Jeep - Cherokee :: 1995 - Electrical Accessories Won't Work When First Starting
May 19, 2011
I have a 95 Jeep Cherokee that has a strange electrical problem. When I first turn the car on after it has been sitting for several hours, the following accessories do not work:- Air conditioner/Ventilation- Wipers- Cigarette lighter
There are two really odd things going on here: The first is that the radio will not work if any of the above three things are turned on, but it WILL work if they are all turned off. For example, with the wipers and AC off, and cell charger unplugged from the lighter, the radio will turn on. As soon as I plug the charger in, or turn on the wipers or AC, the radio goes off. None of these accessories actually turn on, but simply being putting them in the "on" position kills the radio until they are switched off.
The second weird thing is that after a few minutes of driving, everything will return to working as normal - radio, AC, lighter, etc. They continue to work until the next time the car has been sitting for several hours, at which point the same problem repeats.
FYI, I recently replaced the alternator to address an unrelated issue, but it did not make a difference with this one.
I searched the car talk forums for similar issues, but did not have any luck - while it does look like there are some other Chrysler vehicles that have electrical problems, I couldn't find anything dealing with an intermittent problem.
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'95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 (bought used 3 years ago), The Jeep sometimes dies while we are driving it. Most of the time we can restart it right away, but others it will make the turning over sound and not "catch" & go vroom.
Other times we'll be driving down the freeway (for example) and it will do a little shutter, like it's going to die and if we push on the gas it kinda skips over the dying part.
We thought it was the fuel pump, so my father-in-law took it to a mechanic and he checked it out and said the fuel pump is fine. His assistant drove it around for a while & it never died on the (of course). So he said it was fine and suggested we got some bad fuel and told us to put in some Chevron, but later that night we drove it close to home for 20min & it worked just fine. Ate some dinner at Mom & Dad's then it wouldn't start up again.
We've changed the Fuel Filter, it has a new Radiator, New Brakes and Just got an Oil Change, we filled it up with Regular Chevron and added 'HEAT' (additive to get rid of moisture)... We are at a loss...
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My manual transmission 1995 Jeep Cherokee today refused to go into any gear after I had stopped for a light. After pushing it to the side of the road I was about to call AAA when it went into gear and worked perfectly thereafter. This happened once before about a month ago. What could be the problem and how likely am I to get stuck for good?
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95 jeep cherokee. My oil pressure gauge sometimes jumps up to 80lbs or bobs between 40 and 80lbs. Could this be anything other than sensor or gauge itself?
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My father has a 1995 Jeep grand Cherokee that drains the battery every few days. I draw tested the battery and it is fine. The alternator is charging fine. During a check of the circuits for battery drain, I found that the MUX/T Tow 50 amp fuse is draining the battery at a rate of about 1.5 amps or more. The manual I have does not list the fuse so the following questions come to mind.
1. What circuits are on this fuse?
2. Can the truck be safely operated without this circuit?
3. What further can you do to detect the trouble?
Some answers I came up with after a little more checking.
1. The gage cluster does not work when the fuse is removed, it must be on this fuse. None of the cluster system lights come on when this fuse is out. The cluster illumination lights work ok.
2. All external lights work without the fuse in except stop lights.
3. All other functions are working without the fuse in.
4. No the truck cannot be safely operated. See answer #1and 2 above
5. Found online that a check of any trouble codes might determine touble.
6. No codes were found. But i ddid have the battery cables off before this was checked. He is going to drive it home and back on Sat so I can recheck the codes.
7. Many replys to other posts here on this site refer to the MUX as a "multiplexer"
More questions
1. What the heck is a multiplexer?
2. What relay controls the cluster? Or is this done directly by the ECM.
I do have a good background in electrical and electronic circuits of many types, mostly radio and computer, but also including automotive. So feel free to beat me up if I am overlooking the obvious. I just feell like I am beating my head against the wall here. AND this is what it feels like (thought that was real cute)
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I have a 1995 jeep Cherokee country that has 130k miles. I have notice that when I shift from park to drive, park to reverse, drive to reverse or vice versa It makes this thud noise after placing it in gear. Is this a sign that the transmission is about to go out ? What action should I take? By the way its a automatic transmission
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If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work? WHEN LIGHTS ARE ON, RT HAND BLINKER DOESN'T WORK...WHEN LIGHTS ARE OFF BOTH BLINKERS WORK..
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I have a 95 jeep Cherokee and have lost all power to my radio, heater, wipers and turn signals, i have checked all fuses and replace a relay i thought may have been bad, I have yet to find any inline fuses that may cause the issue.
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My '95 Grand Cherokee (104K miles) just started groaning when I make full turns. After first 1 or two turns, right or left, can hear the steering column groan and feel some resistance. Have I lost power steering fluid? or worse?
