Jeep - Liberty :: 2002 Dead - Won't Start At All - Electrical Circuit Is Short?
Nov 19, 2013
I have an interlock installed in my 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport. I've been having electrical problems in it ever since it was installed. Prior to it being installed the jeep wasn't mine, it was my grandfathers, and he says it really wasn't driven for a while consistently but it didn't have any electrical problems before the interlock was put in. I'm not sure if this is accurate or not because I'd never driven it prior to the installation. Either way, now I believe I have a short in the electrical somewhere in the system. I'm not sure how to proceed, other then to check the fuses. The battery IS currently dead, but it wasn't.
I was able to start the car and get it down the road, hoping the alternator would charge the battery (the lights were out, none came back on) After a little bit of driving down the road I drove back into my driveway because I was scared to drive without headlights, and shut the car off. It hasn't started back up and now none of the lights or anything are working at all. We've tried jump starting the car, thinking maybe the battery was dead or the alternator went out, but the cables just started smoking and getting really hot. I really need to know how to proceed to find this short, will I have to look at all the wires in the car? Or is it possible to just use the fuse box? My knowledge of electric in a car is very limited, though I do know the basic mechanics.
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My problem is similar to that of coyote54 back in 05. I have a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport. Instrument Cluster is dead, Information lights on top of dash are dead, Turn signals and Hazard lamps are not working. Found Hazard Lamp fuse to be blown. Replaced fuse and blows immediately indicating a short. Haynes describes a Turn Signal/Hazard Lamp and Daytime Running Light Module located on the junction block but there is no such animal that I can find. One of the responses to coyote54 described a Hazard relay located within the steering column........again, I do not see anything on the column that resembles a relay. Is there a hazard flasher/relay on the 2001 GC.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4 with 63,000 miles. There have been issues starting the car for about a year and a half.
It all started when a key was inserted into the ignition about a year and a half ago and a click would just be heard after the key was turned to the start position. Usually it started after the key was removed and inserted again. Sometimes it would take a few tries but most of the time it would start right up on the try one.
After 10 months, the battery was replaced after the vehicle had to be jump started. Shortly after, I had a Viper 5901 remote starter installed in the vehicle by a reputable store. The issue seemed to go away and thought the issue was fixed. The vehicle now was started from the remote control 90% of the time.
The issue started to become worse about 2 months ago. It would take more than 15 tries to start and to temporarily relieve the issue; it can be started on the 3rd or 4th try by rocking the vehicle. The starter was replaced two weeks ago by a reputable auto mechanic at my request. I went to a camp the day after for a week and most of the time it just sat in the hot sun except for short errands sporadically throughout the week.
I then went on a week vacation and the car sat in the driveway. I came back and the car didn’t have any power. The battery read 1.2 volts. It was jump started and then I went to work. At the end of the work day, I tried to start the vehicle and just heard the click. After rocking the vehicle, it started right up.
I was curious to why the battery was that low and so I hooked up a meter inline from the battery terminal to the disconnected red wire. Please find the results below:
-Entire top of the fuse box was removed of fuses, relays, etc. – read 0.20A empty – it sounded like the fuse box clicked when the circuit was completed. Not quite sure what was plugged in to draw that much current.
-The fuse box was reconstructed except for a few fuses – read 0.24A
-M13 fuse was connected and current increased to 0.64A (0.40A increase from previous)M13 – 20A fuse for Cabin Compartment Node (CCN)/Wireless Control Module (WCM)/Multifunction Control Switch.
-M12 fuse was connected and current increased to 1.67A (1.03A increase from previous)M12 - 30A fuse for Radio/Amplifier
-Viper fuse was connected and current increased to 1.73A (0.06A increase from previous)
I guess it come down to a few questions:
-What could be the reasoning the vehicle does not start consistently? Is it due to the battery or something else?
-What would draw a ¼ Amp without any visible connections on the top of the fuse box?
