Jeep - Wrangler :: 2003 - Surges / Lurches And Stalls Out - Won't Start Easily
Jul 9, 2011
I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler (4 cylinder) that seems to be having a fuel problem.... about a month ago, it started lurching, having a hard time starting, it would lose power on drives and once or twice it has stalled on me while I'm driving on the freeway. I've had to restart my car going 60 mph... if I feel it lurching or surging, I have been able to keep the car going by shifting into a lower gear or taking my foot off the gas.
I just took it into the dealership and spent 1300 to get it diagnosed and fixed. I got a new timing belt, and a whole bunch of other stuff and on the way out, it stalled at the first stop light. Although it seems to be running better, it obviously didn't fix the issue. I took it right back and now they are going to have me bring it back on Monday to 'try to figure it out’. Where should I tell them to look?
Oh, and - I had to get a short fixed from the ignition key (I was able to pull the key out while the car was running) and they fixed it. But now, I can't get any reception on my radio...
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My Daughter has a 93 jeep wrangler...every time it slows for a stop it stalls out..will start right back up but shows no trouble codes...I have cleaned the throttle body..the AIC valve...and check the fule pump pressure. check engine light did come on once my Daughter said but found no stored code. Have also replaced the gas cap, plugs and wires. when restarted it fires right up faster than a cold morning start. This is a straight 6 with around 169K miles.
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I own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
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I tried starting my 2005 Jeep Wrangler yesterday and there wasn't enough charge to get it started. I got a few slow revolutions and that was it. I gave it a jump and it started fine. Drove it for an hour or so and then went to restart it 3 hours after I shut it off and it was dead again. Another jump and I drove it for an hour (home). I was able to start it a few hours after that on its own, though it struggled to a bit.
Tried again this morning and it was dead from sitting overnight. A few other bits of info:
With the key in the ignition, the charge indicator is hovering just above 9V (it is a 12V battery) before I try to start it. When engine is running after start, it jumps to around 12V.
I am pretty sure I didn't leave the lights on or door open overnight. I haven't noticed the engine struggling to start leading up to the dead battery.
After I jumped it again this morning, it seems to be idling very low. In fact, the engine shutoff when I let it idle in neutral with my foot off the gas for a few seconds.
When I got in the Jeep this morning before trying to start it, it had enough charge for the radio and dashboard. When I turn on the lights/highbeams it struggled and the high beam indicator on the dashboard (blue light) was flashing. Battery is not too old. I don't have the receipt with me, but I think I bought a new one 3-4 years ago. The +/- connections are clean with no corrosion. I didn't look too closely, but I didn't notice any obvious connection issues from the battery leading into other components.
I'll probably go buy another battery, but wanted to check with the experts out there to see if there is anything else I should be checking. If I do get another battery
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I have a 85 cj7 with a 258 straight 6 and recently when I have been refilling the gas tank she won't start right away and I end up waiting 1 to 2 hours before she will start up and then she drives fine until you have to put more gas and the cycle happens all over again. What the problem could be?
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Vehicle : 2005 Five Hundred (220,000 miles)
Symptom : Car surges (lurches or RPM shoots up to 1500-2000) when outside temperature is 75+ F and ONLY when A/C is on. In addition, when outside temp 80+F, A/C occasionally not as cool, and engine temp goes to HOT (nearly overheating. Shutting off A/C gets engine temp back to normal and surging issue goes away. Less frequently, car's RPM drops to nearly stalling and on a couple occasions the car actually stalled. Symptoms began around 100,000 miles. Lastly, this happens ONLY when at idle (usually in gear) or when coming to a stop or driving slowly, like in a parking lot.
Corrective steps taken to date: - Throttle body cleaned by dealer mechanic (I'm not 100% sure it was a thorough job.) - Thermostat changed. - A/C recharged. - Belts & fans checked - OK. - Engine computer reset (?) - battery disconnected by mechanic for 30+ minutes to "reset" computer.
This has been going on for at least 3 years now. I've been to my Ford dealer and an independent mechanic's shop numerous times for this. The dealer was never able to reproduce the problem. The other mechanic finally experienced the surging. Oddly enough, after each visit to the shop, the car seems fine for the day and then the symptoms begin to return in full force!
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Video of Noise: [URL] .....
I am getting the above noise on startup, it goes away after 5ish minutes. It isn't exactly cold out. So I don't think its the oil viscosity. Its not a bad oil filter flow back valve, and its way longer than the oil lifters should make noises. I don't think it is a cracked manifold, I think the noise would be different.
Jeep wrangler 2005. 4.0L, ~99k Miles
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Have replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
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So last week something happened that I've never had happen before. I was dropping my daughter off at school and I noticed that my dash lights weren't on. My headlights still worked and the blinkers did to.
When I got home and parked it, I checked out all the fuses. There was a 20 amp fuse that was blown, so I replaced it and then checked the relays under the hood. I turned on the key to check the dash lights and they still didn't work. The 20 amp fuse blew again, so I replaced it again. Now the dash lights work again.
However, when I tried to start it, it would turn over, but the fuel pump isn't turning on.
Long story short, I've replaced all 4 relays under the hood, installed a new fuel pump and also replaced some bulbs in my taillights and sides over the front tires. It turns over when I try to start it, but the fuel pump still isn't "kicking" on and it won't start. I feel like somehow, power isn't getting to the fuel pump.
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I get a noise from behind the radio of my Jeep wrangler 2003 that sounds like a vibrating spring that is hitting metal. I get it in the lower "harmonics" you get as you just shift into a lower gear. It doesn't last long and goes away as you rev up in the gear.
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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I own a 2003 Jeep Wrangler and for the past 4 months. I have had a squeal coming from the right side front of the engine when coming off the gas. However when I get below 25mph while slowing to a complete stop the sound goes away in most cases. My mechanic has replace the tension pulley along the the serpentine belt and the sound still persists...
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2003 Jeep Wrangler LOUD squeal when coming off the accelerator. I've had changed the Tension Pulley, The Belt, Checked the Power Steering, Removed the belt from the AC unit..smaller belt now....Tested the Alternator, it's working like a champ. I have a 4.0L 6 Cylinder. My mechanic wants to check the intake gasket and another intake which he spoke of and I can't remember at the moment however with no guarantees these or one of the two could be the problem. He expects it to be a 5 hour job. The sound seems to be generated from the lower backside of the engine...
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2003 Ford Taurus, 49k miles, 3.0 OHV V6 (Vulcan).
It's my daughter's car, she's away at college, so it only gets driven once a week at the most. For the last year or so when I turn the key to start, the starter starts to turn, hesitates for a second, and then turns over and starts the car. I've been assuming the battery was a little run down from sitting so much. There are no noises, clicking or grinding, just this slight hesitation. The battery terminals are clean.
Last night it wouldn't start on the first try, I had to turn the key 2 to 3 times before the starter would turn the engine over. I took the battery to Advance Auto and it tested fine but needs a charge (~12.2V). I'm slow charging the battery with a Battery Tender so it's going to take a while.
This hesitation, is it a sign of a failing starter?
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1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo ran smooth until suddenly stalled; would restart for only a few seconds. Visually diagnosed and installed fuel pump; then ran for 2 minutes & rough before stalling. Now we have a new crankshaft sensor; now runs for 5 seconds. We rebuilt one part at a time? Diagnostic equipment not available.
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I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
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