1995 vw Jetta 110K miles.. My car has a hard time starting in the mornings or when it sits idly for a while (when I park overnight) . On any bright and sunny day, it's like the car is brand new - starts with no problems at all. Tried several mechanics and none of them have been able to diagnose the problem. To make it simple, cold outside - car will not start, warm/hot outside car will start.
View 3 RepliesMy 120,000 mile 2003 VW Jetta will not start in cold weather. It starts fine when the temperatures are in the 30s, sporadically in the 20s and not at all in the teens and single digits. When I turn the key, the engine does nothing; it does not crank. Three mechanics have not been able to figure out the problem.
View 7 RepliesMy 2003 VW Jetta TDI has a major problem. The engine has likely been damaged by an oil leak that was not discovered until the oil ran out. I now have much reduced compression (340lbs or less) and the car doesn't like to start in cold weather and when it does it smokes much. I need to know if it is worth rebuilding and, if so, where I might have this work done.
View 3 RepliesI'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
View 5 RepliesMy 95 vw golf wont start I've tried push starting and jumping. it runs fine. The alarm just started going off randomly. So I disabled it and hot wielder starter wires. It turns over but will not start.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Jetta. It runs great until it just stalls out with no warning. There doesn't seem to be any particular thing I do to make it stall. I could be accelerating onto the highway, just driving down a residential street, moving along at 60 mph, or just starting out of the parking lot. It happens when it is cold and when it is hot. It could happen twice in one day and then not for two weeks. I have taken it to the dealer, a VW specialist, an excellent auto electric specialist, and the local mechanic. No one can figure it out. I have so far replaced the fuel pump, ignition wires, distributor, several engine sensors, complete tune-up, all filters, battery, and some misc wires and hoses. All told, I have spent over $3000. replacing stuff and trying to cure this car's ills. The dealer could not get it to duplicate the stalling. No codes have shown up at the VW dealer, the local guy, and Autozone. The auto electric guy drove it over 100 miles on one week with no problem, then it stalled on him. He immediately hooked it up to the diagnostic machine....and no codes! He was perplexed.
View 7 RepliesMy Jetta runs great in the summer and all seasons around town... the temp stays around 195 or so, the heater works ok, etc. When I get on the interstate however (now that the temp has dropped) , the story changes. The temp gauge falls below 150 and the heater gets cold. I assumed the thermostat was stuck open, so I replaced it but it didn't solve the problem. I called a local dealer and on his recommendation, I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. That also didn't solve the problem. I have had cars overheat in the past, but never one that overcooled! Wy my car cools too well at highway spheeds? It affects my gas mileage and makes for an uncomfortable ride on cold days!
View 12 RepliesI have a 1996 VW Jetta GL 4 cyl. 2.0L. When the temp. start to warm up the car won't start. I don't know if its the temp. outside, or in the cabin of the car. all the dash lights turn on, and accessories turn on. sometimes I hear a clicking noise, which I think is the sound of electricity going to the starter. I have replaced the starter, alternator, & battery. I had a family friend mechanic look at it for about 3 hrs. and he couldn't figure it out. I have a suspicion that it might be the ignition switch faulting out, but how would I know for sure with out taring apart the steering column?
View 6 RepliesOne of my roommates is also my ride to the bus stop in the mornings, and we've been arriving later and later for the past few weeks because of a persistent issue with his car, a 2003 VW GTI basic trim with automatic transmission.
After starting it in the morning, we have to wait a few minutes for it to warm up before it will agree to shift out of first gear while in D. Even then, often after he comes to a stop and turns left, it will once again refuse to shift out of first gear, so we'll be forced to pull over and wait a few more minutes once again.
I read a few forums that mentioned stuff about solenoids, but the whole thing is over my head. He does park on a steep-ish grade, as we live on a hill, if that provides any further clue. We're in Southern California, so the temperature isn't too extreme here, and there seems to be no other reason to have to warm up the car.
So that's about it! How we might go about getting it resolved? Is it something we can roll our sleeves up in the driveway and do ourselves?
Symptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
I have a 2008 Volkswagen Jetta, which usually runs well. About a month ago the check engine light came on. I didn't notice any other problems until I went to fill up the car with gas and tried to start the car afterward and it took multiple tries to get the car started. I took it into the garage and they did a diagnostic, and said the leak detection pump needed to be replaced. So they replaced that, and the check engine light went away and I thought all was well. However, I took it to the gas station yesterday and had the same problem trying to start the car after filling up. What could this be? The leak detection pump ran me $500 so I hope I didn't have it replaced for no good reason!
