Jetta :: 2006 VW Engine Noise When Car Stopped Or Moved
Jul 23, 2014
I have a 2006 Jetta with 90,000 miles. There is a low level noise which my mechanic seems to think it is in the engine or transmission. From the drivers seat it seems to be on the passenger side of the car. The noise is there when the car is stopped or moving. It seems more pronounced when you you give the engine gas. I hear it at 1000 RPMs and above, although the mechanic can here it on the rack. The sound is a pulsating un un un. If you have ever heard a fountain pump when the water is to low to pump, it is a similar sound. The engine and the transmission seem to work normal. could this be a bad oil filter. The filter is not a VW.
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My 2007 hyundai sonota with the 3.3 starting making a horrible noise as if no engine oil and eventually just stopped. ( My son was driving it). The engine oil light did come on! I checked engine oil level, it was fine. I also checked oil filter and it looked good.
You could restart the car and drive it and it would run for 15 -20 minutes before the engine oil light comes on then 5 minutes later it dies. Let it sit and the same thing happens. So I pulled codes and got P-0011 (code of many causes)
I pulled the OCV (CVVT actuator) in the cylinder nearest the radiator (bank 1? not sure which bank this is). Actually it was the only one I could find. It was not easy and it is in a cramped spot almost directly under the intake manifold.
Never the less It tested at 7.8 ohms and it moved when I applied 12 volts. According to Haynes, this number is good and the action when voltage applied is in the correct range.
I am stuck now. Haynes manual implies there is only 1 OCV (CVVT actuator) for this year model, but gets confusing? Is there another OCV I can check, on the other bank near the firewall (bank 2).
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Upon replacing the passenger low beam bulb in my 2006 GS, I noticed that the AFS unit is quite loose and can be moved left and right with no pressure. I'm thinking some bolts may have loosened. I know it's supposed to move in both directions, but that would be operated by a motor so I should feel resistance. I see LOTS of posts related to blinking lights and I wonder it this would be a cause. I thought mine going off and on intermittently was due to a failing bulb. How to tighten this?
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I have a 2010 Elantra GLS with a loose steering wheel. When you hold the wheel, it can be moved about 1/2 inch up, down, left or right. The issue appears to be in the column, because the intermediate shaft joint under the dash does not move, i.e., no slop whatsoever from that point down. The front suspension is as tight as can be, the car just turned 40k. Im thinking maybe something with the tilt mechanism?
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What is wrong with my 2006 VW Jetta. The windshield wipers quit working all of a sudden. I stopped to get gas and turned off the wipers( it was raining), got gas and went to turn on the wipers, they are not working. I don't even hear the motor run. When I was trying to research online, one of the solutions I came across was spraying WD-40 on the motor to dry up the water and try to fix the problem.here are my questions. 1. does this work? 2. do I need a new motor? 3. If I decide to spray WD-40, do I need to take the wiper arms and the plastic guard on the front to access the motor or can I spray through the grill on the plastic cover?
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We were borrowing my brother-in-law's 2006 Jetta and the day after a snow storm, the windshield wipers stopped working. They came up half way and then stopped and don't move further. You can hear a whirring noise,like something is trying to go, but no movement. We've been quoted $500-600 to replace the windshield wipers and motor, but we don't think they need to be replaced, just repaired.
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I have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
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So Ive been having really annoying electrical issues with my Jetta. Everything works fine when driving, but sometimes when I turn it off after driving for about 20 min, the car electronics will not turn off and the engine will continue to run for about 7 seconds with the key out of the ignition and then sputter to a stop. The electronics do not turn off after the engine has stopped. I ripped apart the interior to look at relays and the ignition switch. They all look fine and they look like they are grounding fine. Do you think it might just be a bad ignition switch?
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The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
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I have a 2002 VW Golf, with 203,000 miles on it. The check engine light is already on because the cat has worn out. I'm saving to buy a new one. However this morning about 5 minutes into my trip to work my check engine light flashed a few times. After pulling over and turning around to go back home the flashing stopped and the check engine light went back to be solid. Could the worn out cat have caused that? The car seems to run like normal. I did feel a little something when the light started blinking, but then it went away. The dealership and my regular VW mechanic have both said that the car is safe to drive regarding the catalytic converter until this winter when I get my tax return back. I have very little money right now for a repair. I should have more in a couple of months. The only thing that has caused the check engine light to blink in the past was the ignition coil pack. The car is on its third one and I know that feeling, this wasn't it. Plus I just got a new coil pack in June 2014.
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I just posted how happy I have been with my 2004 GTI 1.8t, then something strange happened. I was coming up to a light at night, turned on my turn signal and hit the brakes. The engine stopped abruptly and then began running fine without a restart. It was only for a split second. The lights went out, car died and began to run again very quickly. I noticed later that the clock had changed to the wrong time. I have noticed that lately at night the headlights dim slightly when I brake. That's the only clue. New battery, Alternator checks out fine.
