Jeep - Patriot :: 2014 - Right Tire Has Worn Way More Than The Left
Dec 17, 2015
I have a 2014 Patriot. I swapped my all-season tires for my snow tires and discovered the front tires (both) are wearing badly on the inner half. The right tire has worn way more than the left, and it is bald on that edge. I had an alignment done in May 2015 at 25,000 km after I had put on my all-season tires (that was done in April). Since then, I forgot to get a rotation done (and perhaps they would have seen the issue sooner). I brought the car in today to get looked at (Dec 17) but they found nothing wrong. They even did an alignment check and everything is within specs. What's wrong with it. I'm afraid my snow tires are going to wear the same way. The service manager tried to tell me that my tires were wearing on the inner edge of the tire naturally due to turning my steering wheel.
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When I driver between 10-20 mph while coasting to a stop, there is a rattling/knocking coming from the left front end. I have jacked the front end up and shook the wheel and axle and nothing seems to be loose. What could be making this noise?
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In February I purchased a 2011 Subaru Impreza, 4 door sport with 26k miles, for 16,999.
Now 3 months later I have pilled on over 10k miles due to work, and constantly feel cramped with no space because I load so much into my car for my job (promotions and sales).
Recently, I have come across a 2014 Jeep Patriot sport with 15k miles for 19,600. The car seems to be in good condition inside and out.
Now I know nothing about Jeeps or cars as a whole really. But I do know that aside from size I love my Subaru.
Looking for opinions about switching from the 2011 Subaru Impreza to a 2014 Jeep Patriot?
Key features:
-I drive a ton
-Car is always loaded with stuff
-Fuel economy isn't a huge concern
-Subaru has over 36k miles
-Jeep has 15k miles
-In three months I have put over 10k on due to work
Stay with the Subaru or move to the jeep?
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I am lowered on KW V3's, running Figs lower control arm bushings with toe set to 0 for alignment just to be safe. Before upgrading to the Figs CAB's, I had the usual inner tire wear on both fronts. I then set the alignment to the safer toe=0 and it got better but still not perfect, so we installed the Figs bushings which made things great.
In the last 20k miles, something is off. My LF tire (Michelin Pilot Super Sport) easily lasted the 20K miles with very even wear. But I've gone through 2 RF tires, with the same outcome. After about 8-10K miles, the inner edge of the sidewall is so worn that the tire has physically separated. If you see the pic below, there is significant tire failure. Same issue, 2 tires on the same side.
Now, if this was happening on both sides, I would assume it's the normal ISF inner tire wear issue. But since we upgraded the CAB's, still have toe set to 0 and the LF is wearing perfectly, something else must be off. A check of all the main suspension points shows all bushings to be ok. The car has never been in a wreck and you can see the alignment specs below appear ok. Tire appears choppy, like a toe issue but the Figs bushing appears fine.
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A little over four months ago, I had a flat tire replaced on my 2008 Jeep Patriot. On the way I home I noticed a vibration around 35-40 mph. There was also an occasional "thunk" from somewhere underneath the vehicle. I took it back to the tire store 2-3 days later, and they rebalanced the tires. No luck. Took it back again again a couple of weeks later, and they could not find the problem. They recommended I take it to a dealer. It was a month or so before I could get it in to the dealer, and they replaced some worn parts in the drive train. Still the vibration.
Took it back to the dealer, by now about 4 months after the tire was replaced, and after having it in the shop for two days, they finally noticed that the replacement tire was the wrong size -- didn't match the mfr specs and (probably more importantly) didn't match the other three tires. They replaced all four tires, which were now worn and worn unevenly. The replaced the rear toe adjusters and one lower control arm. And aligned it, of course. Total bill for all the work done by the dealer, including the original work and the new tires.
