I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport v6. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, Battery, cables, alternator, distributor cab, and plugs and my car keeps stalling out on me. It drives and idles just fine but when I am driving or accelerating the vehicle dies, I let up off the gas and it restarts itself. When I hook it up it does not read an error code!! Not sure what to do next.
View 2 RepliesSo i have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L v8 , it has been running good until as of lately. It has stalled or died on me 3 times, I can usually drive it for about 20 minutes, or travel short distances before it stalls out on me, the stalling is completely random, any speed/RPM. I have read everything under the sun about what could be wrong here, but where to start, have been hearing a lot about new Crankshaft sensors, TPS's , etc...
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0L (6 cylinder) that has 128,000 miles on it. Within the last two months it has started lurching 1 to 3 times per week. It only lurches once but always when the engine is hot and when accelerating. The engine light does not come on. It also loses power for several seconds at other times. Lastly, it has stalled two times in three weeks when I am coming to a stop. The spark plugs and air filter were changed last week. The injectors were also cleaned.
I do not have the skills to fix it and am taking it to the dealership which is very expensive - thus the money drain. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Or is it better to just cut my losses and look for another car. I would really like to keep this car for another year because I am in graduate school but am not willing to continue with the money drain.
1999 Jeep Cherokee Limited, 4.0L, 4WD, I-6, 199,000 Miles Every once in a while, after I start the car and drive maybe 50 feet, the jeep will sputter and have trouble accelerating. I push the gas peddle and it sputters (kind of jerky motion) and doesn?t increase speed. If I remove my foot from the accelerator and press slowly back down (I have to repeat this usually about three times before it works), it ?fixes? itself and drives fine. It only happens shortly after starting and it only occurs occasionally. Nothing in the fuel system has ever been replaced, including the fuel filter (because of its inconvenient location).
View 4 RepliesMy wife's 2002 Jeep GC has just started having the problem of stalling at speed. Happens without warning and will start back up with out any signs of trouble. No CEL. Car has a 6 cylinder with 130k miles and is well maintained. Have been reading around this forum and have seen a few people post similar issues. I will look at the connection at the ECU tomorrow. Is this a common area of trouble?
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 jeep grand jerokee... every once in a while it will just stall....it starts back up right away...no problem....battery is good... could it be the fuel filter? or the cranckshaft positioning sensor? or am i way off?
View 4 Replies2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, 6 cylinder car is in Tallahassee, florida and when the temperature is warm outside in the spring and summer and the car has been driven for awhile and is stopped (like for shopping) and you try to start it again, it will not start. However if you wait for awhile like 20-45 minutes the car will start but will rough idle for a little while and then it will smooth out and go ok. This appears to be random and does not happen in the fall and winter months.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 jeep Cherokee sport that is giving me quite a headache & it seems to be getting worse. My jeep has 272,000 miles on it. Bought it used almost 5 yrs ago. Anyways, starting back in april when it started to get warm here in Pennsylvania, it started to do this thing where you'd be driving it at 45mph, the tac meter (thing that reads RPM) starting to bounce up n' down from 800rpm to roughly 1500rpm. It would bounce like that for every 2 secs while driving. Now, when i went to slow down to roughly 35mph & slower then that, it would begin to spit, sputter, jerk, & carry on & it shut off on me once!
It seemed like it got a mind of it's own too. When I come to a stop, it seems like it wants to give it more gas!!! There are acouple of times that I almost didn't get stopped & almost rear ended a couple of cars!! When you go to park it & let it run, it sounds like someone is pushing down on the gas & letting off of it every 3 secs. Again, it would go from 0rpm to 1200rpm then keep doing that til you shut it off. If you shut it off & leave it set for about an hr then, it'll run just fine for about an hr or so & then, begin to mess up!!
So far, I've changed, the plugs, plug wires, dist cap/rotor, 02 sensor, swapped a MAP sensor off of my moms jeep, (no change there) The last thing I just bought was a Ignition coil. Mine had cracks in it so, I thought it might of been that. NOPE!!! Still messes up. It seems like the hotter it gets outside, the quicker it wants to mess up. I've even got a can of carb cleaner & sprayed every vac line/hose that I can find. No change!!
One more thing. On cold/cool mornings, it'll start up & run just fine even with the bad coil that was on there.. No problems.
It started stalling out off and on. Thought maybe bad tank of gas and waited it out. Since then i have had the catalytic converter replaced. Ignition coil replaced complete tune up with new wires distributor and rotor button. Still stalled so they said fuel pump now that's been replaced and on my way home it stalled again.
View 9 RepliesMy 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Special Edition) has been stalling on me for a couple months now. After 2 different shops I decided to take to the dealership after stalling on freeway. They had my car 2 weeks before they got it to stall and advised I replace the CAM and Crank sensor before replacing the PCM (main computer).The Crank sensor was replaced at the first shop, they said part had noted issues if after market. I had them replace the CAM sensor and am taking back to first shop to warranty the part and asked they use a factory part. My concern is it will continue to stall and the next step is to replace the PCM.
View 2 RepliesMy jeep is having two issues. First, almost every time I start the vehicle it idles fine, but then when I start to accelerate it bogs down for 1 to 2 seconds. I will accelerate through it and after that it runs fine and doesn't do it again until the next time I start the vehicle. My second issue is that after driving for a couple of hours with the AC on, the flow of air out of the vents drops. The air is still cold to the touch just barely blowing. Once I cut the motor off for about 30 minutes it works fine again for a couple more hours. Also, when the intensity of the air coming out of the vents dies down the blower motor sounds like it is working harder to put out the little bit of air pressure.