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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It's a Ford Freestar 2006, with 73,000 miles. We had to have the catalytic converter replaced within the first year we had it at no cost to us do to a solid engine light that we immediately took care of. The original was found to be defective. The only symptom it had was it would run rough at around 40-45miler per hour. After the converter was replaced it ran fine w no issues. The in Dec of 2014 it came back on after I had been driving for over 30mi and then idulling for 20min in a school line. I called the shop immediately and took it in the next business day...I didn't drive it at all that weekend. The mechanic checked it out and found nothing wrong with it.
Our best guess was I had let the gas run down to low (first time ever I had driven w it's the idot light on). They did an oil change and still everything checked out ok. During the transmission fluid check they told me I should hear the transmission fluid flushed and replaced in the near future but it wasn't needed right away. The van has done fine until this last week. We've had a lot of rain and fog...my husband ran it for a few days and said it did fine. Then this morning I took my husband to his truck...we had been driving for 40min with speeds up to 50mph.I had idyldeld for about 15min while he loaded his truck with no rough running. NO ISSUES. It was raining and very foggy!!! After I dropped him off and went back the exact same way, about 10min later and going about 50mph suddenly the check engine light started to blink.
I wasn't in a safe place to pull over, so I slowed down, put my hazards on, and vegan praying. I was going to try and get to the Sheetz which was about a 1/4 mile ahead of me. It blinked for 3min and it was off. The van never ran rough, jerked, shook, or anything. I Drove it further to church and asked for one of the guys to check it out. NO CODE!!! Said to keep an eye on it and call the er mechanic on Mon morning. Keep it to speeds under 40. Is it truly safe to drive to church in the morning and take the kids to school????? Was it a false code??? Is it the transmission???? I've never had a van this messed up!
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My 2007 Accent just quit running setting in traffic. Checked fuel pump fuses and relay, all ok. What else could it be? Has 100,000 miles on it. Just turned over yesterday.
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My 2006 Hyundai Tiburon is having issues with the AC not working when the car is idling. In addition to the AC not blowing cold air, the engine is running hot, almost overheating,however when I get up to speed and start moving again the engine cools back down and the AC blows perfectly. I can smell the sweet smell of antifreeze coming from some where when I get out of the car and I can see that it is leaking under the hood somewhere but I don't see anything on the ground. What is going on?
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On Tuesday July 16th was driving along AC was on and all of sudden I heard a squeal coming from the engine compartment. The AC stopped blowing cold air then the A/C light started the flash (manual Air conditioning). I turned off the AC and finished out my day with the windows open.. I have read the post about the flashing A/C light but I am wondering if I should address the squeal 1st I only hear it when the A/C is turned on.. 2006 Camry V6 137K miles.
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Engine revs excessively when I press accelerator to shift between 2 and 3 gear. It acts like the transmission is having problem "up shifting". However I had the transmission checked thoroughly and all checks out OK. New fluid, no leaks, compression good, bands good, no debris in housing etc. This engine rev also occurs while stopped at stop lights for no reason. (no acceleration, etc) I also notice the fan behind the radiator running at high speeds when engine is in idle mode. Fan revs and then slows and then revs again. Don't know if this is related.
Engine rev is not related to running the AC. It happens if AC is on or off. The fan rev and the engine rev are not the same sound or symptom.The vehicle runs fine when I first drive it on 40 mile trip to work in the AM. As the day goes on and the vehicle is driven more then the engine rev problem shows up. (again on an intermittent frequency). Question. Could a dirty fuel filter cause this engine rev. Question. What might be some things to check out to find and resolve this problem?
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When i step on the gas there's a rattling noise in the engine like it's starving for gas but when i put super unleaded in it goes away.
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I've had my 2006 V6 for a few months now and I've encountered a few annoying little problems that I would like more information on before I go to the dealer for my 5000 mile service...
1) Every time I start the car and pull out of the driveway there is a rather loud clicking noise. It sounds like the car is slipping into gear. There is no jolt or hesitation, and you can't feel anything, you just hear the noise. It happens when I go over about 10mph, just once, every time I start up.
2) At higher speeds when I start to accelerate say from 50 to 70 mph there is a high pitched whine. It is like the car is winding up before it takes off.
3) Sometimes there is a clicking noise coming from the dash board. Like an electronic clicking noise when you click on a link in a website. It clicks a dozen times and then stops.
4) One time the radio controls stopped working and the radio control panel started blinking on and off rapidly. After about three minutes everything returned to normal.
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Might be a long shot here, but I JUST had this noise/rattle pop up in my '12 GTI 6MT w/ 13k miles.
Turns out I found someone who posted a video with basically the same noise:
Another one:
I hear the same noise while stopped and revving the engine as well as when driving if I let off the throttle and let the RPM's sweep down past the same rev range (1,800-2,000). Sounds like it's coming from the passenger side area.
I'm under warranty so I'm going to take it to the dealership...but I know how they can be with rattles.
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I have an 06 Jetta VR6 and it's making a lot of power steering noise (humming and howling). Is steering pump failure common in these cars?
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