1998 Isuzu Oasis ... I hear a chirping noise that becomes more frequent and high pitched as the car speeds up until about 20 mph then I can't hear it any more.A few weird things: goes away when I apply the breaks; does not begin until I've been driving about 10 minutes; does not happen in reverse.Had it to the shop twice. First time they ground the break rotor. No change. Second time greased some parts. No change.
View 3 RepliesThe car is at rest, engine on, when I turn the wheel (either sides), there is this popping sounds, coming out from the front suspension. It almost sounds like the Titanic moments before it fell apart... It also happens when I drive slow, like parking or backing out...etc. Doesn't happen at >10mph.
So I had my friend turned the wheel and I inspect it. I can feel the spring or something popping on the strut mount of the front wheels. SEE PICTURE.
I also uploaded a video with sound. I have sufficient tools to remove the struts and springs.
2009 LE
Video : [URL] ......
I have a 2001 Toyota Echo which developed severe vibration feedback to the steering wheel when the car was driven at low speed or stopped at a traffic sign or signal.
I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they checked the brakes, replaced the front rotors. They also checked the fuel pump and other engine components. The spark plugs and PCV vale were replaced, as well as the crank seal.
When I left the garage, the vibration reappeared after driving about five minutes. I immediately went back to the garage and waited while the mechanic checked the car. He came to the waiting room and said I would not believe what they found. I went to the garage with him and the hood on the car was raised. He started the car and there was no unusual vibration.
He closed the hood and the vibration started again. The problem was that the underhood reinforcement panel had come unwelded (or unglued) and it was vibrating. A mechanic came from the body shop and put a sealer/filler at the loose spots, we let the car sit for a while, the mechanic said the sealer/filler would expand to close the gap, and I drove the car home. The vibration had stopped.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry. About 10 months ago, when I get a transmission fluid change, the mechanic told me that my power steering fluid is dirty. A few month later, in the cold winter month, my steering wheel make loud screeching noise when the engine is cold only. The mechanic told me that I have a small power steering leak. But since I don't see the power steering fluid level goes down and the mechanic say I don't have to fix it now, I didn't do anything about it.
About a month ago, there is a squeaking noise come from my steering wheel every time I drive very slowly out of (or into) my driveway and turning the wheel. Now I heard the noise when I drive slowly (10 mph) and turning the wheel too. So what is the problem that cause the noise when I turn the wheel at slow speed? I only drive about 5k miles a year. Is it safe if I just continue to ignore the problem?
Also, the color of my current power steering fluid is amber, but a little dark. Which power steering fluid should I buy?
I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
I've got a question about my 1998 Isuzu Rodeo LS. I've owned it for about a year and a half and I haven't had any complaints so far. However, about six months ago (you can see how quick I am to get on these things!) the car developed this little quirk. Whenever I get in the car and turn the key the car will try to start up but fails about half the time. It always starts on the second try but only sometimes on the first try. It seems to start easier right after I've filled up and is noticeably worse when I'm close to empty.
View 8 RepliesMy husband and I just recently (probably a little over a month ago) received a 1998 Isuzu Amigo 2.2 5 speed from a friend as a gift. We had some issues with it and discovered the spark plug wires were in the wrong order on the coil pack. We fixed this and the car ran great for about a day then started bogging down and eventually wouldn't start at all. We discovered at this point that there was a blown head gasket so we took apart the head sanded it down, cleaned everything replaced all the gaskets when putting it back together. We also found at the same time that the timing was off so we fixed that as well. After putting everything back together the car ran awesome for about 2 1/2 days and now when we go to drive it we turn it on it idles fine no issues but when we go to drive it once we put it into gear and press the gas sometimes we have power and sometimes there is no power. It comes and goes and when it is there it runs great but then we loose power again. We have tried replacing carburetor cleaning all the parts and spark plugs rechecking the torque on bolts on the head and nothing seems to work. And now there is a clicking noise coming from what seems like the exhaust side of the motor.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1998 isuzu trooper. it is over heating and there is air being put into the cooling system. there is a lost of fluid but only the same amount each each time and i dnt knw where too. i replaced water pump had radiator serviced and it flowing at the right flow for truck. it still over heated. i tried chemical called blue devil it worked for two days then failed it is freezing cold here and no garage but do have all tools.
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 V6 2 wheel drive I don't know where the crank shift position sensor is located. I don't have 310.00 to pay someone to replace this.
View 4 RepliesI just changed the fuel pump on my 98 Isuzu Rodeo and now it wont start. The pump is getting power because i can hear it humming. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I checked the the shrader valve. I tested the battery and its fully charged but it wont start.
View 19 RepliesMy wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
Our 98 Saab's A/C seems to have a slow leak. Do-it-yourself, stop-leak, A/C recharges available at stores like Advance and NAPA Auto?
View 1 RepliesI have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
View 7 RepliesI've got a 98 beetle that has started squeaking when i hit 30 mph or so. it's quiet until 30, then i get a squeak that sounds like someone's bouncing up and down on a bed. the squeaking stops when i slow down to about 15. it doesn't squeak when the car's not moving and i rev the engine.
View 4 RepliesWe bought our used 2009 Tiguan TDI 4motion AWD with electronic transmission and auto hold (whatever that is) when it was still under warranty. We are second owner of this car sold in the Dominican Republic, but it was build in Germany. Having done some research online, we know a bit more about the car, but it has a Spanish owner's manual so we are still learning......Love the car; fabulous milage and pickup especially in the mountains here. Perfect for this island of potholes and variable road conditions too.
Anyway, I didn't think it had a "car alarm" of any kind. Nothing on the key fob to turn it on or off and no "panic button". BUT it apparently has one! This one goes off when the car windows are down and it starts to rain! It's a cute little mildish squeak or chirp! We do have rain sensors for the wipers, so I assume that's related.
I was driving down the interstate and sped up to pass a car once I started to slow down the CES light came on and the truck started to shutter really bad. I got it to a scanner and it said misfire Cylinder 6 and he suggested that i change the cap rotor plugs and wires since it has been a long time since it had been done. I did so and and the problem has continues. It idles real rough acts like it is going to die, then under power it smooths out a little but you can still tell it it where. Above 3000 the CES blinks until you slow down and the the scanner still says misfire cylinder 6.
View 4 RepliesMy engine is very slow to warm up when the temp is below 30 degrees. Engine will reach about 170 after about 5 miles. What should I check first? Is it hard to change the thermostat or is there something else that controls the engine temp?
View 1 RepliesMy 97 Saturn SC1 dies as I slow to stop. It will restart but the RPM goes very high for a little while before it drops back down to normal. What do I need to do to fix it?
View 3 RepliesI've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?
View 12 RepliesMy 2008 Avalon A/C fan speed periodically won't run at the highest speed. When I take it off of "auto", I can step up the fan speed and see the segments on the display light up with each increase in speed. Each segment lights up (they are in a oval shape) indicating that it should be at the highest speed, but it just doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to.
I think this fan motor is controlled by a PWM controller rather than resistors. Is that correct and where I could find the PWM controller? My thought was that if it was not too expensive I would change that out first. If the fan works, could there be a problem with the fan motor?
At any speed my car likes to slow down a bit then go back up to speed... feels like little mini lurches. Why... dirty fuel injectors?
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