Jaguar X :: 2004 - Delay In Shifting As The Car Accelerates
Jun 19, 2011
I purchased an 04 X-Type with 53k about a year ago. Nice car, great ride and style. There is one thing, though, that annoys me. It seems to shift late or shift awkwardly as the car accelerates. When I depress the accelerator at moderate speed (20- 35 mph or so), the car shifts but seems to delay (late shift). It's not a kick- just an awkward shift. Is this a characteristic of this model? No other issues. Solid car.
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2006 GX470, ~65k mi. When shifting from P to R, P to D, or R to D, the transmission often (but not always) seems to have to think about it a while. When it shifts fine it takes about 1sec for the transmission to change gears. When it's being cranky it takes ~4secs. There are no other symptoms.
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I have a 1999 Mazda 626. Lately, it seems to shift into 2nd gear much too late - ~5000 rpm - regardless of acceleration. Is there a good place to start diagnosing this problem? I've heard everything from new tranny to neutral safety switch.
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Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
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My car is having delayed shifting (2.0t Auto) when shifting from Park to Drive. Also, whenever im slowing down to turn right or left, and press the gas, it seems to lurch forwars, as it is still downshifting, which seems to be really delayed. Im hoping its the Valve Body since its covered under extended warranty until October, and want to get this taken care of before I trade this piece of crap in for a Ford or Honda. Its in the shop (won't let VW touch it since the dealer screwed up several times), and was wondering if this sounds like an issue of the Valve Body...
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I currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
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I have a 2008 Accent (base model for the most part, no C/C), and my transmission seems to be slipping a bit. The symptoms are: slow acceleration, a delay in gear shifting, and after the 30MPH mark, it takes forever to get up to anything near 60. I just wanted to know if it's a simple solution such as topping off the transmission fluid, or if it's a bigger issue.
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About a month ago, the Service Engine Light (CEL) came on and as a result there was a very slight delay in shifting and the Turbo did not engage at all. I brought it to the dealership for scanning. Error codes read as per work order:
P2562: Turbocharger Boost control Position sensor 'A' circuit
P2563: Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor 'A' Circuit range/performance
"The tech tested the pins and wires from the sensor to the PCM and all tested fine." Concluded sensor was faulty and ordered replacement part.
Once part was in, they performed the work to replace the sensor, test drove it and pronounced okay. By that same evening, the SEL came back on and the same symptoms developed. Brought it back the next morning and the same error codes came up. My dealership escalated the issue to the engineers with Hyundai and a couple of days later they replied with a possible solution.
From work order following:
"As per RO performed 11-20-007 Sonata Turbo EWGA inspection and adjustment form DTC P2562. Vehicle had under 4.1 V, adjusted rod from waste gate accordingly and road tested. Engine light did not come back on and vehicle operating normally".
I've waited a few days under normal driving conditions before posting and can state the the SEL has not returned and vehicle does indeed seem to be back to normal.
Apparently these symptoms are known for the 2.0T in the Sonata (i haven't verified this) which led the engineers to suggest checking the waste gate.
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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There is never an issue when the weather is warm, but as soon as the first cold day in September in New York occurs, we usually have to wait 5 minutes or longer to shift the car into reverse or drive.We have taken the car to several repair shops to deal with this nuisance repair, and no one seems to want to investigate.
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I have a 2005 2.5 vw jetta.
It has 150,000 miles....the cars been working just fine untill DEC of last year. I had the dealer check the transmission fluid and they said it was low....so they flushed and refilled the transmission oil...they didnt see any metal but that didnt fix the problem.....
Now i have the car not shifting correctly ....theres a delay when shifting in all gears but it is intermittent, sometimes it shifts hard and sometimes you can just baby the throttle and it wont shift as hard.....once on the freeway the car runs fine......but when coming to a stop you can feel the downshifting.....
I figured it has something to do with the valve body....my concern is the dealerships have quoted me 2000$ to replace the valve-body....the cars paid for and was wondering if i should just move onto a different jetta or fix this one?
If i fix the valve body will this jetta have the same issue later? Also i do have the vacuum pump leaking engine oil....not much can this be fixed while doing the valve body job???
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I have a 2000, F250, 7.3, automatic with 220,500 miles. When I purchased my truck used in 2008 (173,000 miles), i had the transmission rebulit by a ford dealership. Okay my problem is now that the weather is cooler here in Texas, when I back out of my parking spot in the morning, it takes several seconds for my truck to engage into drive. The rest of the day it works fine, only first thing in the morning. No problems driving (shifting) during the day.
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I have a 2004 Jaguar X-Type 3.0 that I use as a daily driver. This morning, when I got in the car I immediately noticed a strong smell of gas. I've had an empty gas can in the trunk for a couple days so I wrote it off as being due to that and expected the smell to dissipate after a bit. I turned on the A/C and the smell only got worse. Obviously I've got a leak somewhere, the weird thing is that the engine bay doesnt smell at all and I'm not able to smell it when outside the car. I plan to take it in to get looked at (my poor wallet) but I'd like to have a good place to start.
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I've been noticing over the past couple years that sometimes when I accelerate, there's a slight delay between the time I press my foot down on the pedal and when acceleration actually happens. From reading other threads it would seem that the most common fix is to re-flash the ECU. I bought a DiabloSport Predator tuner along with a CAI a while back to improve performance/gas mileage and I was wondering if there's a way I can use the tuner to re-flash.
If not, do most ford repair shops already carry these? I don't want to buy a flash programmer. Also, if the shop does carry this type of an item, what is the average cost to get it re-flashed?
I own an '04 F150 XLT 5.4l.
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I bought my 2005 f150 three years ago and the auto headlights never worked. I have just turned them on manually. Couple weeks ago they started to delay coming on and now they do not work at all. All other lights work including fog lights.
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I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
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I've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.
My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.
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I have a 2008 RX350 AWD with only 500 miles on it so far and I am starting to get concerned about what seems to be excessive slipping or a delay in response in the trans. Under normal forward driving the trans seems to shift very smooth. The problem occurs under situations where I am coming to a near stop, basically coasting, and then have to accelerate again to continue forward. This could be in a slow moving traffic type situation or when maneuvering through a parking lot. When I try to execute a small increase in speed the engine revs but the trans doesn't respond.
It's as though it's in neutral and unable to decide which gear it should be in. After a 2 to as long as a 5 second delay it finally engages and moves forward. The condition is even worse if I am heading into a slight incline. Once it is engaged everything is fine and the subsequent shifts are very smooth. When starting from a complete stop it works perfectly. I've never had a transmission slip this much in any vehicle. There was one situation where I was almost broadsided because the RX delayed in moving forward.
I realize this is a subjective call but I am trying to determine what level of slipping in the trans is considered normal under the conditions I've described. I have searched and read past threads about issues with the earlier model years but I thought they were resolved by now. I haven't taken the RX in for service yet but I fear I will get the standard - everything is working as designed - answer from my dealership.
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My Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually. The installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. Seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut, when i arm it.
The 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but there's a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
Can I change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? I want there to be NO delay, if possible. If not, I may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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What would cause my RPM needle to go all the way to the right (red zone) with no change in the engine. It most often happens the first few minutes of driving, but can happen at any time. The engine does not rev up at all. I have taken it in but they could find nothing that would cause this to happen.
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I own an 89 jag xj6. Something seems to be draining the battery. It can start fine in the evening but by the next morning its dead. If it sets too long its completely dead.. nothing... The alternator appears to be charging, after running it awhile it will start again. I put a new battery in it several months ago. The former owner said something about it maybe being a switch of some sort that has something to do with the climate control system?
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