Jeep - Cherokee :: 1993 - Coolant Doesn't Seem To Be Cycling Properly
Jan 13, 2015
I have a 93 Jeep Cherokee, I just replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, it's not overheating, however the radiator cap isn't even warming up and the thermostat housing heats up quite a bit.
The hose from the radiator to the thermostat gets very hot, but I don't feel anything being pumped. The coolant is also being drained from the reservoir, but I see little to none leaking underneath the vehicle. I pop off the radiator cap while it's in idle and see no movement and the coolant stays cool.
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My inline 6 engine softly stutters and misfires while driving and has the check engine light on whenever this happens. It's becoming more frequent now - 20% of the time I'm driving I'd say. The codes are 11, 12, 27, 34. I've looked up the meanings of the codes and I'm leaning towards its bad fuel injectors or a bad connector leading to the fuel rail. I have lots of bad wiring on my 93 Cherokee haha. I've fixed so far: a bad head light connector, and an exposed wire that connects to my distributor - it would swing and touch my engine block causing the engine to die.
But now I am struggling on how to fix my small stuttering engine problem. So the problem only occurs after I make a strong left hand turn such as a 90 degree or a uturn so that means a connection is being pulled to the right. It doesn't have an issue turning to the right though. I don't have sway bars on my 6" lift so there's a reasonable amount of body roll to pull on the wires etc. When I open the hood with the engine running smoothly I can touch and wiggle the front fuel injectors and sometimes I hear it softly misfire or sputter. What connectors lead up to the fuel rail?
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My Jeep GC ZJ 1993 with 202202 miles V8 engine and automatic transmission cuts off/engine shuts down. I have found that when I put it into 2nd or 1st gear it never shuts off. For example, I am driving with AT in D (Drive) and come to a stop, the engine shuts down. However, if I move the selector to 2nd before coming to a stop it never shuts down. BTW it also shudders and headlights dim and battery voltage drops before it shuts down.
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4, 4.0 L I6, automatic, 169k miles, that often cranks but doesn't start up. When I cut the power and try again, it starts up right away. I'm concerned this workaround will one day not work and I'll be left stranded, so I'd like to fix this if it's cheap and easy. The symptoms suggest either a lack of fuel or lack of spark due to an electrical problem, so I replaced the ASD (auto shutdown) and Fuel Pump relays, but they made no difference. The other two relays - Starter and Cooling Fan - seemed irrelevant. What this could be? Maybe the crank angle sensor? (I'm not even sure where that's located.)
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Why am I losing coolant out of overflow on a 1999 jeep Cherokee classic for ?
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4x4 four liter inline 6. have a coolant drip at bottom radiator hose, change hose. but still drip. Could water pump be leaking. and it running down on the bottom radiator hose.
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I have had a Jeep Grand Cherokee for about 4 years. Over the last year or so, I have been having coolant loss. At first, it was very little over the course of a month. Now it is about a half a gallon over a few days. We can't find any leaks. The oil does not appear milky. There is a bit of moisture under the valve cover. What could be the problem?
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport: Sometimes the directionals shut off after a few blinks and sometimes they don't work at all. I think I identified the area where the blinker noise comes from. It is to the left underneath the steering wheel column.
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I am having a problem solving a will not start issue with my vehicle. It started running a little rough when stopped, it acted as if was going to stall if it remained in gear. I had to place it in neutral to continue to run. I also noticed a backfire condition that was intermittent sometimes under acceleration. After about three days of this condition now the vehicle will not run. I have checked the fuel pressure and it is within specs.
I found there was no spark @ the spark plugs so I checked the crankshaft position sensor and observed a high value of resistance between terminals B&C therefore I installed a new one. After further checking there is no voltage at the wiring connector that supplies 12V to the coil with the ignition in the on position. I'm not sure what is the correct method in checking for this voltage is. I read that it could possibly be the ASD relay so I tried another matching relay and there was still no voltage at the coil. At this point I am somewhat at a standstill and not sure where to proceed.
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Last year I literally replaced the entire A/C system in my 93 F150. (The compressor, the hoses and the evaporator were leaking and I toyed with converting it to 134A so I went ahead and replaced the condenser and all the rest of the parts. I ended up putting R12 back in it since I have a tank.)
I replaced everything, added oil, pulled a vacuum, leak tested it, and charged it back with 2.75 lbs of R12. The A/C worked then (and now) but it was not really cold. I got busy and did not have time to trouble shoot it until this weekend and the pressures and clutch cycle times were withing spec according to the repair manual - air was in the low 90's so the clutch was on constantly, low side pressure in the low 40s and high side in the 180s. The inside center vent air temperature never got below 60 after about a half hour of running on max. It eventually gets the inside temperature cool but not very quickly and certainly not enough to make me take it off high.