View 3 RepliesFor the first ten minutes after my car is started (until it warms up), the oil gauge drops to 0 while accelerating. When I take my foot off the gas, it goes back up. After the car is warm, the gauge works fine and unless the car cools completely down, it gives me no more trouble until the next morning. We have tried:
1. Changing the sending unit (twice);
2. Changing the oil;
3. Working on the electrical contacts;
4. Cleaning all of the parts around it.
My oil light keeps coming on when slowing down or at a stop light and goes off when accelerating. We changed the sensor and it still does it. We checked the oil pressure and oil pressure is good. We just replaced the heads due to a cracked head. The light was coming on before changing the heads and still comes on. Why this happens and what is wrong with the car. I am afraid to drive it. There is oil in it and it reads full.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with a straight 6. Lately I have been having trouble with hesitation when I accelerate. It happens at all speeds. It is a stick shift, and as I push in the clutch pedal, the engine races a bit and then as a let it out the car hesitates and/or bucks if I don't give it a shit load of gas. Also, if I let off the gas completely and then try to accelerate quickly it will pause and buck unless I do it really gradually. This problem is intermittent, so I am thinking it might be something with a sensor. Also, if it stalls out completely, restarting the car requires me to hold the gas to the floor. I have already replaced the camshaft and throttle position sensors. Not sure what the deal is.
View 1 Replies'95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 (bought used 3 years ago), The Jeep sometimes dies while we are driving it. Most of the time we can restart it right away, but others it will make the turning over sound and not "catch" & go vroom.
Other times we'll be driving down the freeway (for example) and it will do a little shutter, like it's going to die and if we push on the gas it kinda skips over the dying part.
We thought it was the fuel pump, so my father-in-law took it to a mechanic and he checked it out and said the fuel pump is fine. His assistant drove it around for a while & it never died on the (of course). So he said it was fine and suggested we got some bad fuel and told us to put in some Chevron, but later that night we drove it close to home for 20min & it worked just fine. Ate some dinner at Mom & Dad's then it wouldn't start up again.
We've changed the Fuel Filter, it has a new Radiator, New Brakes and Just got an Oil Change, we filled it up with Regular Chevron and added 'HEAT' (additive to get rid of moisture)... We are at a loss...
Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
I have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it.
View 14 Replies1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter, 156000 miles, Auto trans, It dies while driving. RPMs drop and it dies. Then starts right back up.
These things have already been replaced
cam shaft sensorcrank shaft positioning sensorfuel filterPlugs/Wires/Distributor Cap
I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 V6, fuel injected, 4 wheel drive with a 5 speed. It has developed a stuttering or a hesitation at times while driving. It's hard to describe, but feels like the engine is not getting fuel or air at short quick bursts, thus a stuttering feel.
Some things I've noticed: It happens mostly when the engine is cold, but can happen any time.It seems to be worst during rain or snow.At low throttle, it can cause the whole vehicle to shudder violently and at full throttle (gas pedal down for acceleration) it is very noticeable but doesn't seem to cause the vehicle to shudder as hard. I think I hear a metallic pop or clack when it happens, especially at high throttle. It doesn't seem to matter what gear I'm in.It doesn't matter whether I'm on a flat or a hill. It doesn't seem to matter what speed I'm going, but it is a little harder to notice cruising along at 65.
Maintenance History: The vehicle has had several things replaced in 2011: Alternator, crank position sensor, relay on the ASD, serpentine belt, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, battery, engine compartment fan.
The vehicle went into the shop when it started dying at stop lights or stop signs and starting hard. The diagnosis was the crank position sensor and that did indeed seem to fix that problem. Within a few days, however, the vehicle started running rough and would come close to stalling when idling at a stop. My mechanic sprayed a bunch of cleaner down into the air intake part of the engine (a part that reminded me of the butterfly valve on a small carburetor). The problem went away, but this stuttering problem started up about a day later.
My inline 6 engine softly stutters and misfires while driving and has the check engine light on whenever this happens. It's becoming more frequent now - 20% of the time I'm driving I'd say. The codes are 11, 12, 27, 34. I've looked up the meanings of the codes and I'm leaning towards its bad fuel injectors or a bad connector leading to the fuel rail. I have lots of bad wiring on my 93 Cherokee haha. I've fixed so far: a bad head light connector, and an exposed wire that connects to my distributor - it would swing and touch my engine block causing the engine to die.
But now I am struggling on how to fix my small stuttering engine problem. So the problem only occurs after I make a strong left hand turn such as a 90 degree or a uturn so that means a connection is being pulled to the right. It doesn't have an issue turning to the right though. I don't have sway bars on my 6" lift so there's a reasonable amount of body roll to pull on the wires etc. When I open the hood with the engine running smoothly I can touch and wiggle the front fuel injectors and sometimes I hear it softly misfire or sputter. What connectors lead up to the fuel rail?
I purchased a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo at a steal . . . I've already replaced the head gasket sealant. My biggest current concern is the fuel pressure. The car either starts up beautifully or sputters and gurgles for a good 5 seconds before finally idling normally (either occur during cold or warm starts).
The sputtering at start-up has become more commonplace as of late. If I drive away without providing a good three-to-five minute warm-up, the car will drive as normal while applying gas pressure to the peddle, then once gas pressure is no longer applied, the car dies silently; The battery stays on, but all power steering and engine power disappear and the car coast into nothingness. If I allow the Jeep to warm up significantly, it will drive as normal for hours, except for it's struggles to compensate long upward hills.
The fuel regulator has a slight leak. Worse at start-up, lessens up over time. The seal may be improperly seated, but is in physical working condition as I can tell. Spark plugs were replaced. Battery was replaced. Injectors have been tightened. There is a slight oil leak (it seems to move around a bit), but is far better since the Head Gasket was replaced. Could this be a bad fuel regulator or something else that I have missed?