The car runs great, but ABS brake always engaged at start-up. Heavy vibration. The ABS warning light comes on after a couple of miles and then the brakes work fine. Changed the wheel speed senors, but repairman said it has to be dealer programmed. Dealer wants to replace ABS pump and module. Not way. Is an easy fix? Jaguar 2002 X .....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Jaguar Vanden Plas, when I start it up there is a whine, the whine continues when I press gas and while the car is running. I just had the serpintine belt changed. What could be the cause or possible causes.
View 3 RepliesMy Jaguar X-Type has a 5-speed manual transmission, and when I am driving and shift up, sometimes it starts jerking pretty violently like it might be slipping out of gear, and I have to shift into another gear to get it to stop. It seems to be exacerbated if I am accelerating. I can always get it to stop by shifting, but am afraid at some point that it will not slip into another gear and I'll be stranded. I had a mechanic look at it but he has no idea what is causing the problem and I don't want to pay for multiple repairs that may or may not fix the problem! The car's got about 125,000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 camry has a vibration feel while pumping the brake pedal (no other vibration from car). It happens, when you drive slow or fast and stop. Happens when the engine is not even turned on and the brake pedal is just pumped. Its hard to describe the feeling other than zig zaggy on the way down, pulsating, etc. It starts to feel this way on the way down and halfway through the press ends smooth.
I took it to a auto mechanic two days ago and he stated the car had zero brake issues. Rotors and pads are in good condition (sometimes these are the cause for the vibration, but only when driving and stopping), fluid level are good etc. I asked him to test it out and pump it slowly or adruptly, at standstill or while driving, but he still couldn't understand what i was talking about. Researched on the net and found out the likely problem has to do with either Brake booster pump or Master brake cylinder. From a tsb (like a recall note from toyota, see below) , it seemed certain it had to do with the master brake cylinder. I took it to Toyota today and they stated it had to do with the brake booster pump instead , its not worth fixing bc it cost an arm and a leg. Just now i stopped by Active Green + Ross at 110 Gerrard and he stated that its most likely the Master Brake Cylinder, since if you were to pump on the brake while the car was off, turn on the ignition, and if the pedal goes down smoothly , the booster pump should be ok. (it does go down smoothly)
He also stated that for a refurb master cylinder (non toyota) + labour it would come out to 250 bucks. The dealership was going to charge me 1500 for the booster pump and labour. They also advised not to used non toyota parts.
This issue does not hamper safety issues with the car. Its more of an annoyance that i'd like to take care of. I also don't want to pay 1500 for a car with 150k on it.
I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
View 9 RepliesMy 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
When I am accelerating heavy and then slow down as it is engine braking i get a strange vibration. It seems to come from the drive line i just looked over the car today there is nothing loose all suspension is tight drive shaft looks good and the rubber u joint looks good too. I noticed it after I put in the resonator delete but I didn't think that it could cause it.
View 2 RepliesSo this vibration/ cluncking seems to be from between the front seats and mostly during off the line acceration, and from all I can find it's the flex disc, but my flex disc shows no signs of damage. Can these discs go bad without looking bad or is this possibly the hanger bearing on the driveshaft?
I am also looking for any other possibilities for the cause of this vibation/ clunking as there sounds like something is hitting the bottom of the car but there are no impact marks to show me where the issue is
B5 Passat wagon coil over installation Vibration happens during acceleration.
View 6 RepliesI've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
Just bought my R a few months ago and love it so far. I've recently encountered a slight buzz or vibration. I'll get down to the nitty gritty and not bore you with long drawn out information. Basically under heavy acceleration the driver side vibrates/ buzzes down by the floorboard. Now this only happen under heavy acceleration. I even did a test in 1st gear. Heavy accellerate under 2k RPM's, 3k RPM's, 4k RPM's and the vibration happened under these heavy acceleration periods. It's almost like there was also a loss of power during this vibration/ buzz, which leads me to believe it might be the clutch.
I took off the prop shaft and drove in FWD for a few weeks. The vibration was still prominent. Took of both front driveshafts and inspected those and they seem perfect but THE VIBRATION IS STILL HERE. Could this be the clutch?
If you have an intake and are under heavier acceleration, do you get any vibrations in the car while getting that growl sound?
