Intrigue :: Low Oil Light Came On And Stayed On Shortly After Starting The Car
Apr 4, 2012
1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
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2001 Prius with 230,000 miles, replacement hybrid battery in January 2009 at 197,000 miles has recently been having mutliple electronic problems. Current status is:
o Disconnect the 12 v battery for one or two days.
o Re-connect the 12 v battery.
o Turn key and the ICE starts up and runs normally for about 20 seconds, but all warning lights are on: Red Triangle, PS, ! Car.
o ICE begins to shudder and shake as if it is attempting to engage something that won't turn.
o After about 15-20 seconds of shudder/shake the ICE dies and nothing will happen until I start over at disconnect of 12v battery.
I am guessing that the ICE is trying to engage the motor/generator that recharges the main battery, but it is stuck. Is that what is called "the inverter"?
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Our 2007 Camry dashboard lights up like as it should (regardless of lighting conditions) then after starting the engine or turning the key to the ON position, it dims to total darkness in about 3 seconds. I need this fixed tonight otherwise my wife will take my Tundra to work.
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Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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2001 Intrigue 3.3 L v6
Due to the cold weather, seems the battery could not start the car. I removed the battery to trickle charge it overnight in the house, and hooked it back up in the morning. It seemed to have sufficient charge to power the starter motor, but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a whirring sound whenever the key was turned, and the sound stopped whenever the key was turned off.
I am suspecting that the starter motor somehow is not engaging with the engine flywheel?
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My wife's Intrigue has had a hard starting/rough idle/rough start issue for a little bit now. On a hunch this weekend I decided to clean out her throttle body. Turns out it was more full of soot than a chimney in February. Nasty black carbon buildup. Took a toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner and scrubbed it out best I could. Car runs great now, very smooth and responsive. Gas pedal use to stick, even fixed that. So I'm a hero, until we realize that her car is still starting hard. Turn the key and the engine turns over no problem, starter sounds good. Once the engine is running it purrs like a kitten. But sometimes you have to crank it for several seconds before it fires up.
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I have an 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue. I started having a problem about a year back where when I first start the engine, if there is 1/4 tank or less left in the gas tank, the gauge will at first show the proper level. However, after driving for a few minutes the gauge will creep up to anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4 fill. I know that the original reading of 1/4 or less is the correct one because of the amount of gas needed to fill the tank. This problem is especially problematic when the tank is almost empty.
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I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
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I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
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2003 gti 1.8t. I'm having a problem with this engine code, it keeps coming back and when the CEL comes on the ASR light follows shortly and will then come on after every start up.
For the p0171 I've replaced:
Crankcase vent hose.
Y split running to the pcv
MAF
Coil packs
Spark plugs
Fuel pump
I also have done a seafoam treatment through tbe intake and ran a bottle (twice) of injector cleaners through the gas tank.
Nothing has fixed the code. I found cracks in the brake Booster vac line and had the line replaced (brake light would flash under boost, doesn't anymore). Can't find any other leaks except for maybe the secondary air pump (which I haven't replaced yet).
The OBD2 monitors all run. the EVAP and catalytic monitor won't click over to ready. I have a new pcv and a fuel filter coming in the mail in another vain attempt to fix the issue.
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My exhaust system light came on today shortly after re-fueling. I called the dealer and the service advisor suggested that I open the gas cap and re-close it making sure that it clicks. If that is the problem he said the light should go off in a few key cycles. There is no warning in the MFI. In the manual it says that there is an MFI warning about the fuel cap that says "CHECK FUEL CAP" and that the message will go away in about 10 minutes after you click the gas cap and restart the vehicle. I do not have anything in the MFI and it seems to be running just fine. (V-8)
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Last night I changed out my alternator and charged the batteries on my Excursion. When I went to start it up the ABS light stayed on. I scanned for codes but no luck there.
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My intrigue security light has come on and its solid... Some say I can't drive it any longer because it will stop on me and the fuel won't come thru" !!
1) Is it my (BCM) I have never had this light to come on so this is new to me..
2)What exactly is this ,
3)and what is it used for.??
4)Will I be locked out ??
5)How long before it won't start up??
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So today I was playing around with a Honda civic from light to light with my 2012 v6 AWD Santa fe. After lighting the tires up on the first light I decided to hit the AWD lock switch.
Second stop light was great, my suv launched and before I knew it I was doing 100km/h. Only problem is my AWD light stayed on and didn't disengage? Is this normal?... I could be wrong but I think my check engine light flashed but I'm not 100% on that.
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My AC amazingly still works, but it does seem to have a small leak - I have to recharge it every few years. This time I put some stop leak in it. My problem is that it will sometimes randomly turn off. Apparently the compressor kicks off. Most of the time it works fine, just occasionally I will see the green light for the AC disappear, and then air stops getting cold. Sometimes the light will turn back on again on its own.
I did a pressure test and came up with some odd results. When I charged it I loaded it to around 25 psi, as the manual says, but I noticed that when the car is off, the reading is around 60 psi (the normal value should be about 50). Is that a problem? Also, do I need to add more AC oil, ever, unless the AC is disassembled? I was never fully sure about that from what the manual said.
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Yesterday morning, when starting my 2010 Prius, the red BRAKE light stayed on, and also the yellow Traction Control light and yellow ABS light. The brakes seemed less than usual. Dealer says the left rear caliper froze up, causing the ABS sensor to melt, causing the system to go into fail-safe mode (no regenerative braking).
I have done no hard braking, the car is currently getting over 50 mpg, and has only 57,368 miles on it. I checked the brake fluid level, it looks fine. Also shut down and restarted several times, no change, lights still on.
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I had the oil changed in my 2009 Prius but the "change oil" light stayed lit. Rather than taking it back in to the Jiffy Lube, I found instructions on this site for resetting the light (hold down odometer button while pressing on button twice, etc.) and the display did what it was supposed to--the numbers were replaced with dashes and it seemed like the system reset. But the oil light remained on. I tried it several times to no avail.
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This morning I went out to warm my car up for a few minutes because it has been so cold and when I started it the red triangle warning light stayed on and the consumption screen said "problem" across the top with a little icon in the upper left hand corner that looked similar to a high beam headlight indicator. I turned the car off and started it again wondering if it would clear which it did not. I left it running and went inside to get my child and by the time I came out it had cleared itself.
In typing this I recall that I thought it stayed on a little longer than normal the other day and just ignored it thinking it was still in lamp test mode on initial start up.
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I recently had my tpms light turn on when I started my car in the morning. It blinked for about a minute and then stayed on. After checking my tire pressure and seeing they were all normal, I checked online and found that when the tpms light acts like it is for me, it means there is a malfunction somewhere, so rather than deal with trying to fix it, I went into vagcom to turn it off. I went to the proper byte/box for tpms and unchecked it. But the light is still on...
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I have 2006 Honda civic my SRS indicator light came on and stayed on about a week and a half ago, Today while driving the car i turned the steering wheel and the horn went on by itself and even stayed on for a minute. Later the volume on the radio went off when i turned the steering wheel and then the cruise control light came on and stayed on, i can't' turn it off. The horn no longer works.
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