Jimmy :: 1998 4wd - Front Wheels Don't Engage
Dec 15, 2015
I picked up a 98 jimmy for my son and turns out it has many issues! The one I'm tackling now is the 4wd. Front wheels don't engage "unless you can't tell on these on dry pavement just to test it, but I don't feel it "crab walking" when turning.
Things I've done so far ..... New transfer case vacuum switch, replaced any tore vac lines "I had Hvac issue which is corrected now that I've done this" replaced cable to actuator under battery. It's a 3 button switch and lights appropriately when selecting 4hi or 4lo.
I can hear it engage and disengage and also hear the tccm click when I push the buttons. The cable pulls the actuator and the actuator moves and holds as it should which leads me to believe everything is working but why aren't the front wheels engaging??
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I have a 2006 XLT w/ the 5.4L engine. Manual transfer case, I'm wondering where to start looking for problems w/ the 4x4...the front wheels don't engage.
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2006 Lariat 4x4 Troubleshooting. My front wheels wont engage when I select 4H or 4L. No dash lights are ever lit.
I read up and understand how the system works and plan to replace the solenoid, transfer case motor and both hub actuators. I swapped out the solenoid and wanted to test that it was functioning properly so I followed the video below:
YouTube........
With the engine running and selector switch at 2WD, I pull the vacuum lines off and can feel vacuum at the supply. I then hook up just the supply line up (to the bottom port) and expect to feel vacuum at the other solenoid port (top port - what I would call the outlet) and cannot feel any vacuum.
This has halted my repair attempts as I am not convinced this is functioning and would pull in the actuators if they were functional. I know it's a small vacuum from a small orifice but I would think I should feel it by hand, no?
The solenoid's electrical connector is plugged in during this as well. I get the same performance with the old solenoid and the new. If I bypass the solenoid I can feel vacuum at the front wheel hubs.
Should I try a third solenoid? Seems unlikely I would have 2 bad ones...No OBDII codes at all. What to try next?
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When I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
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Why will my 98 Jimmy not shift into 3rd, or 4th gear? It is an automatic 4L60E transmission. It all started on a trip to Gatlinburg, TN. It felt like it was slipping when shifting into 3rd, intermittently for several months before finally failing completely to shift into these gears. What is going on here?
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I have a 1998 Jimmy 4x4 sls. The problem I have is at 2000 rpm the battery light comes on starts dipping bad alt shuts off and it drops from 14.2 to 12.2. After you release the throttle its starts charging again below 1500 rpms. It has done this with a stock alternator and a 190 amp alternator rebuilt alt. Two different batterys two batterys hooked up at once or indivisually. I pulled the duralast battery looking for grounding issues. I found a severed ground off the three factory grounds. I stripped it replised it then the engine warmed up again the same thing. It has one orange wire going to the regulator ared 10 gauge to the battery.
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My 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
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98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
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I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy and until now we had little to no heat. In the morning when we first leave the house in the cold as we are speeding up we slip into neutral and we either have to pull over or shift the shifter into neutral and back to get it going again. We only notice this happening when it is very cold. How do we fix this before it becomes a bigger problem?
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I have a 1998 F-150 and when shifting into 4 wheel drive (manual floor mount shifter) the drive shaft from the transfer case turns but the wheels do not engage.
Looking for a diagram of how the axle works?
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I changed the front differential oil a few moths ago, and now it is leaking oil pretty bad from the axle seals. I think I may have over filled it. The level plug sits quite high on the differential, but that was where i figured i had better fill it to. is this the correct level? If not, how do i set the level correctly. I would like to make sure i have the level correct before I start ripping the entire housing out to replace the seals, and then have to do it all over again because I put to much oil back in it again! if it is correct. Then i have a big job ahead of me. and yes, i did check the vent hose to make sure it is venting properly. that would have been to easy.
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2001 Jimmy 4wd, 115,000 miles; Recently I noticed a strong vibration when in 4WD, no vibration in 2wd. I found that the rear joint (at the transfer case) of the front drive shaft has play in it. I am assuming that this is the problem. It has the appearance of a CV joint. Is that joint rebuildable or do I need to replace the shaft?
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We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
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I really enjoy my 2009 Smart car, excellent gas mileage, fun to drive too. The only drawback is all the dust coming off the front disc brakes that makes my front wheels look filthy even when the rest of the car is clean. Are there other brake pads that work as good as the factory originals yet don't give off so much dust?
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I have a 1998 Accord EX 4-cylinder that will not start. When I turn the key the starter does not engage. The green key indicator on the instrument panel looks like it recognizes the key security chip.
When I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid coil wire I found about 9.0 volts without turning the key. When I turned the key I got a little over 11 volts. I disconnected the wire to the solenoid coil and measured 0 volts from the coil wire to the battery BUT 9.0 volts from the tab on the solenoid valve to the battery. It makes me think something is shorted to the frame of the starter.
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I have a 98 f150 4wd with manual shift on floor (msof) and the 4wd will not engage. I've done research and I've learned quite a bit but still have an issue. In All the research I've done I have learned about
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, 4cyl., 165, 000 miles. Without previous symptoms, one day the transmission developed a delay of 5 to 30-seconds before it would engage in reverse. The fluid was clean and I have been using the Mitsubishi brand that they recommend. So I replaced the original transmission with a used one. But the reverse delay continued, even with a different transmission. So I removed the used transmission and rebuilt the original one. The problem STILL remained. Since then, the valve body has been replaced and the speed sensor has been replaced. I cannot figure out why there is a delay when putting it into reverse. I ran out of solutions. I did notice one day that when I first start the car, and the engine is at 1000 RPM's or more, the reverse wouldn't engage. Then, as the RPM's dropped to about 200 RPM's, the reverse would engage. I thought maybe this would be a clue.
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When I insert the key, there is current to the dashboard and the steering wheel moves into position. When I try to start the car, the dashboard is illuminated- the radio comes on etc- but the starter does not engage all. It's totally quiet. I remove the key, insert the key and try again. Sometimes the starter engages, sometimes not. When it cranks, it starts right up. The battery is good. We had the ignition switch changed out a while back, but it didn't really improve the situation.
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My R is developing a grinding noise from the front wheels. I thought changing the tires will fix this problem but it didn't. Any wheel bearings failure reports?
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We had a terrible grinding/juddering on front wheels when turning which did disappear after driving for a few minutes most times, what the problem might be?
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