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Pretty soon this thing's gonna have ALL new parts and STILL running rough! The Jeep has about 40K on a Jasper motor, 175K on everything else. I was experiencing starting issues (crank for 20-30 seconds), and noticed a P0171 code on my odometer (O2 sensor?) so off to my mechanic. He replaced two O2 sensors, no change. New code read MAP sensor, replaced, no change.
Finally, changed Fuel Pump in tank (Fuel filter was changed 2 months ago), still no change. I tried starting it tonight by turning the key 5-10 sec. to prime gas, started but still rough at idle. Runs strong above idle 1500-2000RPM. Mechanic can't check fuel pressure at rails? for some reason. My next thoughts were spark plugs and vacuum lines...
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1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
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I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
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All of this happened at the same time so has to be related. The a/c system has no power, the brake lights and turn signals don't work, windows wont work, air bag light on. However, the park lights, head lights and hazards work fine. Starts and runs fine. All fuses check out ok. New battery as well.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4 with 63,000 miles. There have been issues starting the car for about a year and a half.
It all started when a key was inserted into the ignition about a year and a half ago and a click would just be heard after the key was turned to the start position. Usually it started after the key was removed and inserted again. Sometimes it would take a few tries but most of the time it would start right up on the try one.
After 10 months, the battery was replaced after the vehicle had to be jump started. Shortly after, I had a Viper 5901 remote starter installed in the vehicle by a reputable store. The issue seemed to go away and thought the issue was fixed. The vehicle now was started from the remote control 90% of the time.
The issue started to become worse about 2 months ago. It would take more than 15 tries to start and to temporarily relieve the issue; it can be started on the 3rd or 4th try by rocking the vehicle. The starter was replaced two weeks ago by a reputable auto mechanic at my request. I went to a camp the day after for a week and most of the time it just sat in the hot sun except for short errands sporadically throughout the week.
I then went on a week vacation and the car sat in the driveway. I came back and the car didn’t have any power. The battery read 1.2 volts. It was jump started and then I went to work. At the end of the work day, I tried to start the vehicle and just heard the click. After rocking the vehicle, it started right up.
I was curious to why the battery was that low and so I hooked up a meter inline from the battery terminal to the disconnected red wire. Please find the results below:
-Entire top of the fuse box was removed of fuses, relays, etc. – read 0.20A empty – it sounded like the fuse box clicked when the circuit was completed. Not quite sure what was plugged in to draw that much current.
-The fuse box was reconstructed except for a few fuses – read 0.24A
-M13 fuse was connected and current increased to 0.64A (0.40A increase from previous)M13 – 20A fuse for Cabin Compartment Node (CCN)/Wireless Control Module (WCM)/Multifunction Control Switch.
-M12 fuse was connected and current increased to 1.67A (1.03A increase from previous)M12 - 30A fuse for Radio/Amplifier
-Viper fuse was connected and current increased to 1.73A (0.06A increase from previous)
I guess it come down to a few questions:
-What could be the reasoning the vehicle does not start consistently? Is it due to the battery or something else?
-What would draw a ¼ Amp without any visible connections on the top of the fuse box?
-Why would fuse M12 take so much current without a key in the ignition?
-Anything else I should look for?
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I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with a kind of serious problem. My wipers dont always work. Sometimes they work fine, sometimes they work fine to start with and then quit without warning, other times the only way to get them to turn on is to turn them on high and then go to the speed that I want to use. It has the intermittent option but I am not yet convinced that that has anything to do with my problem. They will quit working some of the time while using the delay but they also quit on low sometimes. I have been through and checked all of the plugs, and even went as far as to grease them up so I know they are making good connections. I'm at a loss, I would think if it were the motor or the switch it would just go out all together. And if it were a broken wire, wouldn't it come on and go off if I hit a bump in the road? They shut off on smooth roads so bumpy or smooth does not matter.
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After changing my radiator support, my fuel and temperature gauges don't work. I looked to see if everything was plugged in and I don't see anything unplugged. I do know the older trucks used the V-R regulators, but I don't know about this model.
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I have an '88 E-250 with no power to accessories. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light that is below and to the left of the steering wheel. No headlights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.
Earlier I reinstalled that strap and took out the ignition switch. I noticed that the radio turned on when I turned the key to acc. but not when I turned it to run. Would the headlights run through this ignition switch on the column? I have power to the yellow wires coming into the switch and the ground is good. I checked the fusible links I could find out in the engine bay and all tested good but could've missed some. Fuses in the box looked good but don't know if there is a master fuse box for bigger fuses but I don't see one.
1988 E-250 5.8 auto.
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99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
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So this is my wifes vehicle so I don't always get the whole story . I have seen this once or twice over the years. We have the 2008 T&C Touring 4.3L. Bought it brand new. Now we're up to 80k miles.
The problem is that sometimes after starting the van all off the accessories including lights gauges everything are completely dead. If I turn the van off and stay it again it will be fine. I'm thinking the electrical side of the ignition switch but its so random.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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