Originally, the dealer blamed the worn toe adjusters and lower control arm on the wrong-sized tire, but once I started asking them for information to use against the tire dealer, they crawfished and said the only thing that the tire dealer should be responsible for was the tires and alignment. I took the vehicle and the old tires back to the tire dealer and asked them to refund what I paid for the replacement tire, pay me a prorated portion of the replacement for the other three tires, and pay for the alignment. (Which I thought was very reasonable.) They haven't given me an answer yet, but the manager claims that having one wrong-sized tire would not affect the other tires, that the uneven wear on those tires was caused by the worn parts that the dealer replaced (toe adjusters and lower control arm).
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I have a 2010 Jeep Patriot and recently it has started to jerk as I am accelerating. When I get to about 2200-2500 RPM the engine feels like I have completely let off the gas and then put my foot back down on it. Once it showed the Electronic Throttle Control warning light but I have not seen that light again in the past month or so. Originally I thought it might be the spark plugs, but I have changed those and seen no improvement. What could be wrong???
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My jeep is 6 months old. From day one it has erratic starter problems. Often when starting it, the starter keeps on cranking after I let go of the key! The ignition switch visually returns to the run position, but is electronically stuck in start mode. When this happens I quickly shut off the ignition and try again. Jeep cant duplicate the problem, and says Chrysler has no bulletins about this.
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I have a 2008 Jeep Patriot with a CVT transmission. The car was recently purchased and seems to have problems with slippage. When I accelerate, the car revs up highly, the tack goes to nearly 4k but the car does not accelerate in unison. Also, going up hill seem to challenge it. Seems like its slipping. When I took it to the dealer, the service manager says its because its a CVT transmission that's the way it supposed to perform. Is this the normal performance for this type of tranny? How I might handle issues with this tranny and getting the dealer to fix it?
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My Jeep makes a whining noise and sounds like a diesel truck. In the morning when I back out of my garage and reverse down a little way the noise is there. When I then drive off, the noise gets even louder. As I drive, the diesel noise seems to stop. The whining noise fluctuates. The whining noise started when my mechanic put in a new tensioner. He insists that the problem is the compressor. Twice he has removed the belt and checked everything and he says there is nothing wrong with the car except the compressor. T he air conditioner mechanic says it is not because the ac works well. He said that he has seen quite a few Patriots with this problem but he cannot tell me what it is because the people never come back to tell him what the problem was. I play the cd and the radio loud to drown out the noise so my husband who had a stroke does not have to listen to the noise.
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My wife drives a 2013 jeep patriot with less than 20k miles on it. The turn signals began behaving eccentrically (beeps at strange intervals, and the right turn signal flashing twice as fast most of the time). We figured out that the right rear brake/turn light was out, so I replaced the bulb. That solved the problems, but on the way I noticed that the widget that the bulb plugs into looks just scorched (see pics). I don't have enough experience with these vehicles to know if this is normal, or if this means more trouble to come.
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I was just driving home and noticed and sort of slapping sound from my rear left tire - I pulled over at a gas station to take a look at it and found no issues with the tire itself (bubbles/flat spots) or any irregular wear, my next best guess is that the wheel bearing has gone bad, is there a way i can test this for the rear wheels without putting it on a lift?
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2014 f150 4wd. Jacked front tires off the ground today, right tire rotated easily by hand, left tire VERY difficult to rotate at all. Removed brake caliper and pads, but still difficult to rotate. Started truck up, right tire seemed even easier to rotate, but no change in left tire...
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Basically got myself into a big pickle with tickets.... as related to keeping my job. I got two serious traffic violations (15+ mph over the limit) that'll count against my CDL.
My question basically comes down to having brand new tires vs. tires that are worn to the bars indicating tread depth is too shallow. Yes, that difference can be enough to determine whether or not I'm under or over 15mph over the limit.
Okay I guess that really wasn't a question .... Is the speedometer calibrated to "new" tire or a "worn" tire?
I drive a '98 Saturn SC1 with the stock steal rims... R14 if I remember right. I basically have two new tires on the front end... One about 1000 miles off the other one.
