Jimmy :: 93 - Backfiring And Shuddering / Whining From Rear And Truck Dies
Aug 11, 2013
So, I've already made a few threads on this particular truck (4.3L fuel injected 93 jimmy.) My main problem was big backfiring and shuddering after driving for 30 minutes or so. After it began to act up like that I would park, and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Upon, restart it wouldn't turn on right away and I would have to hold the key down until it slowly came back to life quietly (quietly as in I would have to guess when the truck was started because I couldn't tell when I had the key down). Another thing to note about the prior sentence is once you coaxed it back to life and killed it to restart again it would fire up fine. Well here are the repairs I have made so far: New alternator, temp sender, couple sparkplugs and I mean to change the rest, and a fuel filter. I changed the temp sender and fuel filter today, and the backfiring has seemed to stop as well as acceleration being smoother and not quite so fast on the deceleration.
In other words, the power increase from a new fuel filter was noticeable (water really won't run through the old one and I had to really blow on the end to get air to come out so obviously clogged up.) The problem of holding the key down to restart also vanished but popped up with a new one instead. Rather than force it to come back to life the truck will just kill itself within 5 seconds upon restart once or twice after sitting for 10 minutes before it actually stays on to be able to drive. Right before it kills itself the fuel pump (I am assuming) has it's normal whine but suddenly gets loud and the car dies and in text form it sounds something like this mmm and dies. Now my step father said he replaced it about 2 years ago. and a year of that it sat because of tranny problems that have been fixed. One more thing of note is an extremely faint *pop*.....*pop pop*... *pop* from the exhaust. The pop is only really noticeable when standing outside and near the vehicle.
The startup problems ONLY occur when letting it sit for 5 minutes or more. If I run it for a while, park it, and immediately restart it starts perfect, but not when sitting.
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1997 Jimmy, 4.3 ... This has gone on for two years and over two grand. I am slowly going insane. When it starts, it runs GREAT...but if it is moist outside, it is not going to happen...can crank it til the battery dies. I have replaced: spark plugs, fuel pump, MAF Sensor, distributor cap and rotor, stupid poppet fuel injection, battery x 2, and the ignition switch. It used to pull a random misfire code, but now has NO codes. I have been through five garages and four really good at home mechanics. When it is not starting, it has spark at the plugs and good fuel pressure. Last mechanic wanted to do a second fuel pump with the new injection system...I swear I think it is because I am a girl.
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Just got a 1990 k1500 with the 4.3 v6 and 5 speed and it backfires. A buddy told me it was shooting flames out of my exhaust. What does that mean?
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'02 Ranger XLT, extended cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC, 5-speed manual, 114K miles.
Problem has occurred twice. After extended run time and engine fully heated, when I get home and shut it down, then attempt to restart within a short period of time, the engine starts very briefly, then begins shuddering violently and dies within a few seconds. Re-attempts to start result in a very shuddering attempt to run for a couple seconds, and then it dies. After a couple of re-attempts, it doesn't even attempt to start; just cranks over with no results. Has to sit about 7-8 hours before it will restart.
No OBD II codes; Passed, no codes shown. I purchased a crank position sensor, but haven't installed it yet: just a stab in the dark after hearing other people's experiences with other vehicles.
First occurrence followed a lengthy trip in heavy stop-and-go traffic. Shut it down when I got home, then attempted to re-start after a few minutes to run a short errand. Sat for two days without any re-attempts; then restarted and ran fine on first try a couple days later.
Second occurrence followed a couple hours of hitting yard sales with the neighbor, in which time I did not shut the truck down; just left it idling while we perused the sales, for fear it wouldn't re-start. Reckon it's a good thing I did, 'cause when we got home and I shut it down and attempted to leave again shortly thereafter, it malfunctioned as described.
Retries failed after sitting 4-5 hours, but after eleven hours of sitting, it started right up and ran normally.
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E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 2.5l, 4 cyl. Not long after the truck was purchased, there was a recall for the EGR valve, we took it in had that replaced, no issues. Well 2 years ago we had the P0401 code pop up, we replaced the DPFE and it seemed to fix things. Well a couple of weeks ago the code popped up again, we erased it and it came back a week or 2 later, along with the truck shuddering when the engine is cold. My husband said once the engine warms up the shuddering goes away. To make it more complicated it doesn't always shudder like that, seems to be intermittent. What could cause this problem? Does it sound like the DPFE again? Or something else we are missing?
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2003 Saturn Vue V. 61,000 miles. Drives ,steers and turns normally except when you do a very tight 360 circle. Tremendous grinding sound and shuddering coming from the rear of the vehicle. Return to driving a straight line and everything returns to normal. What is the issue and what would it cost to repair?