-Why would fuse M12 take so much current without a key in the ignition?
-Anything else I should look for?
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While driving I turned on my headlights and my car became possessed. My warning lights started to flicker on and off, my car was dinging out of control. The speedometer, gas, and RPM gauge went to zero. My brights light would not come on. My dinging for the lights being left on, or the key being left in the ignition, after the car is parked, and the door is open, will not go on either. I turned my lights off and all was well. Turned them on again and the same thing happened.
Now, the following day, it is doing this periodically every couple of minutes while I'm driving, whether the lights are on or not. My radio and head lights work fine. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be AOK. I disconnected my car battery and reconnected it to see if it would reset and it still did the same thing. One other strange occurrence. The last month or so while I've been driving my battery light came on for a few minutes. I had the battery checked and it is not bad. Then last week my gas-cap warning started to randomly appear. I changed my gas cap, and guess what.....it still came on, at random.
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My radiator fan is not turning on in my 2002 Jeep Liberty. The belts look fine and it turns by hand. My radiator overheated last summer but since has been fixed now my fan doesn't work, but hasn't overheated. No parts of the the radiator or fan were removed. We fixed a part in the water pump this past sunday and when we had the engine running for about 15 minutes, the fan did not turn on or even act like it was going to try. What the issue could be?
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i have a 2002 jeep liberty.the cv shaft is popping.do i have to replace anything besides shaft.to fix jeep.
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Our Jeep has 120k miles and it has the towing package with heavy duty cooling system. In Sept we were returning from a very mild summer in WA when we hit hot weather and mountains in south OR the jeep overheated and we had it towed to a gas station. They replaced the thermostat and checked the fan relay and topped off the coolant (with the wrong type). The Jeep continued overheating when stressed the rest of the way home, another 600 mi. We took it to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer and they flushed the system of the coolant mixture, replaced hoses, fan clutch and the thermostat ($900). The Jeep ran ok a short while before overheating again.
Returned to the dealer and they did all their tests and everything OK. A while later again overheating and returned to the dealer. Their tests again showed no problem, but the mechanic noticed the aux. the fan did not come on when AC turned on. He ran his own tests and decided either the switch or the relay for the fan was faulty, with the switch more likely. They ordered a new switch; the switch didn't?t fit. Called the supplier and requested the correct switch and again the switch didn't?t fit. The mechanic said he could file the prongs to make it fit and did so.
The jeep ran excellent for a few months. In Feb. had to overheat again, this time the dealer found sludge from the old mix of correct/incorrect coolant and flushed system twice. Jeep ran OK for a couple months then again overheating. This time it made it over the mountains fine but driving along flat I-5 south of Redding it overheated. We stopped and after the reservoir stopped boiling (10 min) the temp gauge was fine. We drove for 1-2 hrs. and heats up again. This keeps up till we get home, 400 mi. later. The dealer does his tests and everything fine. I tell them the aux. the fan seems to be randomly shutting off on its own but it does not act up for them so there is no problem. Could the replacement coolant temperature switch for the aux fan not be compatible with the 2002 Jeep?
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I am the proud owner (almost paid for) of a 2002 jeep liberty limited 4wd. It has been in the family (2 years with me and three with my mom) for 5 years now. It has 102,000 miles and about 7,000 of those miles are city (I only drive 6 miles a day to work and back) and the rest highway. My mom bought it from the original owner with 60,000 miles. It has been a low maintenance vehicle until recently. There are a couple of major issues and then three or four minor ones. I'll start with the most pressing. About 8 months ago I replaced a flat tire with a mismatched size spare on the drive axle and drove for close to 6 weeks before I realized the tires were different sizes. I noticed the problem when driving in 4wd I started to notice a thunking sound and called a mechanic who told me to check the size of the tires.
