Jetta :: 2005 - Engine Cut Off Randomly?
Apr 19, 2014
Been having trouble with my 2005 vw jetta gli 1.8T. On the highway from about 60-75 mph, the engine will randomly cut out (feels like my foot isn't on the gas at all even though it is). All the power in the car stays on and it will only cut out for maybe 3-4 seconds. Occasionally it will completely shut off as if the car stalled (it's a manual), which is dangerous on the highway. It will start back up and continue but will usually do it again. Funny background, I didn't have this problem all winter when it was colder, but today was a warmer day (in the 80's) and I was in stop and go traffic right before it happened too. I was thinking maybe something in the fuel delivery system, but the car idles and starts just fine. Could it be a MAF sensor? I thought a car would still run without a MAF just not very well?
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I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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I own a 2005 Saturn Ion, automatic trans, that we have never had any serious issues with in the past.
Saturday April 7th, I was on the highway heading out of town. My engine, oil and battery lights came on and the car stopped responding to the gas pedal, I could no longer accelerate, the car was coasting. The radio was still on, I was able to use my turn signals to get off the highway and turn on my flashers on the side of the road.
Once safely off the highway, I turned the car off and attempted to turn it back on, nothing. It didn't even sound like it turned over, pretty much dead silent. Approximately 30 minutes after pulling off the tow truck showed up and took me to a Sears automotive, the "closest" mechanic to where I had gotten stuck.
At Sears, approximately an hour now after the incident, they were able to start my car to get it into the garage. I told them the same thing that I had posted above, adding that I may or not have had cruise control on at the time, and that my car clock had been slowly losing time over the past couple of years, I was now 22 minutes slow after resetting the clock about 5 months earlier.
They then checked my battery and the computer codes? They took the battery out to charge and told me that the computer had a code "P601" stored in it, something to do with the ICM. This was a computer issue and not something they could fix at Sears Automotive. They charged my battery and then told me it was still bad, and tried to sell me a battery so that they could test my alternator, because they would be "cheaper than a dealership." I asked them to just put the car back together and called another tow truck.
When taking the car out of the garage, I don't know if they had to jump it to move or not, but as they were parking it, the power steering went out in my car. They spent 10 minutes looking for a reservoir that doesn't exist because I learned later that my power steering is electric since I have an electric engine. After that fiasco I was towed to a Buick GMC dealership to deal with the computer issue.
They didn't look at the car until the following Monday, April 9th. The dealership could find nothing wrong with the car. Sears removing the battery had taken the codes out of the system, although I did give them the information sears had given me, P601- ICM. The power steering fuse was blown, but they suspected that Sears had done that by improperly jumping the car to get it out of the garage, I can't prove or disprove that.
Other than that the car started fine for them, ran fine, gave no codes, and did not cut off. I picked it up after work and have been driving it to and from work since.
This morning, Monday April 16th, the car did the same thing to me again on my way to work. I was driving on a smaller road this time, doing 45 as opposed to 65. My engine light came on first, and the car shuddered, like if you were riding with someone who's not good at driving a stick shift. Then my battery light came on. All my electronics, radio, windows, flashers, etc were still working as they were the first time this happened.
I was able to pull off the side of the road and make the necessary phone calls. After 15 minutes the car started normally when I cranked it, this being the first time I cranked it after pulling over and turning it off. I drove straight to the dealership, and they had it all day.
Again, they can find nothing wrong with the car. They got a code that says Cam Shaft, which they said is too vague to narrow down without charging a great deal of labor. The car started up, ran well, and hasn't acted up for them at all. They said they checked my connections, and added something to reduce resistance in case that was hindering it. They are at a loss what to do next unless the car gives them more specific symptoms.
I'm at a loss what to do. I don't really want to keep driving this vehicle when it suddenly cuts off on me twice in two weeks.
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I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer.
I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean. The problem soon returned. The VW specialist also recommended that I take it to the dealership as they too had no clear idea as to what the problem is.
The car did suffer rodent damage in 2007 but was still under warranty so all the wiring that had been chewed on was replaced. I experimented using premium gas and regular gas. Premium gas seems to make the problem worse. Also, the misfires seem to lessen as the weather gets warmer. I would like to fix the problem to avoid any catastrophic failure but am trying to avoid throwing money away on any more guess work.
