Kia - Rio :: 2002 - Die With All Electrical Parts Shuts Off?
Jun 2, 2011
Recently my KIA Rio 2002 has been having this electrical problem, where when I hear the motor change pitch, I can turn the key to the acc. where only the radio would be on, but during this not only will the motor stop, but all the electrical parts will shut off and won't come back on until I turn the key all the way off and then back on. Then yesterday while it was raining, I pulled out of a parking space and got about 40 yards when I lost all electricity, but my motor sounded like it was still turning a bit. After trying twice to restart the car by turning it all the way off then back on, the car started and acted like nothing had happened, but my radio had to be reprogrammed.I'd think that the motor pitch change could mean an alternator problem, but my battery is still charging. The loss of electrical could mean that there's a bad switch. But the latest problem seems to be a short in the system.
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02 Chevy 3500 quits while driving, all electrical shuts off. This is my work van, I am a Honda mechanic and can't figure it out. I need my truck for work on Monday! Think it might be ignition switch??
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I have a 2002 Honda accord (161k) This summer the entire electrical system would briefly shut down. I could keep driving and the engine never completely quit but it just blinked off and then back on. It seems to do it more in hot weather.
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Less than two weeks ago I had the fuel pump replaced and battery terminals replaced on my 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition (not turbo.) I have almost 90,000 miles and have had very few minor issues all these years.Car stalled while driving, towed it to mechanic, he diagnoses fuel pump failure. So I had him replace fuel pump, and while I was there had battery terminals replaced, since I've dealt with some pesky corrosion recently.
I've never had electrical problems with this car. So here I am a week after repair, I'm driving and hear an electrical pop in the dash, then the radio turns off and back on within a few seconds. Nothing else happened, I chalk it up to a fluke and keep going. Well it happened again yesterday! Exact same "pop" then radio turns off, comes back on in 2-3 seconds.
Both events happened during the day, so I don't know yet if my headlights had been on, would this "pop" have affected lights too? Perhaps.
So what I'd like to know is: when the mechanic was replacing the fuel pump and battery terminals, do those repairs involve him messing with wiring at all? Could he have left a grounding wire disconnected? I've read a little about the fuel pump relay, but I have not been able to confirm that 2006 PT Cruiser has a fuel pump relay. ? Any other theories on what could be shorting out, creating an electrical "pop"?
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While driving 1 of 3 issues occur... radio will click off for 2 seconds, entire dash turns off for 2 seconds (car continues to run), or all electric clicks off and car shuts off. If left to sit for a few minutes car will restart. Will occur a bunch of times in one trip and then not for a week. Does not seem to depend on type of driving or weather conditions. Honda cant seem to figure out and until the yesterday they blew me off. Yesterday, the anti-theft actually locked out the radio, so at least they could see "something" occurred.
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My '02 F250 Diesel shut down and would not start while I was pulling a 20' gooseneck trailer in August of 2012. After approximately an hour it started and I drove it home. Took it to repair shop and I had them change the fuel filter (although no lights came on in truck) and they told me they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Then for a couple of months while driving it would shut down while driving and as soon as I released the pedal it would run again. In November 2012 it again shut down while I was driving and would not start. The next day it started and I took it to another repair shop. They checked it and said they couldn't find anything wrong. I drove it home (30 miles) and it shut off briefly a couple of times, but we made it. I've driven it a few times over the winter and it had no problems. Then yesterday, the first day over 50 degrees since last fall, I drove it and it shut off, would not start, and I had it towed back home. It appears there are multiple posts about this issue (on the internet) with these trucks and their stories are very much the same. I'm about to give up on this truck.
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What could be involved? I heard something about crank sensor or a TBA taking part on this.
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I have a 2002 Alero with 124,000 miles and it's been giving me problems lately. Sometimes while I'm driving my car just shuts off. Radio still on and lights work, but the car just stops running. There are days where I can start my car with no problems and there are days where my vehicle doesn't start at all for days/weeks. I've taken my car to two different shops and they didn't find anything wrong with it but as soon as I got it back it started doing the same thing again. What is wrong with this car or what I need to do?
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I'm having this issue with my 2002 camry, but it won't start, so i can take it to a mechanic, and a house call is too expensive.
