Jimmy :: 95 Vehicle Hard To Start And Then Stalls
Jan 15, 2012
Well this just started a couple of days ago and has gotten worse would start just fine and idle fine put in gear and I have little to no throttle if you give it to much would stall out but would start right up now it s hard as can be to start like 15-20 minutes to start others starting fluid and will idle great but same thing go to drive little to no throttle I can hear fuel pump priming it was changed over summer as filter and have replaced so many parts ...
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95 jimmy change the heater core now won't start...
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I have a 2013 Prius with 15k miles, and this happened to me recently for the first time:
- Drove 40 miles
- 24 hours of inactivity
- Drove a very short distance, maybe for 60 seconds, just enough for the ICE to start
- 48 hours inactivity
- Start car, ICE starts, but sputters and sounds like an old, sick lawnmower, and dies after 3-4 seconds. The "check hybrid system" warning is displayed, and I read a P3191 DTC
- Turn off car, repeat three more times, and by the third time, the warning lights went away, and the ICE runs fine again now.
I took the car to a Toyota dealer, and they told me that they didn't see any problems. A friend of mine had the exact same problem with a 2012 Prius, after the same scenario (3 days inactivity with a 60 second trip in the middle of the inactive period).
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My 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat GLS 1.8T, and I'm having a very odd problem with it... I have trouble starting it, almost like the starter is going out, then it starts and runs fine, then I'll be driving and the screen on the gauge cluster will say stop and I'll start getting a beep, if I don't stop the car dies, if I do then it just sort of putters for a second and then goes back to normal, when it dies it loses all power completely everything shuts off then it resets. At first I thought it was the starter, then it started doing this.
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Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
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Our new '64 Corvair Turbo car had been running pretty smooth, but occasionally stalls and can be hard to start. There has been noticeable flooding out of the carb bowl (single barrel Carter going into turbo). It has an electric choke that seems to be working correctly. The choke butterfly is closed when cold and opens as it gets warm.
Friday we drove to next town and it ran perfectly smooth but stalled when we got there, was very hard to start and ran super rough all the way home. It would not idle, had to hand brake at stops to keep from dying. It was normal temprature (400 degrees). Choke was wide open.
The next morning I started it easy, choke on (closed), but when it got warm it stalled and died. Then flooded fuel out of bowl.
I am only guessing... but seem like carb is tuned to run cold with choke on and is either running terribly lean or rich once it is at temperature.
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I have a 2000 gmc jimmy 300.000 km 4.3 vortec .starts ok, even when cold idle smooth but when I accelerate past 2000 rpm it has a complete loss of power. I bought a fuel pressure tester key on 2 seconds 60 psi when I start the vehicle and running 55 psi. I took it on a road test it stays at 55 psi and has a hard acceleration and will go to 60 psi ,and then starts to break up my first question is how can I block off the return line to the tank, there's no rubber hose in any of the connections just steel lines and hard plastic with push connectors, is there a plug that you can buy or how I can block off the return to see if the pump will build pressure to 75 psi to 80 psi will this will tell me whether the pressure regulator is faulty or the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
I have a manual its a Haynes for chevy blazer gmc from 95 to 2004 it says with central sequential fuel injections (csefi) key on engine not running it should be approx 55-61 psi the engines running at idle it should decrease through 3 to 10 psi according to this manual i am within range but i have read on other posts that it should be 60-65 would you say that my 55 psi reading is okay? or should it be 60-65? also when i blocked the return line should i get a reading of 75 or higher? if the reading goes up does that mean that the fuel regulator is faulty? and if it doesn't go up does that confirm that the fuel pump is the issue?
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As a follow up to my problem of intermittent stall and hard start, it is getting more pronounced. Now, every once in a while, it will start. Mostly it will not start.
This morning I connected an OBD2 meter with the key on and engine off. It told me that there are no DTC's. As I was attempting to run enhanced DTC's the code reader lost link with the computer. The connection icon was on but it lost the link. At one point, after several tries, I got the link back but it didn't last too long before it was lost again.
This is the same symptom that I have with running the engine. It will run and then shut off. After a hard start, it will start and run just fine and then shut off again.
My question is this. Can I still have power to the PCM and loose power to the processor? Is there a fuse or relay that could be causing this problem? If not, could the problem be a faulty PCM.
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2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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I have a 96 GMC Jimmy that will not start..... I have replaced the spider fuel injector and now I get the right fuel pressure. I have random non regular spark that is very week. I have replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, cam sensor, the ECM, and the ignition control module. The crank sensor checked out to be good. I do not know where else to check...
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I have taken to mechanic- no codes, all reads well. have changed fuel filter, checked fuel pump, spark plugs, battery fairly new. after it rains, it cranks-engine shakes-wants to start but wont. Almost like gas or ignition will not kick in. if sunny, ok- This only happens after it rains..
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My husband recently bought a used '99 GMC Jimmy 4x4. Recently he has discovered that there is a problem cranking it. If the temperature dips below 40-45 degrees or if it is humid the Jimmy won't start. When the key is turned you can hear the starter trying to start it. It acts like a carborated vehicle flooding out. You can smell gas and if the hood is popped, and the air filter is removed you can see gas smoke coming out of the air filter location. This only happens when it won't crank. On warm or clear days, it cranks just fine and there is no gas smell or hesitation.
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So, I recently bought a 99.5 Jetta. (99 with a 00 body), fixes a few things. Alternator, oil pan, head gasket. I recently drove the car just up the road, drove it back. Went to pull in to my spot and it shut off! Wouldn't start but would crank over. Days go by, same problem. Runs for about 10 minutes then just dies. Fuel pump works, fuel filter isn't clogged. And the fuel relay works.
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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?
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My father tried to jump start my 1994 GMC Jimmy and it began smoking at the jumper cables and battery. We removed the cables. The battery was completely dead. So we went to get a new battery. Now the car has no power whatsoever. No lights, and will not even attempt to turn over. I was told that the car may be dead, for good. That perhaps the electrical is fried. Is there anything I can check to see if this is not the case. Do I need to check the alternator, or change the fusable link?
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2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
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What is the problem need to fix have limited fundage....
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1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
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Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
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