The engine was running rough when it hit 2K RPM only. above and below it is fine. replaced the injectors/O2 sensor and it ran well for a couple of months but it is doing it again. when engine hits 2K rpm it will sputter and run rough. engine light gives me code 171 engine running rich or lean. What else to look at..
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
View 4 RepliesI have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Jeep Wranger (4cl) automatic that has hated highways. When i drive on the highway, after about 4 hrs, my jeep decides to slip into neutral. So i initially have to hit the gas pedal to make it down shift and then it seems okay but of course after about an hour it does the same thing. Hence a long ride becomes much longer. I usually pull off and let it the engine cool down and that seems to work and i can resume the highway once again. I have had the transmission looked at and a transmission flush done. I have been told that i do not need a transmission but the mechanic has no idea why this occurs.
View 3 RepliesGauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
View 4 RepliesMy 2008 jeep wrangler x 6 cyl pings upon acceleration. 62000 miles.
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased a 2004 Jeep wrangler Sahara. In retrospect, I probably should have inspected it more closely. The underside, including the sides of the engine block (below the heads, etc.) have a lot of rust. With little effort I can flake off pieces as thick as a quarter for example. How concerned I should be and what I need to do???
View 5 Replies2 days after replacing a weak battery during a cold snap the engine light came on. 2 days prior to replacement the gas cap warning and engine light came on, but immediately after the installation both warnings went off. Only the engine light came back on 2 days later. I have driven the Jeep 3 times since for about 20 miles total. Total mileage, 18,200. What the cause may be and how to proceed?
View 2 RepliesI own a jeep wrangler with a 7.2 hemi engine. Manual transmission. When driving and want to stop on a traffic light. The rpm will stay at 2000 rpm until complete stop and then it goes down to 850 rpm.
View 19 RepliesMy 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler, manual transmission, 6-cylinder. I accidentally let the battery die in September. I got a jump, and it was fine until we got a cold snap. (We live in NJ.) On the first cold day (October), the battery was dead again. The battery is about 4 years old. I got it jumped, and it was fine, but the CE light came on. I have been dealing with the CE light and generally lousy engine performance ever since. (The car is lurching and hiccuping.) I have had it to the shop four times since the initial dead battery in September.
I bring it to the shop, they hook it up to the computer, and each time it indicates a sensor problem. They have replaced the 02 sensor, the TPS sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced several spark plugs, and swapped out the clockspring. It has been to the shop four times in the past 5 weeks. I even switched mechanics after the first one said he was going to replace the 02 sensor and I looked at my records and pointed out that he had already done that back in June. (At that point, they said "Oh"" and tried replacing the TPS sensor.) The 2nd mechanic also got the TPS sensor code and I told him that the previous mechanic had already replaced that one, as well.
He went to a discussion website for mechanics and discovered a "design flaw" that a majority of mechanics said could be rectified by replacing the clockspring. So he tried that. Every time one of these guys does something, the CE light goes off and they test-drive it and it seems fine. Then I come to pick it up, after hours, hours later, when the car has completely cooled off, and the CE light is back on. Yesterday I picked it up and the CE light was on but at least it was running better. Then I drove it 90 miles and it was hiccuping badly by the end of the trip. Also, I filled up my gas tank at the beginning of the trip, and the tank is now between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Horrible mileage. My husband made the same trip in a different car, also a Jeep, and also filled up at the beginning, and his tank is more than 3/4 full.
I know I can take it to Auto Zone and get the code, but I'm not hopeful that the code will say anything other than what it has already said, i.e. O2 or TPS sensor.
I have a 97 Wrangler 4 liter that lurches violently. It runs fine until the engine is warmed up. After the engine warms up it it begins lurching. When I put the clutch in, the lurching stops. When I let the clutch out, it is okay for 1-2 seconds (i can get power and advance the vehicle), then I put the clutch in and repeat that process. When I give it a little gas with the clutch in, the engine runs smooth - so it doesn't appear to be a gas problem. When I give it gas with the clutch out it lurches violently.
After pulling it into my garage I let it idle to about 5 minutes. It idles rough and is about to stall, when it apparently shoots a little more gas preventing it from stalling.The check engine light has come on. I took it to my local mechanic who cannot find the problem. The "computer code" indicates a faulty oxygen sensor. He also checked the fuel pressure which is okay.It has 120K miles and otherwise has been a great vehicle. It has been well maintained.
I own a 2003 Jeep Wrangler and for the past 4 months. I have had a squeal coming from the right side front of the engine when coming off the gas. However when I get below 25mph while slowing to a complete stop the sound goes away in most cases. My mechanic has replace the tension pulley along the the serpentine belt and the sound still persists...
View 5 RepliesI am having a “Check Engine” light problem on a stock 06, 4 cylinder Jeep Wrangler with manual transmission. A local highly regarded independent mechanic has had it in his shop 3 or 4 times for more than a day each time. On the first visit he replaced a purge solenoid valve and reset the light. It stayed off for more than 400 miles and then relit. He went over it and checked the wires and connections and reset the light. Again it stayed off for some time and then relit. He has checked the Jeep site.
After the last visit he suggested I drive it and see if it would reset itself as it had been doing in the past. It did reset itself twice but it only stayed off for 10 miles the first time and 2 the second. The code indicates an electrical problem and he is now planning to drop the fuel tank and check the wires and sensors there. The next step may be an ECM transplant. This is only an emission system problem and the mechanic says it is OK to drive. We do not have emission inspections here. How important is it to fix the problem?
After I start up and drive my jeep around town and then shut the engin off. Then I get back inside the jeep, start it up the engin idels rough. Some times the engin light comes on. I had a coil pack installed and still the same symptoms. What do you think?
View 2 Replies2003 Jeep Wrangler LOUD squeal when coming off the accelerator. I've had changed the Tension Pulley, The Belt, Checked the Power Steering, Removed the belt from the AC unit..smaller belt now....Tested the Alternator, it's working like a champ. I have a 4.0L 6 Cylinder. My mechanic wants to check the intake gasket and another intake which he spoke of and I can't remember at the moment however with no guarantees these or one of the two could be the problem. He expects it to be a 5 hour job. The sound seems to be generated from the lower backside of the engine...
View 2 Replies1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
View 8 RepliesMy engine seems to misfire when I first start out and then runs smoothly. The first mechanic got a random misfire from the diagnostic and replaced all the cylinder coils which worked for about a week. The second mechanic ran a diagnostic which said random misfire and he said it was a loose spark plug. This worked for 4 days then it started misfiring again. There's no violent shaking or backfiring. I don't know much about cars but it seems odd that it doesn't keep misfiring. It's a 2006 jeep Liberty with 87,000 miles...
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
View 1 RepliesJeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
View 5 RepliesVehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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