The car starts at almost 3000 rpm for a few seconds then white smoke starts coming out of the front and back... the front seems to be from the front catalytic converter . Then the car starts stalling and finally shuts off
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I have a 2002 trailblazer with the V6 engine. while driving it will say on the message center POWERING DOWN. the engine shuts off and after coasting to a stop its like the battery is dead. It wont shift into park and the key cant be removed from the key switch. thinking that it was a battery or alternator problem I had both replaced. And it done the same thing the last time it was driven. Had it towed home, connected a battery charger to it to boost it and it allowed me to cut the ignition to the off position and remove the key. What could be wrong with it?
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As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
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Whats going on with my 2002 SC430. Every time someone (valet) puts the key in the door to unlock it, the car completely shuts down. The remote won't work. The only way to get it going again is to have the door popped open. This sets off the alarm but once the key is in the ignition and started, it's all good. What is going on and how to correct this?
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For the past year, my 2002 Ranger Edge runs fine, but the last few months after running errands, the truck will fire up and then seems like fuel is gone and the truck shuts off. When I try to restart the truck, it just cranks over and over. If I wait a few minutes, it will fire up again. It never shuts down while driving the vehicle, only at start up. I can hear the hum of the fuel pump and no indicator lights on the dash, etc.... It has 83,000 miles on it. I've taken it to a few different repair shops, including the dealer and they can't repeat the problem or tell me what's wrong. I've replaced the IAC, mass flow air sensor, replaced the plugs, plug wires, coil pack, alternator, fuel filter and am still having the problem.
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Thinking about picking up a 2002 Regal. Major issue: it will not start without turning the lights on first and will shut off when the wipers are turned on.
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Having problems with the truck - either a no crank situation and now a complete shut down while driving at any speed.
Dash is blank with no power when truck shuts down, here is the hitch with the no crank, I pulled and replaced the PCM module and the truck fired up without hesitation. I had to do this a few times over the course of today to get home. I can live with having to do that for a while but it is unnerving to have the truck shut down with 0 notice.
Throttle body was just cleaned, and all starter/battery connections cleaned and protected. Brand new PCM relay. What does this relay have to do with reset, for clean start up after removing it and then just putting it back in it's place? Would there be any solutions for the dies completely while driving, or fails to crank?
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This started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
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I just recently bought my 2002 F250 Lariat with the 5.4 and 76 thousand miles. I love this truck but I've started to notice a few things with it. When i go to start the truck it sometimes starts but then instantly shuts off. When i try it again it takes a long time to crank over. This has happened in cold and warm weather. What the problem could be and things i could do to prevent it?
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2009 Camry SE V6
103,000 miles
New Monroe OESpectrum struts installed by Sears Auto in July, with new alignment. Original springs were not replaced.
Soon after I heard a clunk. Sears tightened a strut mount a week later. Clunk went away.
New Kumho Ecstas installed and balanced a week later.
Still hearing clunk sounds from front end, take it back to Sears to inspect the struts and suspension. They tell me struts must be removed and inspected. They ended up not removing the struts but they replaced the sway bar end links and bushings, which they said were in bad shape. Steering is a bit tighter now.
Im still hearing clunk sounds from front end. Now theyre louder. I get a clunk every time I brake in traffic or a parking lot. I also get a clunk when the car goes over a bumpy road without brakes applied. So doesnt appear related to brakes, calipers, and whatnot.
I can feel the clunk in the steering wheel. Sounds like two loose parts rubbing against each other which shouldn't be rubbing against each other.
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Any references/blue print to locate part number for the engine bay?
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It was the sway-bar bushings... Now with all the new parts up front and the bushings it rides better than new. Case closed.
I replaced the following
- Struts (shocks, springs, mounts)
- Control arms (bushings, ball joints)
- End links
And i still have clunks from the front end and now magically my left outer CV boot is ripped!
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I have about 200k on my forester. Friday when I was leaving work I cranked it up and it made a loud knocking sort of sound. I drove it home (about 15 miles) and on the way the sound lessened. It was louder when the car was idling but she made it home ok. Next day, started the car and it happened again. Not more than 50 feet up the road we stopped at a stop sign and it sounded like a semi was starting up around the corner. Much to my dismay it was not a semi but my own car. Engine shut off. We pushed it back to the house and tried to check it out the next day. This time, we started it, didn't go anywhere, and within 30 seconds it turned off. Same loud knocking sort of sound. The confusing part is that all of this happened within two days. There was no gentle sound leading up to it for a few weeks or even a few days. Knocked on Friday, shut off on Saturday. What could be going on?
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