Jeep - Cherokee :: Engine Continued To Idle Roughly / Pressing Accelerator Did Not Result In Any Increase In Speed
Jun 4, 2012
I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
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92 Jeep Cherokee 4wd, 4.0 motor, automatic. Several things have been done recently, new timing chain, coil, distributor and cap, map sensor, computer, cam shaft timing sensor. motor now will start and run. It runs well at idle, but the timing gets all out of whack as the RPM's increase. Is there a knock sensor on this motor, and could it cause this? If so, where is it located?
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My wife's 2002 Jeep GC has just started having the problem of stalling at speed. Happens without warning and will start back up with out any signs of trouble. No CEL. Car has a 6 cylinder with 130k miles and is well maintained. Have been reading around this forum and have seen a few people post similar issues. I will look at the connection at the ECU tomorrow. Is this a common area of trouble?
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2015 Jeep Cherokee 2.4 engine. Engine is very noisy at idle. Not noticeable when driving. It has variable valve timing or valve lift. I also has a big black hat on the engine, I wonder if that is supposed to quiet the engine some, if so it isn't working.
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For three years now my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo will whistle. Usually when the engine is cold. When the vehicle is idling in the driveway or at stoplights, whenever I take my foot off the accelerator it will whistle too. The only time it won't whistle is when the gas pedal is being pressed. I've had it to a number of different shops to be serviced but once the car is inside or the engine is warmed it will never whistle for the mechanic looking at the vehicle. I've been told that it could be related to the IAC motor.
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1990 Cherokee 4.0 ... Well I've got a minor clunking somewhere under there that seems to vary with speed. now I have to figure out what it is. my working theories are wheel bearing, or one of the three hundred odd universals under there. perhaps a brake shoe or the transfer case. This is my first 4wd, so I don't know about transfer cases.... there is also some kind of weird double universal under there, I can t remember the name off the top of my head.
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I have recently cleaned my throttle body and still have a rough idle. The rough idle is intermittent and especially occurs when I am in park and then hold on the brake and switch to reverse or forward without pressing the accelerator down and let it sit for a second. When it happens, it is usually so rough it wants to just stall out if I don't give it some gas.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport edition, automatic transmission, about 100k miles. Recently, when I turn on the engine -- sometimes -- it is very loud, and the car really shakes back and forth (in place) with the engine. It almost feels like the car is going to die. It feels like a very bad idle. If I wait, nothing changes. If I turn the car off, wait, and turn it back on, nothing changes. If I hit the gas, it continues, but decreases very quickly and by the time I hit a stop sign or red light (let's say 100 yards away), the car is more or less fine; no more fear that it's going to die, although there's still some noise that seems like it's coming from somewhere between the transmission and engine. I had the starter replaced last June (when it went kaput) and replaced the idle control valve a couple of months ago (the car kept dying when I came to a complete stop). I mainly drive it to/from work, about 50 miles each way, going 45-80 mph on a hilly freeway, and there have been no problems while driving.
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I noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
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We've owned this 2002 Mazda Tribute v6 for six years. Recently, the car has become somewhat dangerous to drive. While driving down the road at any speed, releasing the throttle does not result in the engine decelerating or returning to idle. Instead, it continues to hold the speed steady for 3-5 seconds before the RPMs drop. At lower speeds (~5mph or so) the car will even accelerate a bit, which can be a problem in tight parking situations. At higher speeds (e.g. on the freeway) releasing the throttle has no effect for a few seconds (ie it does not decelerate), which can be very surprising if you're responding to suddenly slowing traffic. The brakes can, of course, overpower the engine, but you do have to push harder to get the same braking effect as if you were not fighting against the engine. Releasing the throttle and shifting into neutral while driving causes the engine to rev quite high (3,000rpm) for the same 3-5 seconds before dropping to a steady idle, but it does allow you to brake normally. Shifting back into Drive while in motion but not touching the throttle causes the engine to decelerate the car normally. Touch the gas even briefly, though, and the engine will once again surge.