I have the intake pipe zip tied so that it is away from the brake lines but I'm trying to figure out if the vibes are coming from just the sound frequency or something or if it's something else.
Question about my 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe SE. The car has 25,000 miles on it, and just recently like in the last 1,000 miles I have notice when I use the AC, or even the air without the AC the engine reacts very poorly like it is under extremely heavy load. The car shakes and vibrates.
I completely understand that in AC mode, the compressor kicks in, but this to me seems excessive. The car vibrates and the idle drops substantially. AC on is worse that no AC.
In addition, idle or under 35 is worse that HWY driving. The vibration is so pronounced that I sometimes wont turn the AC or air on as the vehicle feels like it is going to rip itself apart.
This is something new and never vibrated this much before the 25,000 miles. Anything I should look into or have the Hyundai Dealer look into? What I may be over looking? Would more stout battery work?
My 2001 Outback has developed a problem in the last few days. When I move the car from a dead stop, I go through a brief period of heavy vibration coming from the back of the car, exactly as if I am running over a rumble strip. It occurs as I am accelerating away from the stop just after the clutch is totally let out. Once I get to a high-enough velocity, I no longer feel it. However, if I maintain a very low velocity I can feel some vibration but not quite as pronounced as it was coming from a dead stop.
I have been able to make this happen in 1st and 2nd gear, I have not tried in 3rd, 4th and 5th. It does not happen in reverse. I tested the clutch by putting the car up against the back wall of my garage, revving the engine and putting the car into 4th and 5th gear and the car stalled, as it should. The clutch did not slip. This clutch has about 60,000 miles on it. The previous clutch was replaced at about 85,000 miles. The problem has been getting worse steadily during a just completed a 700 mile holiday round trip. Could this be the clutch? Could it be something in the transmission?
I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. I got distracted when driving and ran through a dirt center divide and got a flat tire.I had a replacement tire put on and after I started driving from the tow yard there was an immediate heavy vibration. There's a big bump every time the car starts and when switches gears (I have an automatic) and in some gears the vibration is less intense, also when I turn the car at certain angles the vibration seems to go away completely but then returns when I began driving straight again.
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 Prius has been sitting for about 25 days while I've been out of town. I just tried to drive it, but it feels like the parking brake is engaged even though I've pushed it off (and the lights are showing it is off).
A bit more detail: Car has been parked on a relatively steep incline (maybe 35 degrees) for about 25 days (this is its normal parking spot). Parking brake was engaged during this time. Weather is mild to warm (it's Hawaii). When I try to back up it feels like there is something behind the one of the rear tires, and the car almost starts to lift up a bit. (But there's nothing there that I can see.) I might have been able to push the gas a bit more, but was afraid of damaging something. When I put the car in drive and take my foot off the brake it rolls slightly (and very slowly forward), but not nearly what it should (I'm afraid to push the gas at all because there is a wall very close to the front of my car).
Seems like maybe the brake is stuck or something of the sort...
I have bi-xenon lamps and DRLs. The manual states that the DRLs are supposed to turn off when the transmission is in Park and the parking brake is engaged. My DRLs do NOT turn off.
So, my question is: Do your DRLs turn off when the car's in Park and the parking brake is engaged?
So I just bought a used 06 Passat VR6 (my third vw) and my e-brake light kept coming on for some reason this morning. I never turned it on so I just followed the manual and held the brake and pressed the button. The e-brake light turns off. So I turn to reverse and then the e-brake light comes on by itself and a funny beeping noise turns on, almost like a siren. I put it in park. I hold the brake and push the button and the e-brake turns off, but the process repeats for about an hour.
Now the e-brake light doesn't come on but the funny siren noise turns on when I put it in anything other than park. The siren sometimes turns off after a few seconds but comes on again while I drive, and then disappears. My e-brake is not engaged during this time. What could be the problem?
I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for.
It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.
Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap caliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as caliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? The disc/rotor is not warped.
I have an issue with a truck I recently purchased. I have a vibration that starts around 50, feels like a wobbling vibration. Than once I hit 75 it feels like the truck is going to fall apart. Heavy rumbling.
It's a Ford F-350 dually extended cab. With 115,000 miles on it.
I took it to the shop to balance out the wheels and all the wheels needed atleast 2 oz of weighs on each side. Some have as much as 4.75 oz on one side. Is it possible that I need 6 brand new rims?