I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
View 17 RepliesI inherited a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from my late father and it seems like whenever the temperature overnight drops below a certain level, in the morning the low tire pressure light pops on. I never encountered this problem with any other car I owned, is this something inherent to SUV's with all wheel drive?
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 jeep grand Cherokee with 170000 miles with a straight line 6 cilinder has a knocking noise coming from the valve cover area. It is only present during a cold start and for about 2 to 3 minutes. Once it starts getting hot it stops. The engine runs fine it has lots of power and I do not have any other issues.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
View 18 RepliesMy mother's 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (60 k miles!) has developed an annoying slow drip at the rear main bearing (6 cyl). Are there any additives that are safe and might slow this? She just had the oil changed, so it's not a good time to be talking about high-mileage oil.
View 9 RepliesThe ambient (outside) temperature sensor on my 04 jeep grand cherokee is now stuck in the open position (it reads -40 constantly) after having body work done to it. Could this be a fuse, loose wires, or is the senor broken? Also could this have been damaged by the body shop?
View 8 Replies2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, replaced the oil pump with a new one and washed oil pan and replace the pump screen. After driving for about 30 minutes when at an idle/low speed the oils pressure goes low enough to set the check engine light on. The motor sound good sometime there is a little clacker, oil sending unit replaced and have installed a mechanical gauge... What else will cause this?
View 18 RepliesSo, I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Orvis edition) with about 270,000 miles. It still runs great and has been really useful in the snow this winter. A couple days ago the power steering pressure hose blew. My mechanic wants to replace it, but I can get a replacement hose locally. Is there any reason I shouldn't just do this myself. Do I need to worry about the fluid sprayed around the engine? The serpentine belt is only a few months old and squeaked only a little on the three mile drive to get it home.
View 8 RepliesSo this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
I drive a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6 cyl. engine, ~130k miles. I noted a slow loss of power steering fluid a while back and, after hillbillying it for a while (money was tight, and there was a sale on gallon jugs of PS fluid), I decided to address this problem properly and fix it. I added UV indicator dye to the PS reservoir and drove around for several days, hoping to pinpoint the leak. Well, what I found was wherever the fluid is leaking from, it's in a position to be blown by the radiator fan, turning the inside of my engine into an ultraviolet Jackson Pollock painting. (That, or I really am leaking power steering fluid from my #1 spark plug wire). Any tips on how I can pinpoint this leak?
View 6 RepliesNew quirk in my '04 Overland, 133K miles. When driving, it feels like I am getting some "wrap up" in the drive line. What I mean is that, when there is even the slightest amount of throttle pressure, and it is let off, there is a perceptible slight pull or surge feeling to the right. When even light throttle pressure is applied again, it will pull back left again. No driveline noises, clunks, shimmies, etc. , just the feel of the car sort of torqueing when there is pressure added or removed from the power train. It is more of a "seat of the pants" feel than in the steering. My guess is that it may be a suspension link or bushing in the rear ended gone, although I do have some fear about maybe the limited slip unit in the rear differential acting up, as I hear these can be prone to issues.
View 2 Replies2009 Ford Explorer, 6cyl, 4L, 33K miles. When its started up, the message "Tire Sensor Fault" appears along with the low tire icon flashing (steady light after ~30 seconds). I can then press the reset button on my dash to clear the message. However, the tire light icon stays lit. I've checked and re-checked the tire pressure in all the tires (spare included) and I'm right at the recommended 32-34 psi on all the tires. No signs of leaks at all. I'm assuming one (or more) of the tire pressure sensors have gone bad and there's no way for a garage (or myself) to identify which one or repair this. Should I assume a trip to the dreaded dealer for this problem ???
View 10 RepliesI have had a Jeep Grand Cherokee for about 4 years. Over the last year or so, I have been having coolant loss. At first, it was very little over the course of a month. Now it is about a half a gallon over a few days. We can't find any leaks. The oil does not appear milky. There is a bit of moisture under the valve cover. What could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesWe are having extremely cold weather. Yesterday my low air pressure icon came on. When I went to check the air pressure, I could not remove any of the caps.
View 5 RepliesIve been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
View 16 RepliesYesterday, my wife took my car to LA and the CEL came on and stayed on (it's not blinking). It doesn't seem like anything is really wrong with the car other than the light being on. My wife says it seems to be running fine since the CEL came on.
Then this morning, my wife turned on the car and the check tire light came on, but then went off. Last week, I had my new rims (19x.8.5) and tires (235/35-19) installed, so I guess that could have something to do with it. My wife checked the tires and there's nothing wrong with them.
I want to figure out what the heck is going on with my R (sucks that all this started happening the one time my wife took the car out of town....Murphy's law I guess). I have an APR stage 1 tune, and want to avoid potential issues with a punk dealership in LA. Consequently, I'd like to try to figure out what is going on with my VAG-COM before I take it to the dealer.
Here are my questions:
1. Could my new rims and tires have caused the CEL to come on and stay on? Seems unlikely, but since the check tire light started acting up, I though they might be related.
2. Is there a way to scan my car with VAC-COM to figure out what is causing the CEL?
I have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
I running into a bit of a strange tire problem. I recently had the tires replaced on my 17" wheels. I ordered the tires online and had them installed by a local garage. Ever since then, I have been having what appears to be an intermittent leak from my left front tire. I'd typically fill the tire to 42psi in the morning and, by the next morning, discover it to be around 34-35psi. My commute each day is approximately 100 miles round-trip. This is very repeatable.
I have been back to the mechanic. He removed the wheel and very carefully examined the valve stem, rim-tire bead, sidewalls, and treads for any leaking using the soapy water method. We couldn't find anything.