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My car developed a new light on the dash. Whenever I start to drive my e brake light comes on and stays on the entire drive. It randomly started doing this? It's a 05 1.8t tri with the o2j ...
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I have a 2005 GTI 1.8T with 203K miles, stock except for a MagnaFlow exhaust. My problem arose about a month ago. When I accelerate aggressively and shift from 4th gear to fifth at about 4K RPMs the engine will jump up to 5K RPMs. Happens while shifting from any gear when accelerating hard.
When I push down on the clutch and take my foot off the gas, I get a jump in RPMs. It's kind of like the boost in the turbo is not getting released. I replaced the stock diverter valve with a Forge DV with the splitter. Had no effect on my problem, but now I have that cool sound when I get off the gas.
Could this be the waste gate on the turbo not opening and releasing the boost when I get off the gas? I'm not very familiar with the intricacies of the Turbo functions and the diverter valve.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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2005 Jetta. The car makes a loud deep humming noise once I hit about 75mph, and goes away once I get to about 82 or so. I've taken it out of gear and matched the rpm I get at those speeds, and I don't hear the noise at all. It's only when I'm in gear. What this could be?
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2005 Golf TDI... I'm due for a smog check, and of course, in the last few weeks I've been getting some check engine lights intermittently. I'd rather take care of the problem before trying to smog. Anyway, here are the codes.
Confirmed
P0674 - Cylinder 4 glow plug circuit/open
P0673 - Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit/open
Pending
P0101 - Mass or Volume air flow "A" circuit range/performance
To be honest, I haven't learned all that much about my Golf TDI. Just normal maintenance. So, I don't know where to start.
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I have a 2005 mk4 Gli 1.8T with 69,000 miles. This ticking sound that I hear from the inside of my car is coming from the right side of the engine bay. It starts during idle. It starts ticking and gets a little faster and then stops for a few seconds then begins again. It fully stops while driving. I changed tensioner, belt, serpentine belt, water pump, and oil change with mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40.
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connecter and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning. I've searched and searched without being able to narrow down a solution.
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine came to me and decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connector and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta IV 1.8T R-line. The engine shakes/vibrates at Idle and when I drive.
Also when if I drive at high speeds when I stopped the engine just switches off when idling.
What could be the cause?
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I have a MKIV R32 and the other day I was driving with the A/C on, blowing cold air when randomly the air turned hot and hasn't blown cold yet. I took a look at the refrigerant levels today and they show a full charge along with the low-side refrigerant tube to the compressor getting cold but no still no luck.
The compressor is on so I don't think that's at fault, what else could there be? Something electrical maybe?
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2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
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My Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
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So recently my car alarm on my GLI has been going off randomly while I'm at work and school. The alarm goes off for about 5 minutes and then stops. Tonight it's going off constantly and I don't want to wake up my neighbors and I need to sleep tonight. It's going off every 5 minutes even after I disarm the car. I've been searching up why it's going off online and haven't had any luck finding the source. Also after a few minutes of unlocking it the car locks itself and then the alarm sounds.
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2005 saturn l300 water leak and pools driver side flooring. have removed carpet and sound cushion from flooring. used garden hose to find leak source w/o luck. it has rained twice w/o leaks.
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I have a 2005 Excursion, V10, 6.8 2WD w/ 177k. About 3 months ago, I started the engine and both headlights (low beams) did not turn on (it was dark out/automatic lights) The running lights were all running. Turned the switch on/off and no luck, however the brights (high beams and flash to pass) work while this is going on. About 30 seconds later, the low beams turn back on by themselves. Fast forward 3 months, the low beams will turn off for anywhere from 1 second to 30 seconds and turn back on. This happens while sitting in driveway, driving, sitting at a light etc. No changes other then an oil change. Happens when switch set to automatic and "on" as well. Brights always work, running lights etc, just the low beams turn on and off.
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My issue is on my 1999 Vw Golf MK4 2.0 L Automatic is that today I was heading home from my Moms house. I noticed a fuel smell coming from the engine . I was making a turn to head west then the car suddenly turned off while still in motion.. I let the car die completely turned it back on and it eventually turned back on .The check engine light was on I then headed home I also noticed while in 4-5 RPM the car would not have that much pressure . Like it wanted to shut off again .. I was doing some research from similar issues like mine . Someone said to replace my EGR Valve and my Speed sensor.
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So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.
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