I thought maybe the blend door was not closing so I took the glove box apart and can hear the blend door slamming in both the full cold and full hot positions so unless the door has a hole in it or there is some other path around the heater core, I don't think this is the problem. I also double checked the orifice tube and I had used the blue one that again the repair manual calls for. What could be keeping the A/C from working???
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I have had no problems out of my jeep except my check engine light came on and it was a bad 02 Sensor and I was told I didn't need to replace it. Well I was driving down the highway and all of a sudden my jeep died. The radio cut off my air and I put it in neutral and I tried to start it and it would not crank. I coasted in a drive way and it cranked and them died. Now it acts like it wants to start but it wont. Replaced the fuel filter. I am getting fuel to the fuel rail. It will not start with starter fluid. I took the crank sensor off and it replaced it and it still wouldn't crank. My fuel pump makes a whinning sound. My lights come on..My windshield wipers won't. My radio doesn't work and the inside lights well I couldn't get them to go off before I before my vehicle died on me, about 3 weeks before I just took the bulbs out. Would the 02 sensor make it not start?
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I am so darned sick of that lousy BUZZER in my Jeep Comanche ! Where is it and how can I TURN IT OFF ?
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I live on a boat access only island, so desperate. This jeep has over 230,000 km on it. Runs well, but this year started this thing where it won't start first time crank, but always starts second or third go. Bought new battery last year, so doesn't seem to be that kind of issue.
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What would cause a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter inline 6 to backfire every now and then.
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Just bought a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 Auto trans. The other morning my jeep wouldn't start. Power everything works, lights work, back up lights work. Starter had been sluggish so I had it tested. Tested fine. Hook the starter back up and when I attach battery it turns over and runs constantly.
I removed the ignition wire from the starter solenoid and hooked it back up and the same thing happened. So I deduced the starter solenoid was stuck. Bought a new starter and replaced my old. Old starter was tested at autozone and it worked properly there (didn't run without ignition).
I just bought the new starter anyway. Hook up battery and same thing happens--starter turns over. How would just the cable from the battery be able to turn the starter over if it is all good?
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'95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 (bought used 3 years ago), The Jeep sometimes dies while we are driving it. Most of the time we can restart it right away, but others it will make the turning over sound and not "catch" & go vroom.
Other times we'll be driving down the freeway (for example) and it will do a little shutter, like it's going to die and if we push on the gas it kinda skips over the dying part.
We thought it was the fuel pump, so my father-in-law took it to a mechanic and he checked it out and said the fuel pump is fine. His assistant drove it around for a while & it never died on the (of course). So he said it was fine and suggested we got some bad fuel and told us to put in some Chevron, but later that night we drove it close to home for 20min & it worked just fine. Ate some dinner at Mom & Dad's then it wouldn't start up again.
We've changed the Fuel Filter, it has a new Radiator, New Brakes and Just got an Oil Change, we filled it up with Regular Chevron and added 'HEAT' (additive to get rid of moisture)... We are at a loss...
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92 Jeep Cherokee 4wd, 4.0 motor, automatic. Several things have been done recently, new timing chain, coil, distributor and cap, map sensor, computer, cam shaft timing sensor. motor now will start and run. It runs well at idle, but the timing gets all out of whack as the RPM's increase. Is there a knock sensor on this motor, and could it cause this? If so, where is it located?
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I have a 96 grand Cherokee Laredo, and the other day it just wouldn't start. The jeep will not turn over, so i started checking some things out and determined that it was not getting a spark. Since i replaced the distributor cap recently i figured it had to be the ignition coil, so i replaced that. Still no go, i tested to see if the ignition coil was getting a spark by using an ohm meter, and nothing.
So something is preventing the spark even getting that far. I do not know much about vehicles, and i have to think it is something in the electrical system (like a chip or something),possibly security system, or NSS.
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Transmission not shifting into overdrive, running high on RPM's, BUT not all the time. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Could it be an electrical Module that is causing the transmission not to shift into high gear? Had the transmission checked out several times without going inside it and they say it is fine???
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I currently have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee that I seems to die on me. I will charge the battery to 100 percent and its actually a good battery. The vehicle will run fine and then out of nowhere it wont start. I throw the battery jump box on it and it starts. I was thinking that something has been obviously drawing power from the battery. What it could be?
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I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee that yesterday the key got stuck in the ignition and i cannot remove it. At the same time i used to have to press the brake to shift from park to any gear now it just moves freely without using the brake.
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