Intrigue :: A/C Fan Blower Motor Does Not Directly Respond To Dashboard Speed Control
Jul 19, 2012
I have a 99 Olds Intrigue GLS. Going on 163k miles. She has been pretty good with the common fixes for this model. I decided to replace my upper and lower Coolant Hoses before I took a long trip. Everything went OK until I tried to use my AC later that day.
During my Coolant change out I did indeed start the car multiple times and eventually I disconnected the battery to reach a hose.
Now, when I turn on the AC, the Blower motor does not directly respond to my dash board speed control. The little bars indicating higher speed changes up and down as normal, but the blower doesn't change with it. Also, I can SOMETIMES get it to change speeds by turning the speed all the way up then back down a few clicks etc...Currently, when I turn on the car the AC does kick in under the hood, but the blower stays off.
Something fishy going on. I decided to disconnect the battery again and see if anything "reset". No Luck. I think it coincidental that it happened during my Coolant change out...
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I have an '02 F150 XL. 200k miles. My a/c blows cold, and I have every fan speed, but it just doesn't blow very hard. I replaced the blower motor thinking that would work, but that did nothing. I've been told to clean the evaporator core, but I don't know where that is. How to do that, as well as any other part causing the problem.
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I have a 2005 Eddie Bauer 4X4 with the 6.0 and Automatic Temperature Control. I need a new blower motor control module, and have been confused by what I have been able to find online. What is the full Motorcraft part number, or other information so I can get one.
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Air Conditioner Blower Motor on any speed, lets say high. Running fine while driving. Come to a stop at idle or shift to N or P. A few seconds later the blower begins to vary its speed in pulsating rhythm in what would seem to be in cadence with what would be a rough or varying idle. Where to start? Is it the relay?
2002 BMW 330ci Convertible
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I have google it looked all over was told it was under the hood next to the fan even shown a photo when I went under the hood right were the resistor was in the photo there was a long black box about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. looked nothing like the photo.
So I went back on line and read that its above the passengers feet you take a few screws off after you take the glove box off and it should be there. Well after taking 8 screws off I find nothing but a coil behind there. Nothing that looked like a resistor.
2006 f350 diesel?
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I bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
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My blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
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I recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
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I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 AWD with climate control. All other trucks this year I've only seen with manual HVAC controls. My blower motor is constantly running anytime the key is turned on. It feels like it is blowing 3/4 strong all the time and I can turn it up, what feels like one setting higher. Even if the climate control is turned off it keeps blowing. I can control the temp and AC and defroster, I just cannot control the actual airflow pressure from the vents. On an older car this seems like a resistor issue. Is this a common issue? If so, what can I do to try to rectify this?
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My 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
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Have a 2004 F-250 and blower motor speed 3 is not working..replaced resistor pack with Motorcraft part and everything works except position 3 ....
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Currently My AC / Heat blower motor operates but, speed 1 and 2 are the same, 3 and 4 are fine. I replaced the blower rheostat that is located on the firewall, but still no difference in fan speed.. A few years ago the blower only operated on Hi and the rheostat was the problem then.
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I have and 07 F250 and the #2 speed for the blower motor don't work (hasn't since I bought it) I read that the most common cause of this is the resistor under the hood on the firewall so I replaced that and still no 2nd speed??? Where I look next? Motor itself maybe?
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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After 56k miles on my 2010 Type II, I suddenly started hearing a constants rattle sound that seemed to be located in the dashboard directly in front of the steering wheel. I got onto Prius Chat and researched every possible resolution, but not seemed to work UNTIL.... I saw someone had jokingly suggested squirting some WD-40 between the windshield and the windshield cowl. So, having nothing to loose, I gave that a try and... the rattle is gone! I can't explain it, but all I can tell you is my car is quiet again.
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I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT and I get a whining noise that is directly proportional to road speed when I drive. The noise is ONLY heard when the car is moving and your foot is on the gas. The second you lift your foot to coast the whining stops. If you are stopped, no whine. If you change gears, the frequency of the whine doesn't change. Turning the wheel left/right doesn't change anything. If it sounds like anything I've heard, it sounds like a dry differential. I've checked the front diff fluid level (the whine comes from the front) and the fluid level is full.
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Was on my way to get an oil change at my buddies shop. Started hearing a clicking sound. My climate controls no longer will respond. the Auto button is lit up but I can't turn the air off. I get hot air from the vents. When the clicking does stop the system goes back to working order. My friend checked it out and says the clicking is from the blend door motor.
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Heating comes up very well although air flow at the feet isn't very high but adequate. However, I notice once the cabin is warmed and it reverts to keeping it at the set temperature. I never sense it coming back on to heat again and air output feels cool.
The following doesn't reactive it into the typical heat output as when I get into a cold vehicle.
- going out to fill up for gas with doors opening etc with engine off then leaving is still a very cool output and no further warming appears to take place
- loading shopping from purchases does not seem too cool the sensor enough while engine is still running
- even while driving setting it another .5C higher does not make a difference once its cycle off the main heat mode.
Where is the SF sensor located for the internal system and is this slow response normal. How much of a drop in temperature does it need to pump at lease warm air. I'll have to experiment further I guess and adjust full degree increments until I get a response. I am comfortable most of the time but I don't like cool air blowing at me through the vents in the winter.
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I recently had my power window motor replaced, and my A/C charged, after that my cruise control started going off by its self, when I turned on the turn signal or opened the window, it only happens when the body is warm, not the engine. I had someone say, some of these vehicles have been found to have been built with a pinched wire (or wire harness) where the sunshade pivot arms go through, but I have had this car almost 2 years and it never did this till this work was done on it. What can I check for? It's a 2001 Olds Intrique.
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Running the A/C for 20-30, I notice the fan not blowing at all even setting the speed to high. I hear something blocking the duct work. I stopped for lunch and when I came back I notice water still pouring out from the A/C
Huge puddle, almost cover half the car. Checked the fluid and confirm it was water. Where is the drain and what can I do?
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My '04 Phaeton was towed Nov. 24 - completely dead, blower motor fan would not turn off...even powered OFF, with key out of the ignition! Both batteries were then drained, had to be replaced to diagnose...
Ended up being blower motor fan resistor. The tech said the ESP/ESC (?) light was "now on" where it was NOT on before all this. He did not run a diagnostics, not sure why. And not sure why service manager didn't mention it before I paid and checked out. :/
But NOW the car is doing some funky things.... upon start-up, whether pulling out in drive or backing out in reverse, the brakes (or SOMETHING ??) seem to be erratically grabbing, there is an awful grinding/scraping noise, the car jerks and stutters and hops, just for a few seconds, then something seems to "give"/"release" and the grinding and scraping and jumping stops and I roll on like normal. BUT the ESP light (that is now CONSTANTLY on), BLINKS/FLASHES when this grinding and stutter-stepping happens. It sounds awful, it feels awful, and it's making me nervous. Of course I contacted VW service immediately, and they're saying I can bring it back in to run diagnostics.
I know for a fact the car was completely dead, NOTHING worked, as both batteries were "fired" according to VW.....so nothing between the car dying and the batteries and blower motor being fixed transpired -- except the towing. And my guess is the had to DRAG it onto the flatbed in PARK b/c it would not take a charge at all to put in NEUTRAL.
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