Kia - Rio :: 2009 - Misfiring And Flashing Check Engine Light
Aug 8, 2014
Yesterday out of no where my rio started to misfire so i immediately took it into autozone to have it checked. when doing so the check engine light was on, but solid.
The tests came back with P0300, P0301, and P0302 or 3. I cant find the papers, but its 3 cyns that are misfiring. The guy at autozone suggested i try changing out the plugs first since its cheaper and has been known to fix this issue.
The second I bought the plugs I went home and changed them out. once finished i started up the car and not only was the car still misfiring, but the check engine light is now flashing... I did notice one thing when changing the plugs.
If facing the engine the second coil from the left had a bit of what looked to be rust. i was able to wipe it off with ease. What my next move should be?
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
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I have a 2010 Corolla. The car is flashing the infamous VSC Off, trac, engine light! The car is still has the powertrain warranty. I was wondering if I should take it to a Toyota dealership.
But I read just getting the diagnostic itself is around $100. I don't want to end up paying for that if the repairs end up being something that's not even covered under the warranty.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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The car was misfiring and the check engine light codes were all sensor coils were bad. Lexus told me that it was coil6 bad and they fixed it. I should have had no problems, I got a whole 2 miles and I misfired and engine light back on. I drove for a while and light went off and then misfired again. Before I bring it back in I was looking for some insight. I can't understand how it wasn't fixed right the first time but I don't want to go back and get a few thousand bill either. Could fixing one coil cause another to go bad.
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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i have a 2008 santa fe with a 2.7 61,000 miles 2nd owner ,out of warranty. It started missing and the check engine light came on. I took it to a local parts store who put an analyzer on it an it showed the #3 spark plug was misfiring. I am hoping its the plug. I do my own work but havn`t been able to find a correct sequence to replace the plugs.
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To start off with I am not car smart! I have a 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L V6. Last year about this time (December) I had problems with the vehicle upon start up would be miss firing and the check engine light would come on. I would turn the vehicle off and restart and it would be fine and not happen again sometimes for a week and sometimes for months. I hooked it up to the computer and found that it was missing on the #6 cylinder. I had the coil pack replaced and that seemed to fix the problem (replaced spring 2011). About a week ago it started doing the same thing (December 1). Upon initial start up when the car is cold and the outside air is very cold it started missing again and having a rough idle. Would turn of the car and restart and would run fine but check engine light would come on.
Hooked it up to the computer once again and it read random misfire. This has happened twice now in two weeks with the same reading each time. Always when it is cold (engine and outside temp) and seems to reset itself when turned off.
I spoke with a mechanic who recently had this same issue with a different vehicle and after trying many things replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and that did the trick. He said it was a cheap start therefore i bought the part and now am looking to replace it. The only problem being i am car dumb and cant find it. I have done many searches and the diagrams i have found don't do me any justice. The past posts on here have given pictures of older models that dont match what i am looking at. It probably is right in front of my face. Any picture of a 2008 that will show the correct area I should be looking at? The vehicle only has about 57,000 miles on it.
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I never had a single problem with that great car, now at 164,000 km, but got my first check engine warnings last friday, with the VSC OFF flashing, as well as the stabilitrak and check engine signals being lit. The car was still running fine, so I disconnected the battery this weekend and erased the codes. But this morning (2 days only later), the warnings are back. I went to a local garage and they retrieved the following codes: P043F, PO43E, P2402, P2419, P2401 and P2402. What do I do with this?
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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So today I start my car, I get the check engine on (steady not flashing) and have stability control flashing with my traction control light on. I found out it could be the gas cap not on right so I removed it and screwed it on again, check engine light was still on though. However, after starting the car again after a drive it was gone .
I do turn off stability control sometimes if it's nice out?
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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Have a Volvo XC70 and LOVE it! Recently ETS light came on and Check engine has always been on, mechanics did not seem to worried in past. As of the last month seemed to be issue with thermostat... Car would warm to normal when idling and driving below 25 mph... once I accelerated needle would drop and thermostat would go to baseline... Could feel faint warm air, but was only getting cold air coming from vents... Thought it might be thermostat stuck open?
Called my trusted mechanic and he recommended going to a radiator specialist, felt he might not be able to solve. Went to new shop today, after dropping off at 8am when they opened and not hearing from them until 4:45pm, 15 minutes before they close... Car is fixed, or so they say. Hot air is indeed coming out of vents and needle is staying where it should without falling...
BUT, now there is a strange smell (sulfur"ish") coming from the engine, and the car is shuddering and vibrating, bucking almost when car comes to a stop and then accelerates. ETS light is back on and check engine is now flashing!?! Tried going up hill on the way home and could not go faster than 20mph? None of this was happening before I took it in to the new shop today? They changed oil and oil filter and flushed radiater?
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Get in my car, try to start it and BAM it hits me. As I turn the key, the engine cranks up quick, kinda too quick, if you ask me. As I go to adjust my radio, I feel my car start to jump around and shake pretty rough. As I look at my gauges, I see my check engine light start to flash. So instead of trying to drive away, I turn it off and try to start it again. Same thing happens!! So I try it again and finally a normal start. Whew, I thought that was close. But oddly enough my check engine light comes on and stays on this time, no more flashing and the engine feels fine. What the problem could be? Is it safe to drive my car?
2000 Buick Park Avenue 3.8 auto....
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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Let me start with some background. 2001 B5.5 Passat Sedan 1.8T 5spd Completely Stock 156,000 miles. So, tonight i head for the grocery store about 5 minutes up the street. I get about half way there, when I notice that the check engine light is flashing. I ease off the gas, and coax it to the next light. At the light, the car feels like it might stall out, and the car seems to shudder, and I notice that the shudder is connected to the RPM of the motor. Meaning, if i rev the motor the shudder gets faster.
I manage to coax the car home to my driveway, and I leave it in a position easy to be towed. So, i figure that I will leave the car running, and look under the hood, but as soon as I open the drivers door, i can smell something burning/smoldering. I shut off the engine, and carefully open the hood. I find no smoke or fire, but I see that the downpipe (or whatever pipe the exhaust coming from the turbo leaves through) is glowing red hot.
I am not sure what happened. The car gave no other obvious symptoms. The other things I should mention though, are that I change my own oil. Always Mobil 1 with a Audi or at least german filter. However, my father was the original owner, and for the first 60k he used conventional oil. The turbo has always been strong, and seemed to deliver full boost. I do not know if it is still boosting in light of recent events.
For the last few weeks, the check engine light has been on and off. My mechanic scanned it a few times, and told me that it was the "Air Injection Pump Code". My understanding is that this system basically divers exhaust gas into the Cat when the car is warming up. If its not working properly, then it is just a emission problem.
I should also mention, that the car has recently been leaking a little bit of water when there is a hard rain storm. On Saturday, I took the rain tray cover off, checked the Pollen Filter, and removed the battery in order to clear out the drain plugs under the battery tray, and the brake master cylinder. As I write this, I begin to wonder if its possible that something just went very wrong with the Air Injection System.
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