109K and runs great except for when accelerating from start to any speed. The front end acts likes the front wheels are slightly out of balance. Once you stop accelerating all is fine. Tires have plenty of tread and no I haven't rotated them to the rear which I might do?
View 1 RepliesWhen I take my car in to have an oil change/checkup the garage tells me my wheels need to be balanced. However I do not have any indication that I need wheel balancing. The tires do not show unusual wear, there is no shaking while driving in the city, nor when on an expressway driving from 40 to 70 MPH. Is it possible I really need to balance the wheels?
View 12 RepliesOk, I have a 2006 Ford f-150 5.4L engine. it has 88000 miles on it. Here recently it has started acting up on me. It starts shaking violently when I slightly accelerate going up hills at any speed. On level ground it doesn't do it. Going down hill it doesn't do it. When stopped it doesn't idle rough.
It does this shaking when I barely press the gas. When it starts I either let off the gas or I push the gas to the floor and it stops. What is going on? This is the first Ford I have ever known. I don't know anything about these vehicles. I have read it might be the coils and plugs but then people have told me it might be the torque converter.
2005 2.3Liter 4wd Mariner, 225k miles
I have been experiencing clunk noise on the front end when braking or accelerating and turning wheels.
I have replaced: front control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and stabilizer links and 2 days ago I replaced strut mounts and bearings.
The steering is smooth after the strut mounts replaced but I can still hear cluck noise mostly on left now when going over bumps, braking and accelerating.
Car also has new engine/trans mounts.
I am so lost right now because I cannot figure out what is it. The only thing I didn't replace are the struts but the I test them and they seem to function fine.
I own a 2005 Kia sedona lx with roughly 105k miles on it. the van has been shaking at around 60mph and up. I went and got an alignment, a hub bearing, and the two front tires replaced, but the shaking is still there. it only appears when accelerating, and if i let off the gas and coast, it pretty much goes away.
View 4 RepliesI recently got new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires mounted on new OEM Toyota rims and am noticing my 2012 Avalon pulls slightly to the left. This car is the first front wheel drive car I have ever owned & am wondering if this is somewhat normal. It did not seem to do this when I had the old tires(Michelin Energy MXV4) tires with the original rims. It is not THAT bad but I DO notice it. My current mileage is 36k.
View 14 RepliesJust had my alignment done last week. Left toe was -0.27 meaning the front of the front wheel was pointed slightly outward. Right wheel was at .01.
View 2 RepliesIs there any quick fix for this? My steering wheel is slightly turned when the wheels are pointing straight. I thought a wheel alignment would fix this, but it didn't.
View 3 RepliesMy car has a little bit of a shimmy between 65 and 80, can feel it more when changing lanes slowly, after 80 slows down to almost nothing and by 100 is gone. Road force and high speed balanced, new set of tires (Mich. PS2) still does it. One more detail, the steering wheels is slightly tilted to the left when driving straight, anything to do with this? I'm suspecting the rotors too, but I only have 3,400 miles on my car.
View 8 RepliesI have a Venture with a steadily-worsening vibration problem which is always worse at the front passenger side. The vibration is not the growly rumble I remember from the bad bearings I replaced 3 years ago. It's more like the thudding feel of an out-of-balance tire, but the tires are relatively new and have been rotated and balanced since purchase and since I noticed the problem. The vibration shows mainly from 45-55 mph, but not if coasting. It's only when the engine is under load that I feel it. It occurs when the gear select is in D or 3. At any other speed it is not as bad, but if I get on the gas, the vibration becomes worse. Revving the engine in park or neutral reveals no abnormal vibration.
I jacked up the van and rotated the tires again and checked for any play in the bearings or loose mounting bolts - nothing obvious there. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine, around the inboard CV joint, a spray of thick axle/moly grease, like one would find inside a CV boot, as if the boot has a small hole in it, but the CV joint does not grind or make any typical noise on sharp turn.
My list of guesses include: motor mounts, tranny mounts, bad bearing/hub, bad half shaft/CV joint, tranny going bad, bad bearing in engine.
History/details: 2004 Venture LS long wheelbase. 160,000 miles. Goodyear Viva 2 tires. Front bearings have been replaced as a set once, driver side again since then, when the ABS sensor went bad. Sometimes when I put it into drive and turn sharply to the left, traction control turns on momentarily. The tranny has begun to slip and grab on a coast-to-stop followed by sudden acceleration.
I drive an 06 Prius and it just started making this squeaking sound from the wheels when I steer. When I make turns you can hear the sound both ways when turning the wheel.
I took it to the dealership for the steering recall but they didn't seem to find anything. Is it just something I can lube up to make it go away or is it something more serious?
I have a 2005 KR that the 4wd doesn't lock in the front wheels. I haven't seen my exact problem as I have been searching it. When I turn the switch. The dash lights both in high and low 4wd. I hear the transfer motor engage in both hi and low. No ratcheting noises from the wheels. I have replaced the solenoid. And still nothing. Checked fuses And they are OK.