The spare was the original factory spare (235/70r16) and the rest of the tires were purchased used by my mother (245/65r16) I immediately replaced the spare and have continued to drive the car to work.Since then there have been no real mechanical problems but the jeep is making funny noises. At first it seemed like my right front tie rod end was going out because of vibration at around 40 mph. I took it to a mechanic to have he tie rod end replaced and he said that the rear end is "going out". Seems kinda high to me and I am wondering if I replace the rear end now, how long till I have to replace the front end and 4wd system? Will the rear end go out again if the front end goes out? Should I just start with new parts and rebuild he whole drivetrain now to save money later?
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I have a 02 f350 v10 with a starting problem. Sometimes it will crank but really slowly almost like the battery is dead, but its not! bench tested the battery and actually just bought another new one. And with the same result. I tested the relay that's on the firewall in between the starter and the battery and it checked out, i also bought a new relay and i want to put it in except I haven't figured out which wire goes to the coil and which one goes to the ignition. the battery and starter poles are marked and easy to follow ..
Also last month I changed the starter but I'm starting to get desperate and i think I'm going to take it off and have it bench tested as well. I'm just really at a loss in which direction to go. The truck on the outside really looks good but living in the northeast the frame and probably most of the outside grounds are toast and I've been renewing or just placing them as I come across them. Before i forget i tried jumping the starter directly from the battery with cables and got the same result. it would crank but too slow to actually turn over.. Sometimes my radio and ignition lights will sometimes come on without the key in the ignition..
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I have a 2002 jeep liberty 3.7... It auto trans 4wheel drive. All at once it makes rattling noise and shake like crazy. I was thinking oh no another u joint but checked them none broke or cracked. So I got back in drove it on home and it had stopped. So then I thought front cv axle. So I put in 4x4 and drove it and nothing?
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At startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
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It has 197k and change.It's not throwing any codes whatsoever. I can drive it all day and it wont overheat as long as I keep it under 2000 rpm.If I take it over 2000 rpm, it slowly heats up, but I can cool it down by slowing down. I can do like 50 mph max without it threatening to overheat. I've never let it get above 3/4 without pulling over and letting it cool off (I know how heads like to warp and crack).
Rubbery sludge in coolant reservoir (almost positive it's oil) but absolutely NO coolant in the oil, there never has been. I do all the oil changes myself and check it quite often. I've been keeping the reservoir full but it loses coolant daily (no leaks on ground anywhere, ever. I've already removed the reservoir and cleaned it out several times, but since it has more than one chamber it's almost impossible to fully clean without replacing. The hose that runs from the top chamber to the bottom blows off from time to time (I finally put hose clamps on it). I've flushed the cooling system several times but still the sludge comes back. I've removed and cleaned the thermostat (still good) and housing (had very little sludge). I flushed out the heater core but the heat is still weak.
Makes a loud whistling noise at idle, the noise literally stops every time I give it gas. (this is where I was thinking Intake Manifold Gasket, maybe vacuum leak) You gotta love these plastic manifolds. BUT it's idling low (650 rpm once fully warmed up) not bogging or sputtering whatsoever. Fans are working completely fine. It loses oil but again, no leaks on the ground whatsoever. I thought at first it was burning it (high mileage, worn piston rings) until I noticed the coolant reservoir was gunked (wasn't very long and I know I didn't mix different kinds. I check everything (more than regularly) and it loses quite a bit of oil.
Before everyone says head gasket, it isn't losing much power (if any at all), no white exhaust, and as mentioned before there's no coolant in the oil.Whatever it is, I can repair it myself but before I tear this thing a new one replacing gaskets and seals I'd like to be completely sure.
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i have a 2005 Town & Country that now won't turn over. When I just turn the key to the on position (not even to start) the gauges flip around, the odo flashes intermittently as if there's some kind of short, and i can hear a regular, repetitive clicking from an area behind the battery that sounds like an electrical relay of some sort trying to engage but failing. Short history that may be related: I recently replaced the blower motor resistor since the AC blower would stop after about 10 min of driving. (Btw, replacing the resistor worked for a while, then failed again, so something else is going on).
