Jimmy :: 1998 SLE Starts But Then Stalls When It Settles Down To Idle RPM
Jun 3, 2012
My 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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Yesterday I drove 15 minutes to a store and came out after 15 minutes. With no previous problems, I put the key in the ignition and there was no power at all. I checked the battery and it appeared ok. I opened the fuse box, not really knowing what I was looking for, and it looked dirty with no obvious signs of something wrong, I think. About 5 minutes later the car's power came back on but once started it idled very low and died. I tried it again and kept giving it gas and it kept idleing low and would shut off. I made it home without having to stop the car at all, meaning made all lights and no stop signs, I didnt run anything. At home I turned the car off and back on and everything ran fine. Car idled normally, would start up every time, and I drove around the block without incident. I've read information in the forum about the low idle and stall but didnt see anything that referenced the complete lack of power before the idle problem started.
2002 Toyota Camry LE, 128,000 miles.
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When I start my '03 Corolla its idle speed is around 1200 and later after driving for a few miles it settles down to around 700. Other than that it starts well and runs smoothly. I tried to back off the idle adjustment screw and found out that the screw was barely touching the stop. In older models I used to be able to fix or repair the cold idle in engines with a carburetor, but am totally clueless regarding fuel injectors. This condition also happens when I start the car during the middle of Texas summer (100+ deg).
The car has 123,000 miles. I have not ever changed the plugs, but as i mentioned the engine starts and runs smoothly. As expected, the idle speed responds well whenever the air conditioner is turned on. The engine temperature comes to the mid gauge as always after driving a mile or so. No engine check lights come on. The car always passes the annual smog inspection.
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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l have a 98 s10 with the "x" code 4.3l. While driving the cel started flashing and it lost all power. after got home i scanned the codes and revealed a MAF sensor error. replaced the maf sensor, which did not work. Then replaced the cap, rotor, and wires as they were burned through. This made the truck run fine when given gas, but makes a knocking sound at idle and stalls.
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I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
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Well this just started a couple of days ago and has gotten worse would start just fine and idle fine put in gear and I have little to no throttle if you give it to much would stall out but would start right up now it s hard as can be to start like 15-20 minutes to start others starting fluid and will idle great but same thing go to drive little to no throttle I can hear fuel pump priming it was changed over summer as filter and have replaced so many parts ...
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I have a 99 jimmy replaced rotary button, cap, plugs, wires. The truck doesn't seem to run right. It idles fine but when in load it starts to sputter a bit. Going down the road between 2000 and 2500 rpms the tach jumps a bit. Now if I put it to the floor the truck runs out fine.
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Why will my 98 Jimmy not shift into 3rd, or 4th gear? It is an automatic 4L60E transmission. It all started on a trip to Gatlinburg, TN. It felt like it was slipping when shifting into 3rd, intermittently for several months before finally failing completely to shift into these gears. What is going on here?
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I have a 1998 Jimmy 4x4 sls. The problem I have is at 2000 rpm the battery light comes on starts dipping bad alt shuts off and it drops from 14.2 to 12.2. After you release the throttle its starts charging again below 1500 rpms. It has done this with a stock alternator and a 190 amp alternator rebuilt alt. Two different batterys two batterys hooked up at once or indivisually. I pulled the duralast battery looking for grounding issues. I found a severed ground off the three factory grounds. I stripped it replised it then the engine warmed up again the same thing. It has one orange wire going to the regulator ared 10 gauge to the battery.
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I picked up a 98 jimmy for my son and turns out it has many issues! The one I'm tackling now is the 4wd. Front wheels don't engage "unless you can't tell on these on dry pavement just to test it, but I don't feel it "crab walking" when turning.
Things I've done so far ..... New transfer case vacuum switch, replaced any tore vac lines "I had Hvac issue which is corrected now that I've done this" replaced cable to actuator under battery. It's a 3 button switch and lights appropriately when selecting 4hi or 4lo.
I can hear it engage and disengage and also hear the tccm click when I push the buttons. The cable pulls the actuator and the actuator moves and holds as it should which leads me to believe everything is working but why aren't the front wheels engaging??
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
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I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy and until now we had little to no heat. In the morning when we first leave the house in the cold as we are speeding up we slip into neutral and we either have to pull over or shift the shifter into neutral and back to get it going again. We only notice this happening when it is very cold. How do we fix this before it becomes a bigger problem?
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We have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
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2002 BMW 325i. It starts then stalls. It stalled in the middle of the road the other day while I was going REAL slow. Now it's totally unreliable. If it starts it leaves me stranded. Turn over just fine never engages.
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I've had this intermittent issue for a while where the car won't start properly. What seems to happen to me is that it starts properly, but then immediately stalls. Normally during a start it will start at about 1200rpm then quickly idle back to under 1000 and then slowly reduce some more. Now at about the same time as I would expect it to idle back to 1000rpm it stalls. After this happens, it seems like I can keep reproducing the failed start over and over again if I try to start the car again. If I wait 30 seconds or so and then try to start it, it usually works.
On two or three occasions I got a warning on the dash about faulty steering lock. Checking in VAG the only errors shown are related to those, no other codes. This has happened many times over the course of perhaps two months. It's been colder during this period, but generally it seems the error happens more often when its a little warmer weather and not really cold. Lately I've been inserting the key part way, waiting a few instants for things to initialize and then starting and it seems to work every time.
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So about a week ago I took my car to the stealership for the coolant gauge needle. Whenever I started the car in the past, the needle jumps right up and eventually settles at 190. At the time however, it just wouldn't budge on startup. After each startup,(5-10 min of driving), the needle would slowly but surely make it's way up to 190.
So I took it there and they replaced the system (I'll get the service receipt posted up soon) and it solved the problem for a day.
Now, a few days after, it's doing the same bs again. I'm going to take it there AGAIN soon to check it out. Just wish they could get it right the first time [/rant] .
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2010 gti 70k miles, has a Cai and tbe. Twice now when I've started the car (both times after driving for at least 25 miles) it starts up I go to drive and it stalls within 50 feet. It'll turn over but stall again after a rough idle for a few seconds..the only "fix" I've found is it if let the car sit for a couple hours and come back then it starts and runs fine.. I don't have a tune yet would not being tuned cause this.
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Car has 6600 miles on it and is back in the shop for 2nd time to determine what is wrong. Basically, the car starts and then stalls out after a few seconds. It will not start again (at least with me). Course, the dealer can get it started after the tow to them.It began in April after an oil change at the dealer. A week after the change, it started up and then a message SHUT DOWN appeared on the dash.
The car stalled and would not restart. When it was towed to the dealer, it had no oil. Per the dealer, there was no leak and it was assumed the tech forgot to put oil in it, They indicated it was not a problem since there was some oil remaining but the car would still not start. They kept it a few days and replaced the relay for the fuel modulator, electronic fuel pump, fuel unit, fuel pump control unit, e-control unit and of course the battery. Note: this was a cold start.
About a month later, I had driven the car for about 30 minutes, left it for an hour and came back to the car.....it stalled again right after start up and would not restart. After being on hold with roadside assistance for awhile, I tried it again and it started without issue. .
A week later (today), used it for a half hour, came back to use it 3 hours later and same story. Started, then stalled, no restart. Towed it to the dealer and the tech got it started but no codes telling him what is wrong.
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