View 4 RepliesI have a '95 bmw 325i. After leaving overnight, as the weather gets cooler (live in PA) on startup I get an EEP-2 error across my dash and none of my dash electronics work. My speedometer dial works only. It seems as the weather or the car warms up, upon restart all functions return. Needless to say it never works in winter but I drive it rarly then anyway. My local dealer wants $130 just to put on diagnostics machine then start charging or replacing my dash. Dash was replaced by that dealer 10K miles ago by previous owner. Dealer says (on phone message) he doesn't know what the error means. I used to write diagnostic code for jets and know somebody wrote that code for some error. That it works fine when warm and dry (kind of like me) makes me think a capacitor or relay is sticking (like every other contact has in this car). The internet crowd hasn't cracked it and most others have ended up spending $1000 or more to replace.
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Volkswagen Cabrio won't start when it is hot, only when it is cold. Several times in the last few months, similar experiences such as the following has occurred. Yesterday, I drove approximately 15 miles, ran into a store for about 10 minutes and went back to the car and it started. Then drove about 10 miles and shopped for groceries for about 45 minutes, returned to car and it started. Drove about 10 more miles and went into a store for about 30 minutes...car wouldn't start. The engine does turn over. As the temperature gauge descends each line, I try to start the car and it will not start again until the gauge is completely at the cold line. My husband has replaced the battery, both temperature sensors, changed the fuel filter, changed the ignition coil and the starter in March.
One other time it gives me problems which is different than the above scenario is I have driven the car just one or two miles and had it off for only two minutes to five or ten minutes and could not start it for an hour or so.
An OBD scanner at an auto parts store gives several code readings, some of which say it is the fuel pump primary circuit, cylinder 1,2,3 & 4 injector circuit low, secondary air injection system relay A control circuit, evaporator emission system purge control valve circuit is shorted and, finally, evaporator emission system leak detection pump control circuit low. I have had readings done before by an OBD scanner and the problem didn't have anything to do with what the scanner said so I don't have much trust in those readings.
I have worked on my 1994 Jetta GL many times when I had to disconnect the battery. This time every time I would reconnect the battery the car would continue to honk. Usually it honks only once. I finally figured that although I had taken off the key from the ignition, the key position had been left in position as if the key was still in (old car feature). My realization was too late. I inserted the key and made sure to turn it to off position before removing it and reconnecting the battery. After I did, the engine cannot start any more. When I turn the key I get a rattling sound from the general area of the key, but the engine does not start. What did I ruin now?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 VW Jetta GLS 5 sp. Manual with the 2.0 Naturally aspirated 4 cyl engine. The car has approximately 147,000 miles. My MIL light has been on for some time now. I recently got my local mechanic to run diagnostics on it and he reported two error codes (411 and 420). To my understanding, 420 is due to the imminent failure of a catalytic converter, an issue which I have addressed by replacing Plugs, wires, distributor, and cat.
My real question is, I would like to know if a mysterious Vacuuming sound that comes from my car whenever I start it cold in the morning and persists for about 25 seconds, and then comes on and off intermittently, is related to the 411 code. My local mechanic told me that there is some kind of exhaust recirculation motor that may be going bad.
I love my VW and want to keep it running properly rather than give it up, so long as there is no serious problem that is impractical to fix.
Our 2000 Volkswagen Jetta will sometimes not start, no lights/power on dash or anywhere, battery seems dead. But when we hook up jumper cables (only to itself) and spark the wires by touching the loose ends together, power is restored and the car starts and runs normally.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 vw Jetta and it runs great. It started out just when I would get gas the car wouldn't start I would have to turn the key and put my foot on the gas for it to start (starts pretty much the first time I do this) but recently it has done this three random times when I didn't fill up. Also my check engine light is on. What this problem could be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Jetta with 75k miles on it. What I'm running into is that out-of-the blue, the car will not start. Generally, it turns over, but never starts. One time, it started but shut itself off after 3 seconds. Warning lights that flash are the steering wheel indicator and sometimes the traction control and immobilizer lights. I replaced the battery hoping that that would fix it, but it hasn't. Notably, the engine light is usually on when starting and goes off after 3 seconds, but now it doesn't go on at all.
The issue first started a few weeks ago, but I could successfully start it 15 min later. No issues for 2 weeks, until the traction control light came on and stayed on while driving. Nothing for a few days, and then suddenly could not start again (tried over a period of 3 days). Towed to a shop, where it started after two days.
My 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
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