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The caliper/bracket has worn down on the front brakes to the point that I am replacing pads couple of times a year and they vibrate excessively when braking hard like on a hill. on other year years, these parts are separate and bolted together, on the 95 it is one welded piece . I cant seem to find a replacement part, even when trying to order the entire wheel hub assembly it doesn't show/specify if that part is attached. I did find replacements at a junk yard but they too were worn. Is it possible to convert to another year wheel hub assembly?
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I have a 1999 Saab 9-5 that eats tires.I bought it in 2007 with 20,000 miles. It now has 110,000 miles. My first set of tires, Toyos, got only 35.000 miles before they were worn out. The tire guy told me to expect around 60,000 when I bought them. Replaced them with GY Eagles which showed significant wear with only 20,000 on them. Tires rotated/bal every 6000 miles or so. The alignment was checked as was suspension, joints, fittings, etc. All checked out fine. Both sets of tires show even wear over all four tires each time. The local mechanic, the tire guy and the regional Saab guru all said, "some cars eat tires, yours is one of them".?
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I just got a call from my VW Dealer. He stated that while performing my 10k service, he noticed that there was a crack on my lower engine cover (splash guard) on my front passenger side and that the tire was worn on the inside almost to the metal. He stated that a driver must of hit a curb or a pot hole at a high speed to cause this type of damage... My wife and myself are the only ones who drive it and we are sure we have not hit any curbs or gone over any pot holes at HIGH speeds... some pot holes but nothing my old jeep couldn't handle...
My complaint is that I was hoping that the TReg would turn out to be the off road beast that VW has advertised it to be, but am disappointed that only after 10k miles I need an alignment and a tire change and have not even been off road... what should I expect in the years to come.. I am hoping to not have to treat this Truck like a car...
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Its a rotational squeak, that sounds like its under the cab or possibly left front tire. The truck only has around 25k miles on it. I recently had a 2" leveling kit installed, 35" tires, and rear airbags installed (within 5k miles). I checked the universals and they seem to ok and there is no noticeable clunk. I am hoping its something small.
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I'm having an obvious tire pressure loss on my rear left tire. Fill it up and in a few days I get the warning. I don't see any holes or anything. My question is this. Whats the cheapest route to go about this? I bought the car in June, so wondering if warranty would even cover tires? Is it worth a try? Not sure if I should take to the dealer to check it out, or just a town fair tire place.
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I am planning to take my 99 Passat into the dealership to have it looked into but I thought I'd come prepared with a little bit of insight into what could be causing this problem.
The left tire vibrates terribly when making a slight left turn. When making a hard left, the vibration goes away, when driving straight, there is no vibration. There is also no vibration when making a right hand turn at all. Could it be as easy as a bad tire or faulty balancing? It seems odd that it only makes the vibration when making the turn slightly and then goes away when turning completely left.
What could be causing the vibration? I've searched the forums but have not found an answer based on the vibration only occurring during part of the turn.
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I just dropped my 2014 Prius off at the dealer for regular service and they tell me the brake pads are rusted and 'locked up' into the calipers. They want to replace the front brakes. I told them that this sounds like premature wear - especially given the Prius' reputation for brake longevity - my dad had a Camry Hybrid that went 170,000km before he sold it - never having changed the damn brakes. Of course, they are claiming that this is normal wear and tear. Is this normal wear and tear, or is there something wrong with the car? - or worse, is the dealer trying to milk some cash out of me?
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At about 160k I noticed that the driver side upper ball joint was worn out and had a lot of play on it , so i replaced the upper control arm including ball joint(can't just replace the stock ball joint). I bought an aftermarket one with grease nipple...
Now about 2 years and 50k later, whenever I drive through a bumpy field, it sounds like something is lose and rattling right by that front wheel ,so i took off the wheel and checked the ball joint but it still seems tight..
Although I put in too much grease and that cracked the rubber boot, just leave it or should i replace the ball joint because of that rubber boot that is ripped open?
2009 f150, XLT 4x4, 6.5 ft box ....
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