View 3 RepliesI just recently bought a used 2004 fx4 with 148k and everything appears to be engaging but front wheels not pulling. I've already replaced the IWE solenoid behind the battery to avail, my question is, when I put it in 4H, light comes comes on, but I don't "feel" the transfer case engage, when I put it in 4L, light on I feel it shift. So could the shift motor not be engaging the front driveshaft even though the lights come on?
View 10 RepliesWhen I go out in the morning to my c430 and start to reverse always on full lock either right or left the wheels seem to slip or slightly spin - it only happens for a second but it's strange and doesn't always happen.
View 2 RepliesNo matter what gear I put the car in the car does not move. I reversed the car to move it and my the gear selector was hit into drive while making a reverse movement. I then proceed to drive forward and it took a higher rpm to move the car. While the car is in the air the wheels sometimes move slightly at high Rpms.
The car threw a P0500, P0746 and P2714 code so I replaced the valve body. Still nothing.
I have a 2006 XLT w/ the 5.4L engine. Manual transfer case, I'm wondering where to start looking for problems w/ the 4x4...the front wheels don't engage.
View 3 Replies2006 Lariat 4x4 Troubleshooting. My front wheels wont engage when I select 4H or 4L. No dash lights are ever lit.
I read up and understand how the system works and plan to replace the solenoid, transfer case motor and both hub actuators. I swapped out the solenoid and wanted to test that it was functioning properly so I followed the video below:
YouTube........
With the engine running and selector switch at 2WD, I pull the vacuum lines off and can feel vacuum at the supply. I then hook up just the supply line up (to the bottom port) and expect to feel vacuum at the other solenoid port (top port - what I would call the outlet) and cannot feel any vacuum.
This has halted my repair attempts as I am not convinced this is functioning and would pull in the actuators if they were functional. I know it's a small vacuum from a small orifice but I would think I should feel it by hand, no?
The solenoid's electrical connector is plugged in during this as well. I get the same performance with the old solenoid and the new. If I bypass the solenoid I can feel vacuum at the front wheel hubs.
Should I try a third solenoid? Seems unlikely I would have 2 bad ones...No OBDII codes at all. What to try next?
I have an intermittent grinding noise coming from what sounds like both front wheels, it sounds like metal on metal almost like something metal rubbing the rotor but I just put new pads on and the noise was there before as well with nothing touching the rotors but the pads. The sound will appear out of no-where at low speeds of 35 or below and will continue until I brake and slow down, just before I come to a compete stop the noise will stop with a slight clunk.
I can then drive away with no noise. I am pretty sure it is not brake related except maybe ABS somehow but was also thinking front axle or diff, also have read posts that are bearing related, but both at the same time?. It is the slight clunk before stopping that I can not figure out is related to. It is an 05 f150 xlt 5.4 super cab 4wd with 85k miles
Took my 2002 Kia Sedona mini van in this past weekend to have it checked out do to the vibration in the steering wheel and sever left turn in my front end when I let go of the steering wheel. Luckily I found out that it just needs an alignment really bad and 4 new tires as all four have issues. None of the four are in "dangerous" condition but need to be replaced. Problem is the cost to replace all 4 and due the alignment is outside of my budget. I can do the front two and the alignment this coming weekend and replace the other two next month. My question is will not replacing the back two impact on the alignment?
View 19 RepliesI have been told that my back brakes need replacing and the place suggested it would need to include replacing the drums. They wanted about $400 for new drums and pads and such. I have never in all the years I have owned a car had to ever have anything but pads replaced on any of my cars brakes. I have had the car checked a number of times and no one till this last place who was also replacing my front wheel baring said anything about needing new drums and such. If the drums were that bad would you not hear something or feel something while braking?
My car: 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van/149,000 miles on it, I got it with 135,000 on it and have not had any break work done to this point because I was told it wasn't needed.
I have a new car now, 2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G, got it at 88k and it now has 167k. Nearly no problems other than routine maintenance, but here I am with an issue I can't seem to figure out.
A few weeks ago, I blew a tire on the highway, ended up getting 2 new tires put on the front and moved the fronts to the back. Tires were then rebalanced and the alignment straightened out.
The guys at the shop said the front tie end rod needed replaced, but I'm pretty sure they were trying to make extra money off a new customer because my bill was going from tires/alignment to tires/alignment, bearings, tie end rods, and speed sensors.
Now, on to my issue. When I'm driving on the interstate, I notice a humming sound that seems to come from the front passenger wheel between 68-80mph. Soon as I go over 80 or under 68, it's gone. I noticed that the noise lessened when I veered to the right, so I assumed it was the bearing.
Took the car to my usual shop, had the bearings checked, got the front driver bearing replaced under warranty. Mechanic said the passenger bearing seemed fine. Got it on the highway again today, noise is still there.
3.8SuperPacer
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G with Ram Air
1998 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniversary Daytona 500 Pace Car Edition