Kia - Rio :: 2004 - Turns Off And Won't Restart
Jul 9, 2014
I have a 2004 kia rio. I just replaced the alternator and got a brand new battery for two days the car ran great besides my stereo not working or over head lights. Then when I was driving home from work i noticed the interior lights started to dim, the check engine light came on, the passenger sea belt light came on and then boom the car just turned right off. I waited a few minutes and tried to restart it and got nothing. I got a jump that lasted a few minutes but the car died again. I've had the battery retested and they say the battery is good. what could be the reason for this happening?
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1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
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I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
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My wife has a 2007 Prius with approx. 110k miles. We installed a new 12V battery approx. 1 1/2 year ago at 81k miles. A few months ago (Mar/Apr), her dash would randomly display the warning lights shown in the 1st image: Brake System, ABS, and VSC (the TPMS light is always on due to faulty tire pressure sensors and appears unrelated).
The car seemed to be driving normally with no abnormal behavior. Whenever this happened, my wife would pull over, turn off the car, and restart - at which points all the warning lights would disappear.
Even though our 12V battery is relatively new, I did check the voltage of that battery using the MFD's on-board diagnostic screens as explained by other posts on this board. Voltage was within the normal range with the HID lights both on and off.
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I've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
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My father in law has an '04 Explorer with the 4.0. He tells me he was coming home from an errand and it stopped dead, like the fuel shut off. I checked the inertia switch and it was ok. He replaced the fuel pump but that didnt fix it either. His description is as follows: when he turns the key, it will start, run about 2 seconds, if that, and shut off. It will not restart, if you want to call it that, unless it sits for a 1/2 hour or so. Then it's the same thing all over again.
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2004 pontiac grand am, after driving and shutting off the car, it will not restart or stalls out while waiting at traffic lights. When I try to restart the car, all I get is clicking sounds, only does this on warm or hot humid days. The dealer told me to just hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine till it restarts. I have tried the turning on the key for a minute, wait, then turn the key back off, and then to restart, but that doesn't work either. If I wait for a good ten minutes, the car usually starts. When I turn on the key I do hear the fuel pump kick in. I have replaced the fuel regulator, ignition switch, keys, computer chip in the ignition system, battery, and starter- twice. I have heard that it could be a crankshaft sensor? No codes are showing up when this happens.
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04 Excursion with 03 motor. I had been getting a no hot restart problem. Now it won't start at all.
FICM 48
rpm around 155-175
ipr goes to 77
icp jumps to 475 and drops back to 400-425
My problem started in Virginia, so I got it started cold and drove all the way home to Indiana without shutting it off. Pretty much been parked since. I've driven it 4-5 times. Now it won't start at all.
I have some LPO problem: I posted it November 2013 [URL] ....
After that I replaced LPO regulator, front cover gasket set, LPO cover (Ford tech said my gearator was fine). I don't think this problem is fixed still
We tried to do a leak down air test. Honestly couldn't hear much of a difference with IPR on vs off. Pulled IPR, found the screen in tact but the plastic pieces that hold it on were all rotted away and broken. I replaced with a brand new IPR to be safe.
I'm not real sure what to look into next. Right now I have both valve covers off and tried to look for a HPO leak in valve covers while cranking. I don't see any oil anywhere coming into the valve train. Shouldn't there be LPO somewhere?
My oil is old now but it was T6 and brand new when this problem first occured. Motorcraft filter but the cap is river city diesel billet cap [URL] ....
Could it be as simple as the oil screen to the HPOP or the check ball in the pump? Can the LPO gauge dropping be related to the no start now? Are there any techs that live in Southern Indiana and want to make some side cash? Last thing I want to do is bring this to the local shop or even worse the dealer. Last time the dealer said they wouldn't touch it because the tuner and EGR delete and the local shop left it sitting for a month and hadn't even touched it.
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I've got an 06 F150, 5.4l crew cab lariat. So to start, I had a programmer screw up my ECU, so when I got it re programmed at ford, everything works except for the ABS sensors. I recently had someone break into my truck and broke my stereo when they couldn't get it out. So I was driving home from work the other day and lost my whole instrument cluster, windows wouldn't roll up or down, wipers worked very slowly until not at all. shut off the truck and wouldn't restart. I jumped it and started it. ran fine. with the exception of the previous problems. I noticed when it got dark out that my my taillights and head lights were on very dimly with the switch off. Also hearing a clicking sound coming from under the truck, at the back of the cab and front of the bed. the only thing electric that's back there is the fuel pump (i believe). I am at a complete loss.
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I have a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero 4 cylinder with 127K miles. After driving for a period of 30 to 45 minutes, it will cut off and it takes 30 minutes to an hour before it will restart. I have had the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, ignition control module, coil pack and computer replaced and I am still having the same problem. What might be causing this?
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I know this noise is the Thermos Pump and it operates when I turn the car on and off. Question - is it failing - also a really annoying noise, but I'll put up with it as long as nothing's breaking.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 and it makes 550 horsepower and lately when I go to started in the morning it'll start at once everything gets up to temperature if I shut it off it will not start again without starting fluid into the air box if it's warm...
