I got a jetta 1.8t 2003 mk4 models.. Cars at 167km.. My cars oil light keeps going on when I am on low rpm, but when i come to a full stop & check my oil its basically at max.. And I don't know why it goes on? Ive changed my oil switch 4 times.. What can it be? Oil pump?? Or engine gone?
View 19 RepliesIt's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
View 19 RepliesExperiencing very weird electrical issues with my 2001 Wolsfburg edition Jetta 1.8T. Sometimes when I come to a stop light the car will die. I'll turn the key and here "clicks" and see flickering dashboard items. I've found if I power the locks up and down several times eventually the electric system engages again, and I can start the vehicle. Before the system engages, the locks will only slide up/down slowly or not fully. I encounter these electric issues moreso during cold & wet weather. To avoid having the car die, I'll keep my engine revved up at stoplights. I've sometimes experienced other random electric issues. For example, while driving on the freeway last week I turned on my headlights. I heard 3 loud beeps. I think a couple dashboard lights came on (not the check engine). Sometimes these beeps/lights occur just during normal driving, and almost always when I come to the next stop the car then dies. Battery has been tested and is fine. Ignition coil recall performed, still has issues.
View 1 RepliesRecently I changed a turn signal switch on my VW Jetta 1994, and it turned out the new switch had a faulty horn/airbag connection (just not springin out enough), such that power was not being relayed - I figured this out when the horn would not blow, and on inspection I realized that there was a gap between the connector on the top of the switch and the horn. At the same time I realized that my problem was the signal relay, and not the switch. So I changed back to my old signal switch. The horn is now fine, but I have the airbag alarm light on. I am cannot think of anything I did wrong. So I am wondering whether the light could be coming on because of the initial error when there was no connection where the airbag signal keeps coming on even after the repair error is corrected, or does the alarm indicate a current error rather than a lingering memory of the error I had initially?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 Jetta with the 2.5L 5-cylinder that recently threw on the check engine light for 2 days, then the light shut off. It began once I started the car on a coldish (~20F) morning after it had been sitting curbside for several days with the passenger side wheels sitting on about 6 inches of snow so the car was listing to the side. The car fired up immediately but ran extremely rough for about 10 seconds (the engine throbbed sharply about 2-3 times per second, which could be felt through the steering wheel & seat, accompanied by a muted clunk) before I turned it off.
During this time the CEL flashed on and off and then stayed on. I popped the hood, peered stupidly at the plastic engine cover, and restarted the car about a minute later and it ran normally, but the CEL stayed on. I drove it for two days (~50 miles) with the CEL on, but on the third day (today) the CEL did not turn on. The car has been running normally for all three days. What might have caused the rough idle/CEL and whether I can pretend it never happened since the car seems to be running normally for the third day in a row and the CEL has turned off on its own?
Whenever I fill up my VW bug it has trouble starting .... Starts fine in the morning or if just sitting BUT when I stop and put in new gas it has trouble starting AND then when it does finally start the check engine light comes on and the code says "misfire" which I am sure is a correct code since in fact it has such a hard time starting but why? Why only after filling up with gas ? And what can I do about it ????
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After I could not figure why I was having the alarm light I drove the car to a mechanic, explained my sleepless nights and many hours of problem analysis, and then the mechanic took his code reader, connected to the OBD car port, made a few clicks, and charged me $45 and then sent me off. The alarm light has not been back since - it blinks as expected when I start the car.
On my further research I have found that VW airbag light will come on if you check airbag with your ghetto OBD code reader - exactly what I had read! It registers "high resistance", and must be reset by someone with a qualified code reader!
I bought a certified pre-owned VW Jetta 2012 in August of 2013 that had 4,500k miles on it.. I currently have 60,000 miles on it. (I drive a ton)... but ever since I bought it my engine makes this jolting feeling when I slow down. it comes and goes and gets worse when I am due for an oil change. I have taken it to the dealer several times about this issue and they say that german engineering...I think differently. My engine light constantly comes on and my problem is still not fixed. What the issue is??? I am clueless about cars.
View 12 RepliesI have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
I drive a 2001 VW Jetta and have had many issues with this car but have had this particular issue many times. It starts when all of a sudden my car feels like it's going to stall when idling. When I go to drive it in this state the car has difficulty excelerating, bucking and sputtering (like the engine isn't getting enough fuel) and the engine light comes on. I have taken it to many shops and they usually replace an oxygen sensor saying that it is clogged etc. I have also had a couple of tune-ups because of it but after about a year the issue comes back and I shell out more money. I was told by one mechanic to use only super gasoline and that it should prevent it from happening again which I did and it held it off from happening again to about a year and a half but now it's back.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Jetta TDi wagon. Only when it is cold and first start up of the day, the raditator indicator light comes on and flashes within 1 minutes of start up. I stop the car and restart. It doesn't come back on (unless it is really cold). I have only had it come on 2 times and then it doesn't come on again nor does it come on later in the day.
View 5 Repliesa 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
View 2 RepliesMy engine is in trouble. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on. The diagnostics revealed that my Mass Airflow Sensor was done for. I replaced it, and everything was working fine for a week. Then a couple of days ago, my Electronic Power Control (EPC) light came on. The car is really dragging. It have to gun it to make it go above 60 MPH. It's become scary to drive on highways. Are the two issues potentially connected?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
View 6 RepliesLast night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
View 4 RepliesMy low tire light is on my 2009 VW Sportwagen SE 2.5. The tires are inflated properly even the spare tire and yet the light is still on.
View 1 RepliesSymptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
2003 VW Jetta VR6: Headlights are not coming on...reliably, at least. Both halogen bulbs have been changed twice in the last 5 months. This is what I know of the headlight issue I'm having:
If the bright light indicator on my heads-up display is on when I start the car, I have no headlights. Switching between high and low beam in the car does not do anything when this bright indicator is stuck on...I have only found one fix...see number 2.
I get out of the car and tap on the front right headlight...the lights come on, but the front right is much brighter than the left. The lights are on the low-beam setting at this point. Only tapping the front light gets the lights to come on...high beams do work once I get the lights to turn on.
Once the lights are on, they do not reliably stay on...they might turn off while driving down the road. Pulling over and tapping on the front right light will get them to turn back on. (think this might be a loose wire issue? if so... i can't figure out where, or what needs to be done to fix it...)
Very odd thing... prior to starting the car, the bright light indicator is on...I pull up on emergency brake and it toggles the bright light indicator. I get out of the car and tap the light, lights are on, go back in the car and pull up on the emergency brake...the lights go out. Put the emergency brake down, the lights come back on.
I'm completely perplexed by this headlight issue.
2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
I was driving towards the freeway, I wasn't even on the freeway, I was taking back roads, and I turn on the AC, and the car turns off. So I coast to a stop, turn it back on drive a bit, car shuts off, I figured out it was the AC, drive back with the AC turned off, get back home show my dad what happened, car shuts off when tested. We test the AC a few times more, then after a while car just keeps running even with the AC on, but when on AC mode, it won't blow cold air. But the car no longer stalls with the AC turned on.
I recently replaced the ignition switch in my 1998 Jetta.
2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
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