Intrigue :: Random Stall On Sharp Left Turn When Engine RPM Is Low
Mar 8, 2016
Just had a new issue pop up - sometimes, when making a sharp left turn when the engine RPM is low (going into driveway, turning at a stop sign), the engine will suddenly die. It seems to be running fine otherwise, it does not idle rough, and the idle RPM is around 600-700. It never dies on the highway or higher speeds, yet anyway.
I do notice that my power steering pump is making a little noise. It is an aftermarket pump. The steering assist seems to work fine though.
I recently had the spark plugs, valve cover gasket, and a fuel pressure sensor replaced. As I understand it, the mechanics checked the fuel pump and it was working fine.
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Every time we make a sharp right or left turn the engine on my van stalls. It has to be completely restarted. In the last year we replaced the trans and steering column and had a major tune-up. So far, no one has been able to diagnose the problem.
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A while back as I was driving, I heard some sort of clunk, and the steering wheel locked and would not turn left. It then unlocked after a few seconds. Ever since then, it has been very hard to turn to the left (and right, at slow speeds and on sharp turns, but much easier than turning left). This happened a few days after I replaced both front end struts and inner tie rod ends, and got an alignment - they were cheap quick struts (entire assembly), but seem to be of fairly good quality.
Initially after some consultation I thought it was the power steering pump, so I replaced that. It became easier to turn right, but still very hard to turn left. I took the front end off the ground and turned the wheel all the way left and right, no problem or resistance. I am nearly certain it is not the pump.
At this point, I am fairly certain it is either the steering gear or some part of the rack and pinion. I am planning on getting the assembly replaced. The fastest and cheapest way is apparently to just buy the entire steering gear/r&p assembly. Would bad strut mounts ever cause an issue like this? Any other possibilities besides the steering linkage?
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I have 35k on my 2009 camry, (past warranty). All of a sudden in the last few days when I make a sharp left turn (like into a parking spot) I hear a grinding noise from my car. Not really a full on grinding, but like a quiet fart can muffler noise. No issues with alignment, driving straight, or sharp right turns.
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I have a 2013 Santa Fe with a 2.0T. A couple of days ago, I heard a squealing noise when I make a sharp turn to the left, like maybe a power steering belt would do. This has continued and I have also noticed that the AC fan almost completely dies at the same time. Car has 6,000 miles.
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We have an '07 wagon that recently started exhibiting the following: When doing a sharp turn left or right you can hear a rotational shhhhusshhhing sound... shussshhh *pause* shusshhh *pause*.. etc. Its obviously linked to the front wheels since going straight does not produce the sound. Brakes and rotors have 13k on them; dealer has checked out the car and says everything looks good and the bearings are fine.
Could this be CV joints or something similar? Where to look? This is not a thud thud thud (which I have heard before when another car of ours needed new cv joints). Safety is main concern, don't want bearings freezing while driving..
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So four lanes, divided, with a left turn lane, five lanes at the intersection. I'm down ~15 mph, maximum turn speed and one car is just clearing intersection and and +100 yards from next approaching slug of traffic. Keeping the speed, I make the left turn confident no problem then halfway through turn:
feels like a soft tuck
traction light flashes
already to straighten out
everything normal
This is the second time I've seen this in a year. Pavement dry, 48 hours since last rain; ~8:00 AM so rush hour is on. Before doing some parking lot tests, any clue about how to replicate?
My dashcam SD card did not play.
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I have a 2006 with 106K miles. Noticed after making a sharp left turn in a parking lot that the Red Triangle came on along with a beep and the message, "Problem" on the touch screen. Started happening more frequently either when the wheel is turning left or if I'm driving straight and the car drifts a little towards the left if I'm on the highway. Today it happened about 6 times. Warning goes off after a couple of seconds.
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I've had my R since late mid-summer, and one of the first things I noticed was this clunk sound when reversing into my parking spot and when making an aggressive sharp turn. Usually Left.
After reading multiple threads on this topic, I came to the conclusion that it was my sub-frame and the bolts need replacing. I got in a GB for the tyrol subframe stiffening kit after reading some good reviews/responses.
Today, on my day off, I finally went to a mechanic to get this installed. I just changed my mechanic, and this was my first visit to the guy hes had over 10 years experience at vw and just opened up his own shop. He did a great job, torqued the bolts to spec, made me drive around, do some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear, reverse forward etc.
So hes about to pull the car back in to retorque and.... CLUNK...
Get in the car, reproduce the sound, get the car back up on the hoist... and at this point I'm expecting the worse. He takes my control arms off, checks the end links...
Brings the car down, and the clunking sound is louder than ever. It was the weathergaurd. When I turned on the wheel it was pulling it out and when I straightened the wheel it was popping it back into place, making a big clunk sound.
This was the exact sound that I was hearing, thinking it was my subframe. The bolts that came out were not stretched or bent out of shape like the ones you see in other reviews. They're actually in great shape. I'm glad I did the Tyrol kit and do not regret it, and I definitely feel a difference when I went into some aggressive turns.
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My steering pulls hard left or hard right, and also seems to have a mind of its own when it turns sharp right or left suddenly, as though someone else is driving. It's very disconcerting when you think you're making a left and the truck veers right.
Today I was making a left onto a bridge and truck kept going straight. I almost hit the bridge. I have an 06 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel. What this could be?
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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We have a 1999 4Runner with the V6 engine, auto tranny, and 230k miles. For going on a year now the engine will occasionally stall when at idle…usually happening at stop lights. The engine starts right back up. This may occur once every other month or once a week for several weeks. Stalling has occurred with warm engine and cold engine, during raining/damp period and when dry. Never has the check engine light come on or has it generated fault codes. Dealer can’t find anything wrong. We’ve replaced Air Idle Control Sensor (OEM), Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Airflow Sensor, and cleaned the throttle body. Plug wires and timing belt were replaced a couple of years ago. Other than this one issue it runs great. What to try next.
