Kia - Sedona :: 2002 - Engine Sputtered A Bit / CEL Came On And Then Went Off
Jan 31, 2012
About a week ago while driving to work my engine sputtered a bit and the CEL came on and then went off. As I drove the sputtering reoccurred when I would accelerate from being stopped but went away when I got to higher speeds. Again the CEL came on. Next day I took it to the dealership who read a P306 code and was told it was an issue with the No. 6 cylinder. After driving a few more miles the sputtering stopped happening. The next day I got in, started the van and no more CEL. That was last Wed, and since then I have done over 150 miles of driving and no sputtering and the CEL has not come back on. Could I have just gotten some bad gas or something that caused the brief sputtering and CEL.
2002 Kia Sedona, 6 cylinder147,000 miles
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I just bought a 2004 Kia sedona ex, it was running great when I got it, and it has 81000 miles. On the way home it kind of sputtered a couple of times, then the engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they said 2, 4, and 6 was misfiring. I called the dealer and they said that it was probably because I didn't click the gas cap three times. Could that be the cause or do I need to change the spark plugs or coil or something??
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Today my Passat B5.5 V6 was parked in the driveway and it was kind of hot outside. When I went to start it up it sputtered a little while before it eventually felt secure or stable. I also noticed the computer light ( with the gas miles left info) was slightly dimmer....which lasted until I did a restart. After that one time it didnt happen again the entire day.
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I was checking my oil the other day and when I removed the cap there was this whitish film stuff and gunk on it. This is the first time I have noticed this and was wondering what is it, what causes it and should I be concerned? My car is a 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van 6 cylinder with about 147,000 miles on it and it has had regular oil changes for the past year plus that I have owned it.
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My CEL is on and according to Auto Zones code checker read a P0340 on my 2002 KIA Sedona with 160400 miles. It said Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction 1 or single sensor.
So what should I do now? Van is running as smooth as ever so not sure what I should do.
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona with the CEL on. I got the code and would like to clear it but Auto Zone who read the code said they were not permitted to clear it and highly recommend not clearing it. So is it bad to clear it and if not how can I do it myself?
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We are getting hit again here in Indy with harsh temps. So far this winter my 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van has handled it pretty well, until this morning. I went out to start it and it wouldn't. Well it finally did but took a while. Normally I get in turn the key and it starts. This morning I tried that it started then died. I tried to restart and it would turn over but not start. This continued for a few minutes until I had to pump the pedel and keep it depressed a little before it would start. Once it started I gave it a little gas and everything was okay and it ran just fine. What might have been the cause to this early morning cold starting issue?
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and last night while driving home the light that for the gas gauge and temp gauge went out, the other dash lights are still working. How difficult is it to replace a dash board light and how do you find out how to get to this light bulb?
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Yesterday while driving to work I noticed my car sputtering when I began to accelerate and then the CEL came on. Well it did it some more yesterday afternoon but after sitting for about 7 hours while I was at work I drove it home last night without any issue. Then this morning drove around running errands and not one sign of sputter at all.
Stopped by the Kia dealership and they read the code which I believe was 306 and they said it was showing the number 6 cylinder misfiring/spark plug/wire problem. They said it could be a bad plug or wire or coil but wouldn't know till they looked at it which they will in about a week. But still driving and no signs of any sputter. What might have caused the temp sputter and code and how do I reset the CEL to see if the code goes off again?
Car: 2002 Kia Sedona Milage: 147,000Eng: 6 cylinder
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Took my 2002 Kia Sedona mini van in this past weekend to have it checked out do to the vibration in the steering wheel and sever left turn in my front end when I let go of the steering wheel. Luckily I found out that it just needs an alignment really bad and 4 new tires as all four have issues. None of the four are in "dangerous" condition but need to be replaced. Problem is the cost to replace all 4 and due the alignment is outside of my budget. I can do the front two and the alignment this coming weekend and replace the other two next month. My question is will not replacing the back two impact on the alignment?
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and one of the issues with this van is that the metal cooling lines that run from the engine area back to the back of the van heating core rust away and have to be replaced. Can you just cut those away and put like a u joint on it so that the anti freeze doesn't go back there and thus reducing the huge cost of replacing those lines? Yes I know that means no heat in the back of the van but I don't use the heat back there now and haven't through this past horrible winter. I am just trying to reduce the cost I am looking at for this repair that I know I am going to have to address in the coming months.
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona that I just had new drums, brakes and brake kit put on. The braking is fine, however I hear a clicking sound from the backend now when I apply the brakes when I just about come to a stop or lightly braking in my neighborhood. What is causing it and how dangerous is it?