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I was driving my truck down my driveway and it just shut off, it will not start, when I turn on the key the fuel pump will not run and when I try to start it the engine will not turn over. Neither the starter or fuel pump relay click. When I turn the key to the on position all the lights and radio still work. When the key is on the small red light on top of the dash begins to flash rapidly. My boss tried to hook his snap-on scanner to the obd2 port but it will not let him retrieve any of the codes and continuously tells him to cycle the key through the on and off positions giving zero results.
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2006 price with going back - rest about 105K miles on it. Recently the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with all the warning lights. Battery fan runs non-stop as soon as the car is started and if driven, the gas engine never turns off. When it happened I was circling the neighborhood looking for parking. After about 5 minutes the car dropped out of drive and wouldn't go back in until I shut down and restarted. The battery still charges, and holds a charge when left parked. What is most likely the culprit before I bring it in this afternoon? The dealer is 3.5 miles away (about 15-minute drive in Chicago). Am I risking further damage driving it in? Should I call for a tow?
Update: A check of the inverter coolant reservoir shows that coolant is flowing. Ripples on the surface.
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A couple of days ago, I was about to take a long road trip. Stopped to top off gas tank (yes, I squeezed the handle a few more times than I probably should have). Restarted and drove about 300 feet. Master Warning light, check engine light, brake light and pretty car with ! in the display all came on. Drove home - car ran fine but the hybrid battery seemed to stay full, switched cars, got home the next afternoon, started car again -- all lights still on. Checked gas cap (just in case), brake fluid is between full and low, coolant is probably a little low.
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i started my '04 prius (~110k miles) this morning, went back into the house to grab a few things, & then I started hearing a loud rattling sound from the engine for a few seconds before the engine died.
The dash and MFD lite up with these symbols in the attached images.
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I have a 2004 6.0 that has been pissing me off to no end lately. I has a random dying/no start problem. If it idles for ten minutes, it'll die sometimes. And if I drive it and shut it off, it won't restart sometimes. I just drove it three hours on Friday, shut it off and it restarted immediately. Drove it around town all weekend and it started fine every time.
Now driving it home and stopped for fuel 45 minutes in, and it won't start. I have all sensor readings in spec except for I have no ficm sync while cranking. I have about 5k miles on new hpop, injectors, ipr valve, icp sensor, oil rail rebuilds, stand pipes, ficm and engine harness and injector harness. No codes either. If it sits for a couple hours it'll start fine. I've wiggled as many wires as I can and it still won't start. I have rpm while cranking on my edge too. Don't know if that would rule out crank sensor or cam sensor.
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It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
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My truck ran great when I got to my house that I turned it off and tried turning it on again it wouldn't turn on I check the fuel pump it works I checked the injector if it was getting fuel it was .I'm a stand still, where else to check? What to do?
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i have a 04 f250 with the 5.4 gas motor, yesterday i changed the fuel pump in it, after we were done we started it up ran fine turned it off went to go start it again nothing, and yes i already checked the inertia switch under the passenger kick panel.
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I have a late model 2004 F-350 6.0 powerstroke. 182K miles. Auto Transmission
What happened. Condensed version
Left house, drove out to highway, got on highway. Everything feels normal.
About 1 mile of going 70mph, I notice I can no longer accelerate. after 1/2 mile, I begin loosing speed, and engine will not rev past 1000 rpm. I eventually pull over (another mile), put in neutral and will not rev past 1000. put in drive and start to idle to highway exit. it gets about another .5 mile and begin going up a hill when it completely dies. Will not restart.
No prior issues with the truck. Full tank of fuel.
What I have tested so far. Ficm 48.5 volts cranking. Icp .225V KOEO, .875V Cranking. LPOP is registering pressure on the dash. No Fault codes.
I have gotten it to start twice now, one time it allowed me to rev to 750 rpm, where i used 4 low to make it onto a trailer. second time would not rev at all. idling at 250-300 rpm.
That same night as it died, I drained the transmission pan/ TP filter and filled with 8.5 Quarts of Mercon LV. This is the first time I have done this since purchasing @ 161K miles. Everything seemed normal, no leaks present.
Also my buddy showed me how to enter the dash test mode and we cycled through these. Not sure if this is relevant.
So, What do I test next? I don't think its HPOP issue since the ICP is reading .875 volts at crank. I did unplug the ICP and it still would not start. I don't think its the injector side of the ficm because they buzz as normal with koeo, but this is a possibility as I don't have equipment to test. Egr valve is clean for age of truck.
Would it be possible that the Mercon LV knocked crud loose in the transmission causing it to fail/seize? would siezed tranny cause the engine to behave in this manner?
Fuel bowl on top of the engine was full of fuel. I have not pressure tested it yet as I can hear the pump running during key on.
could i have a bad crank or cam sensor?
Multi-injector failure?
Bad Icp with HPO failure?
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