know these engines do make ticking noise but I can tell that it is getting progressively worse. I phoned local toyota shop and they want 900 in labor to adjust valves no parts. I know this engine has no adjustment other than swapping lifters to a different size. I am just curious to see if this is worth it on a car with so many miles. Would I be better to drive till it dies then buy another motor or head? Also kinda worried about stripping head bolts in the block if i do change the head. How common is this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Volvo S70 with 140k. 2.5 litre 5cyl automatic. For sometime now my lifters have been making noise especially at start up. I'm up to date on my oil servicing using Volvo filters and a 20-50w motor oil ( as recommended by my mechanic ) but still the noise continues. In the past I have used additives to the oil but still the problem continues. Maybe I'm using the wrong one.
View 7 Replies