I had disconnected the battery when I replaced the resistor and then 5 days later the car wouldn't start. It's 2 year old battery, so I assumed there was corrosion on the terminal and I had not reconnected it tightly enough. At that time, a quick jumpstart got it going again. A couple days later, it wouldn't start again, would only "click" when turning the key (e.g. starter solenoid). Now, it won't even do that, just this repetitive relay sound and the "short-circuit" appearance on the gauges/readouts. At least it's in my garage!
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I was driving home from a backpacking trip when I noticed a knocking coming from my engine. It got worse as I drove up a large hill and suddenly became very loud, and I lost the ability to accelerate, power steering and brakes.
I managed to pull off the road and checked all my fluids, everything was good. No smoke from the engine and it was not over heating. I was unable to start the car, it wouldn't even make a noise, just dead.
Check engine light is broken and remains on. No other warning lights came on while I was driving.
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My jeep liberty 2002 has been sitting for two weeks. Noticed rear door latch opening and closing. So I unhooked battery. I figured battery was dead tried to hook charge to it but it keep discharging kicking off charger. Whats going on? Tried jumping but it was still discharging?
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My rack and pinion began to fail and my Liberty developed sensitive steering (lane to lane and while towing trailers). I had it replaced locally and aligned but when I got it back it was more sensitive than before and borders on "unsafe to drive". I can imagine what it would do if I put a trailer behind it. In my mind something is binding which is fighting the steering input.
When you turn the steering wheel stays where-ever you steer to (does not return to center). My next repair is a known bad ball joint, but I don't think that is causing this. My question is at 106K could my power steering pump be producing less than full power? Is there a dampener in this system that could have frozen up? I'm ruling out the alignment for now. This is the V-6, 4WD Limited.
I truly intend to repair it forever, but if I can't get past this it goes to the junkyard.
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I have a 04 3.7L V6 Jeep Liberty with about 114K miles on it. It started happening recently that when I turn the key nothing happens. I have to put my foot on the brake, shift thru the gears, back to Park, take my foot off the brake, and then the car will start. Not quite sure where to start...
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I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 129K. The car overheated and resulted in changing the head gasket and piston rings. Now the car will not start with all six spark plugs installed. It will only start and run for a short period time with three spark plugs on the driver side installed.
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The car doesn't start, makes a click thats it. When I had it towed to my place, I noticed oil was leaking from the bottom. My tow truck guy thinks the motor's completey blown, I'm hoping it's just the starter and the oil gasket. Battery is fine, I am going to check for error codes in the morning. The car has 157,000 miles and has never been in an accident. The original owner told me the car just stopped on them. What to look for to see if the motor's completely blown or if it's something less serious.
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My engine seems to misfire when I first start out and then runs smoothly. The first mechanic got a random misfire from the diagnostic and replaced all the cylinder coils which worked for about a week. The second mechanic ran a diagnostic which said random misfire and he said it was a loose spark plug. This worked for 4 days then it started misfiring again. There's no violent shaking or backfiring. I don't know much about cars but it seems odd that it doesn't keep misfiring. It's a 2006 jeep Liberty with 87,000 miles...
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I drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the Jeep had some trouble starting. It would crank and turn over and then sputter out. I tried it again and it did the same thing. After letting it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran fine. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and nothing that seemed unusual. A couple days later, my wife noticed a small pool of pink fluid on the floor of the garage where my Jeep parks.
So I took the Jeep in to get it looked at. They said there was a leak in the coolant line as well as the pinion system, both of which they repaired. Since then, the Jeep has done this 3 more times, usually from a warm start. If it's been sitting for a few hours, it starts without a problem. But if I'm running errands, then the third time I try to start it, it will fail until I let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it will finally start up. What it could be before I take it back to the mechanic?
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