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On my 2002 Kia sedona mini van my CC has stopped working. How do they work and what should I look at as reasons why it just stopped? I just had all the belts replaced and crank shaft sensor replaced, could any of that have played a role?
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My driver side front head light compartment continually has moisture inside of it. My question(s) are how does that happen, and is there a way to stop it without just replacing the entire unit? The head light works okay but figure that this can't be a good thing.
2002 Kia Sedona Mini Van6 cylinder147,000 miles
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I have been told that my back brakes need replacing and the place suggested it would need to include replacing the drums. They wanted about $400 for new drums and pads and such. I have never in all the years I have owned a car had to ever have anything but pads replaced on any of my cars brakes. I have had the car checked a number of times and no one till this last place who was also replacing my front wheel baring said anything about needing new drums and such. If the drums were that bad would you not hear something or feel something while braking?
My car: 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van/149,000 miles on it, I got it with 135,000 on it and have not had any break work done to this point because I was told it wasn't needed.
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van with about 143,000 miles on it. It runs great outside of a noise I am getting from the rear driver side wheel. When ever I go over a bump I get a clank sound. Took it to the dealership and they told me it is due to shock, but that the shock is not bad. they said that a rubber piece on the shock and mounting area is missing and that the metal sound is coming from where that rubber piece would be. They took me and showed me and at the top of the shock where it attaches to the car there is no rubber and when they pushed the car up and down I could see the the two pieces of metal would hit and make the sound. The dealership said they saw nothing wrong with the shock itself and feel it is safe, however they were not sure how this rubber piece feel away.
Does this make any sense?
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I was driving and got off the freeway exit ramp and while I was waiting to make a left turn, the car all of a sudden started sputtering (RPM's were low up and down on idle) and eventually died while waiting to make a left turn.
Turned on the engine again.. same sputtering occurred and had to gas it so it wouldn't turn off.. Finally got to the side of the road.. turned the car off checked the oil.. no issues.. engine temperature was fine.. no check engine light.
After about 30 min later, turned the car on and it seemed to be normal again so I carefully drove to the dealer and encountered no issues. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't find anything.
I drive a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited with about 19k miles now.
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I just got caught in the rain, literally, a freeway ramp was partially flooded, saw other cars go through a "puddle" and with safety distance proceeded. About 9 feet away from the edge of this water accumulation my engine sputtered and turned off on me and I recall seeing some, but not much white smoke coming out of the hood. I didn't leave the car as when I look right next to me I saw only water, about 1/2 the height of my tire surrounding me. AAA came pretty fast and pulled me out of that wet mess and mentioned it could be just as simple as overheating. It's about 2 hours later and I tried my engine but all it does is struggling to turn on. I turned it off immediately. I checked my coolant level - empty as it can get, and also my dipstick in the oil seems to be not right. Transmission fluid is fine though. Could those two fluids be the problem to why my engine is not starting? Or could it be that something got too wet? Once I turn the key in the 1 position shows electricity is fine and all lights come on with Overdrive and SRS going off after a short while. 1992 Volvo 240 ...
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Ok 2007 ran out of gas I think, red triangle. Engine sputtered to end. Put in gas. Wont start. Jump started little battery nothing. Can I jump big battery? Been running well....
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I have a 13 year-old VW with low mileage (about 87,000). I replaced the battery a couple of years ago, and once the compressor died I decided I could live without A/C since I live in Wisconsin. Last summer I went to turn it over, found the speed- and tachometers went a little haywire and the check engine light came on. After trying a few more times, the engine did start but then sputtered and gave out. I had the car towed, but by the time I got to a shop the tow driver said the check engine light was off and he was able to drive it into the garage.
The garage flushed the fuel line and checked the computer, all seemed fine. Then a few weeks later my wife said it wouldn't start (I was working out of town). By the time I returned it was clear the battery was dead, even the keyless entry and internal light didn't work. My father in law, who knows cars fairly well, thinks my alternator needs to be replaced. I'm now at the point with this car that if it needs major repair I might let it go. I'm having the car towed to a shop on Tuesday, they'll run a diagnostic and tell me what's needed to get it back up and running.
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Just poking around under the hood of my new car. Removed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and it promptly sputtered and died. I've done that countless times on non-turbo engines to get a better listen to the valve train, and never had an engine die on me, including my B5.5 V6. Put the fill cap back on and it cranked right up and idled normally again. No CEL or other lights. Is that normal?
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