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I have a 2004 V8, still running strong at over 101,550 miles. Aside from two strange warnings, it's a total blast to drive. It's especially fun to shock people with the interior, since most people just think it looks like a big Passat. They probably thing it's a bit large for a VW, roll their eyes, and then move on their lives, mistaking one of the most underrated cars in history for Germany's answer to the Toyota Avalon. However, all that is not really relevant right now.
What's relevant is that it randomly complains that there is some malfunction in the left rear signal. Specifically, it's the left rear one. Funnily enough, when it happens, the left rear signal starts working again after restarting the car, removing the key before doing so in order to restart the onboard computer systems. What's going on?
A second, significantly-less annoying problem is that it randomly complains that one of the tires is flat (probably the spare), even though the spare tire is properly-inflated. Once it happens, the car has to be rebooted in order to get rid of the warning, which always happens within five minutes of starting the car.
Needless to say, other that the above, it's a blast to drive.
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So... Took my car into a tire shop (tire pros) to get a screw pulled out of my front left tire... And after they finish the job - the guy comes up to me and says "your front brakes don't have much life left." I said, "I know I'm planning to change them in the next couple of weeks"...
He then said, "well I think your sensor just went off, when I pulled the car around.." I said "okay", got in the car and drove off - no brake light what so ever.
Anyways, A few hours later when pulling my car around the corner on the way home - I noticed that I am all of the sudden getting a random scraping sound from the front-right rotor anytime I turn the well all the way to the left at slow speeds...
I'm not too worried about it - just want to make sure these guys aren't trying to sabotage my car! The only thing that kills me, is that I didn't have the sound before and no all of the sudden I do? I'm assuming they somehow slightly moved the pad, causing it to somehow squeal - I'm just not exactly sure what they did...
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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My '99 Olds Intrigue was running rough & short on power. Autozone read a trouble code "random misfiring" (PM3000 I think it was). As suggested, I changed the plugs/wires and checked resistance on all three coils with no luck. Here's the real spooky thing: while driving down the street a couple days ago, the pipe between the catalytic converter & muffler separated, scaring me and sending all the children getting off the school bus scrambling for cover. There was no noise or odor prior to the 'drop out' - is there any chance that the one problems (a catalytic malfunction, or small leak in the area for instance) could be related to the misfiring? A mechanic - before the pipe plummeted - had suggested it might be an injector problem or the intake manifold but I figured that an injector problem would trigger a code.
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I have a 2013 Avalon hybrid that is almost 1 yr old.
I have recently notice a single "pop" noise that seems to be coming from the rear when I turn right with a sharp turn.
I have looked in the trunk and under the vehicle but I cannot find where it is coming from.
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2000 3.5L
On a hard left high speed turn, it vibrates under load. Also while under throttle when making a second gear left hand turn.
Noise will come and go when going over dips at high speeds under load. I have already replaced the left Half shaft.
I am a master mechanic and have had success with changing a half shaft on a similar situation. Looking for other possibilities before I throw another half shaft at it.
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1998 olds intrigue, 3800, auto, 4 wheel disc. Spongy breaks (ABS/Trac/Check engine/service engine soon). Friend brought her 'new' car over the weekend complaining about breaks feeling spongy.
First looked at the car and noticed the driver front passenger rear rotors had a lot of rust. They were also cool to the touch, odd after a 20 mile trip. The driver rear speed sensor has been repaired, and was unplugged.
The breaks are not working on the passenger rear, driver left. There is not any pressure at all at the calipers, and the rusty rotors show this.
Put the car on jack stands and with breaks depressed, the driver front/passenger rear wheels spun freely.
checked break lines/fluid, no obvious leaks.
I tried bleeding from the valve assembly attached to the master cylinder, and got only fluid out of the one bleeder, but not the other one. Could this be the master cylinder causing this, or the other assembly?
[URL]...
The bleeder on the right had nothing, the bleeder on the left that had fluid/pressure.
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Yesterday after I left work, i started the car and left like i always do. It wasn't crazy cold or anything, car was sitting there all day while at work, but was around 50 degrees. Anyways, i got about 2 blocks and came to a light to take a right, when i stopped at the light the car just died!?!?! I was like WTF...all the lights were lit up on the dash, i tried to start it, nada. I then put it in Park, and tried and it started right up. Got home no problems, went out after work, no problems, got to work no problems?!?!?!? Just curious, gonna call them today as i am due for an oil change...
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I have a ford focus (2004) 4cyl 2.0 L. One day, the car would stall only moments after the engine would turn. It would just shut as if fuel was ceased. I could however rev the engine and keep it running if I had my foot on the gas. After awhile, I tried again and it worked! Everything was normal, then it stalled after trying to start if up again. So this was intermittent at the time.
So, I swapped my fuel pump relay with the a/c one- and it fired right up! I'm thinking great, its just the relay and not the actual fuel pump. So went to the parts store, got a relay, and (me being me) wanted the new relay in the original fuel pump relay plug in the fuse box. As I was taking it out, a really really small piece of plastic chipped off of the plastic cover of the relay, and fell in one of the slots where you put the relay. How in the world?? I couldn't get it out. So I ended up putting the relay in anyway, and my car has the same problem originally (stalls), but now I have these check engine codes: p0460 and p0463
I also noticed, its running really rough when I hold the gas now. Could the plastic piece that fell into the relay be causing a strange short from my fuse box? Or, could it be my fuel pump this whole time? If its messed up because the plastic, Is finding a fuse box at a junkyard and replacing it feasible?
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