Intrigue :: 3.5 Engine Knock Coming From Oil Pan And Gets Louder When Fully Warmed Up
Nov 20, 2012
3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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Over the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
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About a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
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With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
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I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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The car is a 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine.
The problem is: about once a month the gas pedal won't go down when trying to move forward after the car has come to a full stop. Feels like I'm stepping on a rock when I step on the pedal. Then I tap on the pedal with my foot a few times and the pedal will go down smoothly, car accelerates and everything feels normal until it happens again.
Where to look for the interference if that is what it is? Also,I tried to cause this hard pedal to happen & have been unable to do so.
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Have a heavy steering feel on their 2010's with the 215 45/17 tires? It seems much heavier than previous Prius's and also have noticed that mine when it is really cold the steering wheel gets a little twitchy until it is fully warmed up.
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When car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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I read a similar post but no resolution. My '05 Equinox starts fine most of the time, but when I make a quick stop before its fully warmed up I have to slightly depress the accelerator to get it to start. Now I know with fuel injection this should't be happening but its been the case almost since the day I bought it. GM changed out the software in the computer and that seemed to work for a while, at least long enough for the warranty to end. It doesn't bother me but my wife wants the car now. What's up?
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I had a friend check out a noise coming from my engine, and he said he thought it was an "idle pulley", and another friend say it sounds like my injectors. Its kind of a tinny sound and it gets louder as my RPM's go up. I dont know where to begin for diagnosis, but I heard it on a different Jetta about a week ago.
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I cant recall if these sounds were there when i first bought the car, probably because i have the radio on most times. I think the buzzing sounds were present in the last month at least.
After i start up my car and even after idling for a while, i hear a buzzing sound coming from the engine. It gets louder when I accelerate. When I let go of the gas, the buzzing sound lags for a few seconds and then quiets down a little bit, but still can hear it in the background.
I lifted the hood up to listen more closely. I am not totally sure, but i think i can also hear a faint hissing sound ( sounds like leaking air?). I cant pinpoint where it is, but its around the engine.
I also notice that when I am idle, the MPG number in the dashboard is dropping fairly quickly. Like 0.1 mpg every 20 seconds. This is new and started today. I last drove it 4 days ago and didn't notice it happening then and i watch the mpg very closely every time i drive. Could there possibly be some gas leak?
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My friend has tortured my R32 which he was supposed to buy. I had the motor replaced while i was gone as he blew it , again , dumb. I have been driving it and it has a terrible whine in the tranny I brought it to my mechanic and we took a sample to find metal shaving in my tranny.
He says the tranny is gone but I am lost on how it shifts perfect except the whine. It does this louder in the lower gears and has a slight knock at idle and disappears when I press the clutch in.
I bought a used tranny already to put in. I also if this is the case and the tranny needs replacing I was told to also do the clutch , should I go stock to save money or go with a different clutch and possibly a LW Flywheel , is it really a drastic power difference?
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I just bought this truck yesterday. During the test drive and everything it seemed all fine. After all the paperwork and the truck was actually mine. I noticed once it is all warmed up it seems to have a slight knock/tick? and a slight miss to it. I shot a couple videos, one up underneath where it sounds like most of the noise is coming from. Could it be an exhaust leak? Or is it something internal? Like the Cam Phasers, or a rod or something!
Here is a video around the exhaust area.
Here is up underneath the truck.
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My F150 exhaust seems rather quiet when I first start it up, but after it gets warmed up good, the exhaust is much louder (which I like). I started wondering if I had a crack up front that widened out when it got hot, so looked under it when I got home today with it hot and still idling, but didn't see any cracks. Also I did not hear any noise like a leak. All sound was coming from the side exit pipe. So... what is the phenomenon that would cause this?
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I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla, with about 175,000 miles, and recently the heating system has been acting up. About three weeks ago the heat started to be slow coming, even when the engine was warm, but after a bit of driving it would kick in. The blower would work the whole time, but it would blow cold, instead of hot. However, no even that amount of heat has subsided, and the blower only blows cold air. On top of that, within the last week or so the engine has begun to almost overheat early in driving, but settles down a bit after driving a few miles. What might be happening?
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bought my car in 2008 with 19k already on it certified used. fast forward to 2012 and 102,000 miles on it engine has a knock coming from the engine block. I purchased a warranty 7/100,000 mile. Did oil changes myself every 5k full synthetic. when the car developed a knock i noticed the engine oil was scary low. Since i got my car from the time i got it at 19k and i bought the 7/100,000 mile warranty on top of that.
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