Oh, and turning the steering wheel from side to side, as you might do while parking, also causes the engine to surge, though not as much as it does when I touch the gas pedal. Also, I've disconnected the throttle and cruise control cables and worked the throttle plate by hand. Doing so causes the RPM to rise, as you expect, but it does not immediately return to idle when the throttle plate snaps shut. Instead, the RPMs stay around 12~1500 for 3-5 seconds before it drops to idle.
Over the years, I've replaced the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and other normal maintenance items. I used a meter to troubleshoot the IAC and TPS and used propane to look for vacuum leaks, but everything is within spec. There are recall notices related to unintended acceleration for these vehicles, but those are reportedly caused by interference between the engine cover and cruise control. I do my own maintenance and don't like engine covers, so I removed the cover from this car shortly after buying it; the engine cover cannot be causing this problem. I have disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but that has no effect. There are no trouble codes that show up on a OBD-II scanner, and the CEL is not illuminated. There are many internet reports of this problem, but thus far I've found none that indicate a solution.
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I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee with 104,000+ miles. It runs great and doesn't have any issues. However, i started it up this morning and the check engine light came on. Should this be concerning? I haven't done any real maintenance on it since it runs so well. And i guess that's my other question - what should i do to the Jeep to keep it running for another 100,000+ miles? Spark plugs? Timing belt??
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My Jeep check engine light comes on man said it was a EVAC problem...is this a multiple sensor issue? yes I checked the gas cap
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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0. Check engine light will not go out. Took to Autozone , Orileys ,and Jeep Dealer. No codes found. Replaced cooling fan relay, when light first came on. Everything works fine now. Have tried myself to shut light off, disconnect batt. cables 10 min, 30 min. and other methods, no luck , still, on ? I have even traced the cooling fan relay wire to PCM, all OK.
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Engine shutdown then starts after a few minutes....
Jeep cherokee 4.8L 2000 .....
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After I start up and drive my jeep around town and then shut the engin off. Then I get back inside the jeep, start it up the engin idels rough. Some times the engin light comes on. I had a coil pack installed and still the same symptoms. What do you think?
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I have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. The check engine light, keeps coming on, and the scan tool, shows P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Misfires in #1, 2 & 3 cylinder.
I replaced the Coil Pack & all spark plugs with genuine jeep parts from the dealer. What might be wrong or other things to check?
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I recently had some brake work done on my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee (139k miles), and they installed a new master cylinder. The following day, I was driving (very cold these days) and noticed the car had difficulty getting into higher gears and the engine revved up but would not accelerate. I had to stop, put in reverse, and start driving again. Then, the engine light popped on (P1763 - Governor Pressure Sensor) and has remained on for three days. The car runs fine most of the time, but occasionally experience the loss of acceleration. What should I do?
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My inline 6 engine softly stutters and misfires while driving and has the check engine light on whenever this happens. It's becoming more frequent now - 20% of the time I'm driving I'd say. The codes are 11, 12, 27, 34. I've looked up the meanings of the codes and I'm leaning towards its bad fuel injectors or a bad connector leading to the fuel rail. I have lots of bad wiring on my 93 Cherokee haha. I've fixed so far: a bad head light connector, and an exposed wire that connects to my distributor - it would swing and touch my engine block causing the engine to die.
But now I am struggling on how to fix my small stuttering engine problem. So the problem only occurs after I make a strong left hand turn such as a 90 degree or a uturn so that means a connection is being pulled to the right. It doesn't have an issue turning to the right though. I don't have sway bars on my 6" lift so there's a reasonable amount of body roll to pull on the wires etc. When I open the hood with the engine running smoothly I can touch and wiggle the front fuel injectors and sometimes I hear it softly misfire or sputter. What connectors lead up to the fuel rail?
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
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