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My Jeep makes a whining noise and sounds like a diesel truck. In the morning when I back out of my garage and reverse down a little way the noise is there. When I then drive off, the noise gets even louder. As I drive, the diesel noise seems to stop. The whining noise fluctuates. The whining noise started when my mechanic put in a new tensioner. He insists that the problem is the compressor. Twice he has removed the belt and checked everything and he says there is nothing wrong with the car except the compressor. T he air conditioner mechanic says it is not because the ac works well. He said that he has seen quite a few Patriots with this problem but he cannot tell me what it is because the people never come back to tell him what the problem was. I play the cd and the radio loud to drown out the noise so my husband who had a stroke does not have to listen to the noise.
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My buddies truck runs fine, but when he floors it he says it dies out. Like it shuts off. Lets off the throttle n it comes back.
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I have a 97 2500 454 it dies like you trun the key off, but there is still power to turn the engine over but the truck wont start, and after a couple of tries it will start. It might go for a week and not do it or it might go a couple of miles.
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My truck is having a problem lately where it will suddenly die while driving. It feels like it loses either spark or fuel and happens about 20-30 minutes after I drive it. Once it dies you can turn the key off and restart it and it will fire up and run again, for how long I'm not sure because I'm almost home about that time. It has a fairly new fuel pump, 2 years old, a fuel filter the same age, new cap and rotor, new air filter, probably could use some new plugs. I replaced the TPS with an older one that I had laying around and had no change in performance. I get a 34 and 43 code (MAP and knock sensor) when I do a diagnostic on it.My question is do you think a MAP sensor or knock sensor would cause this kind of failure before I go out and buy them? I'm leaning towards the MAP sensor but not sure that it would have this kind of an effect on the engine.
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I am not the sharpest tool in the box. I was driving my 1979 f250 with a full load of fire wood going about 45mph when I shifted it from drive to reverse (I thought I was in 1st) the truck mad a loud whining sound then refused to go on. Now when I shift it in gear it feels like it wants to move and if I revved up high it will rock back and forth. A friend jacked up the rear end with the wheels off the ground the tiers spun in all gears including park and I was told they could stop the wheels by hand with the car in drive. He then took the cover off the rear end and found it to be low on fluid but no signs of damage. What I broke?
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I have a 1998 gmc sierra 2500 truck when i start it it runs just fine but after i have driven it awhile when i go to stop as soon as i come to a stop the engine revs up and down and it dies it will not do it if i am in neutral or the engine is cold, what could be causing that....
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I bought a 97 F150 4x4 from a guy who had left it to die after the tranny went out. I worked a good portion of the day getting the tranny out, but the truck has another issue. It was manufactured with a 4.6. PO blew her up and put in what he said was a used 5.4 with 88K miles on it. It idles really good and sounds great until you touch the accelerator. It nearly dies then rev's high. I put fluid in the tranny and it wouldn't move in forward but would in reverse. Same thing in gear. Touch the pedal and it nearly dies then revs high!
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I noticed my truck makes a high pitched whining noise. It does it at idle and while acceleration up to 40 mph or so. The pitch of the wine increases with RPM'S. It is not the cold start whine issue I have researched on YouTube.
It is in the cold or warmth. No difference. It's always there. My 2012 6.2 did not sound like this at all. I have crawled under the truck and it appears like it is coming from the transmission.
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It is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.
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I know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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So pulling my trailer and 4x4 and the truck dies without any other symptoms. No check engine light all other electrical remains working. This happened 6 times this trip always while pulling a grade but only after the truck has been running for a few hours. Each time, no warning and once the truck has set for 5 to 10 minutes it start up like normal. The longer i let it set the longer I can run before it does it again. ICP is 550ish at idle, 200ish while cranking. Check the FICM before the trip and it was at 47.5 to 48.5v key on engine off and running. STC, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ball cups have all been done.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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The problem : I bought a 2004 Ranger truck and after two days it started to hiccup, or stall or die while driving, then because the truck is manual, just start up and keep running. It was the strangest thing.
I gave it to a shop, and after checking the electrical, the ignition, the fuel system, the drive train, and ten hours of troubleshooting, they came up without an answer. So they gave me the truck back.
Answer, a few days after taking it back:
I had told the shop that it had been sitting for 6 months, May till January, but when I told a mechanic friend a bit later, he still suggested 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze in the tank, before the next tank fill. I did that, and there was some improvement.
Next, When I replaced the balding tires with new Nokian Winter tires, the tire shop, (Kal Tire), told me that the air cleaner was incredibly dirty, and asked me if I would like them to replace it. I said yes, thinking that it might just do the trick, as no one in the forums I read, had mentioned it.
Success! No hiccup or stalling and it has not died since.
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