Isuzu - Amigo :: 1998 - Looses Power On Acceleration
Apr 21, 2016
My husband and I just recently (probably a little over a month ago) received a 1998 Isuzu Amigo 2.2 5 speed from a friend as a gift. We had some issues with it and discovered the spark plug wires were in the wrong order on the coil pack. We fixed this and the car ran great for about a day then started bogging down and eventually wouldn't start at all. We discovered at this point that there was a blown head gasket so we took apart the head sanded it down, cleaned everything replaced all the gaskets when putting it back together. We also found at the same time that the timing was off so we fixed that as well. After putting everything back together the car ran awesome for about 2 1/2 days and now when we go to drive it we turn it on it idles fine no issues but when we go to drive it once we put it into gear and press the gas sometimes we have power and sometimes there is no power. It comes and goes and when it is there it runs great but then we loose power again. We have tried replacing carburetor cleaning all the parts and spark plugs rechecking the torque on bolts on the head and nothing seems to work. And now there is a clicking noise coming from what seems like the exhaust side of the motor.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I've got a question about my 1998 Isuzu Rodeo LS. I've owned it for about a year and a half and I haven't had any complaints so far. However, about six months ago (you can see how quick I am to get on these things!) the car developed this little quirk. Whenever I get in the car and turn the key the car will try to start up but fails about half the time. It always starts on the second try but only sometimes on the first try. It seems to start easier right after I've filled up and is noticeably worse when I'm close to empty.
View 8 Replies
I have a 1998 isuzu trooper. it is over heating and there is air being put into the cooling system. there is a lost of fluid but only the same amount each each time and i dnt knw where too. i replaced water pump had radiator serviced and it flowing at the right flow for truck. it still over heated. i tried chemical called blue devil it worked for two days then failed it is freezing cold here and no garage but do have all tools.
View 9 Replies
I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 V6 2 wheel drive I don't know where the crank shift position sensor is located. I don't have 310.00 to pay someone to replace this.
View 4 Replies
1998 Isuzu Oasis ... I hear a chirping noise that becomes more frequent and high pitched as the car speeds up until about 20 mph then I can't hear it any more.A few weird things: goes away when I apply the breaks; does not begin until I've been driving about 10 minutes; does not happen in reverse.Had it to the shop twice. First time they ground the break rotor. No change. Second time greased some parts. No change.
View 3 Replies
I just changed the fuel pump on my 98 Isuzu Rodeo and now it wont start. The pump is getting power because i can hear it humming. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I checked the the shrader valve. I tested the battery and its fully charged but it wont start.
View 19 Replies
I was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
View 3 Replies
All the brake lights and master lights are on, and it seems to drive fine then at a stop light i start to move and it jerks a bit then looses almost all power it will still drive but barely and it has high RPM'S then I pull over and restart the car and it goes away for about another 10 to 20 miles. DTC codes are fuel to air meetering, replace hybrid battery pack, and block 11 becomes weak, do you think this might be caused by a bad skid control ECU?
View 2 Replies
The car idles fine, but after a couple seconds in each gear (5spd. manual) it looses power and starts to stumble, but if i keep it at a low rpm, it will run. So, if it is the catalytic converter. how can i un-clog it? Dearborn protocol adapter.
View 1 Replies
2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
View 7 Replies
My f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
View 12 Replies
I have a 337 running the ATP gt2x kit with revo stg3 and external fuel w/550cc injectors. The car has power in the first three gears until 4200 RPM then it acts like it backfires and then looses all power, but it will drive and boost normal in 4th,5th, and 6th gear. I have basic boost settings running on the revo and cant figure out what the problem is.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2006 pontiac montana sv6 AWD
Once everything warms up the steering looses power at low rpm and starts making whistling noises around the steering wheel and can also be herd outside the car somewhere.
I have just replaced the power steering pump and flushed the system. I also replaced the belt and tensioner at the same time.
Air has been bled from the system and i have checked everywhere for leaks and cant see any and I am not loosing any fluids. But I still have a lack of power and the whistle noise sounds like it is sucking air into the system somewhere..
I still get some small bubbles coming up in the reservoir even tho i have bled the system soo many times now.. What is going on?
View 4 Replies
I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
View 10 Replies
Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
View 3 Replies
The problem i got is that when i step on the car it have a lot of power in the first 4500rpm but after that it looses all it's torque. it's really weird. I got the car scanned and the scanner found a problem with the cat converter, but something tell me that's not it. The check engine light is on.
View 16 Replies
I have a 1998 honda civic LX that slips very very seldom upon acceleration. It happens under light acceleration and medium acceleration (I dont accelerate hard enough to see it slip at high acceleration, it might!)
What happens is, the car stops accelerating and simply idles. As the motor idles the car drifts and slows down. I have never done it, but I bet in this state I could come to a complete stop just by drifting if I keep my foot in the same spot on the accelerator. When I change my foot, and accelerate harder, the car wakes back up and keeps accelerating like nothing even happened.
I don't think it is the transmission slipping, because in that instance revs would climb and acceleration would halt and that is not the case. I recently gave the car a huge tune up, here's the list
Valve adjustment
Oil and filter change
Cleaned throttle body and IAC
New distributor and cap (Plug wires aren't really in good shape)
New spark plugs
New air filter
Set the timing
New belts
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned battery terminals
I don't know what could cause this problem! The only thing I have come up is the Possibility a TPS (Throttle position sensor) going bad. The only thing that I know of that is wrong with the car is the exhaust manifold has a big crack in it right before the upstream 02 sensor. No doubt this leak is messing with the cars readings of the AFRs. Could this be part of the problem? It is throwing a code for the catalyst system.
View 2 Replies
When stopped and accelerating normally I hear an audible clunk, but feel nothing. If I gently accelerate from stop it does not occur. 1998 ford ranger 4x4 ....
View 1 Replies
Concerning cars accelerating out of control. I have a 98 pontiac gtp. The garage has not checked out the cable yet. They were thinking it was something else. Thought they had it fixed. Still not fixed. Every time I step on the gas to go into passing gear at any speed the accelerator stay on. I have found nothing to get out of the situation except back the key off one click. Acceleration stops. I still have power steering and brakes. Then I shift into neutral and restart it while I am still going down the road. I can make the car stick on every time with out fail. It only happens when I press the peddle all the way down at once. Very dangerous to drive. I drive it because I know not to go into passing gear and how to come out of it if it does stick on. Turning it one click shuts off your head lights too. Found that out when I got it back and was driving after dark, after the garage thought it was fixed, and got to experience panic of not being able to see for a moment. I unplugged the cruise and pulled the fuse on it a long time ago thinking that was the problem. Could it be the throttle body or cable? If it is the cable why does it go back to normal right away when I click the key off one click and put it in neutral and restart it fine.
View 6 Replies
I have a 1998 C1500 Silverado, with the 4.3 vortec engine, with 88k miles.
Upon initial acceleration the truck stumbles, sometimes even dies when taking off. I have had the codes read, and have gotten a P0102 and a P0404. I have swapped the MAF and EGR Valve out with a known good ones from the parts store; cleaned the throttle body; looked for vacuum lines that could be the problem but can't find anything.
I have even changed out the fuel filter since the engine sounds like it is starving.
Also, the transmission doesn't want to shift unless I let up on the acceleration pedal. I can get up to about 55 MPH and the RPMs sky rocket before it shifts, and the engine begins to ping before shifting.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. My problem is jerky application of acceleration. I note slack in the cable connecting the pedal to the engine throttle. Is there any way to adjust this cable length to remove the slack.
View 5 Replies
