I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
View 4 RepliesOk so the fuel gauge says empty and the low fuel light stays on even though the tank is full. I'm assuming its either the gauges or the sending unit. If it is the sending unit where is it located on this car?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
View 2 RepliesOn my 2000 toyota celica I have no dash lights Including no fuel gauge level indicators. I can not find any bad fuses unless there is another hidden fuse box somewhere...
View 4 RepliesI was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
View 2 RepliesRecently my car had a stroke.... the fuel gauge (analog) stays on zero (digital-miles remaining in tank) says ---- even though i just put gas in, the ac isnt working the outside temp reads -- celsius when it should say something and fahrenheit, driver side switches only puts down driver side window, i can't move the side mirrors the controls are unresponsive. the radio won't turn off on its own when i turn the car off or start on its own when i turn the car on. the car is driving fine no change in how it responds. the only thing wrong is 95% of all the electronics.
View 4 RepliesI just noticed the oil pressure gauge on this Pontiac TS GT stays in the red zone at idle and climbs a little out of it at 2000 rpm and higher (never over the first unit). There's no other warning light or error in the dashboard - just the scary oil pressure gauge.
We brought this car home for repairs after a 600 km trip (370 miles) without any issues in mountain roads or hot weather. Engine temperature was well below the first quarter mark, acceleration was great and there was no strange sounds whatsoever...
When first started cold engine has no lifter or tapping noise. What would be the most obvious sign of oil starvation/low pressure on this engine?
Is there any way to confirm it beside the dash gauge? With this 3.8 engine what would be the most probable cause for this:
1. defective oil pressure sensor
2. failed oil pump
3. worn crankshaft bearings
4. worn camshaft bearings or other cause
I have a 2001 prius. It has around 105k miles on it. i bought it when it had 86k. I've had 0 issues with the car other than replacing the 12v battery in the trunk and its always run like a champ. Today though, i went to start the car and it started up as normal. I left the keys in the car for a second to get out and talk to my wife.
When i happened to look in through the window though i saw that the cars fuel gauge was all of a sudden flashing. The entire bar. (when i started it originally it had 5 bars of fuel) I got back in the car to investigate and noticed that the engine had turned off. All the power was still on with no triangle of death/turtle or anything else. only the flashing fuel gauge was on. I tried restarting it multiple times to no avail. The power will come on fine, and the dash will appear as normal. The motor just will not start.
I thought it might be fuel so i went and added a gallon just in case, but still no luck. Problem usually have lights that come on or the triangle of death.
My fuel guage stopped working, it just stays on empty, no sign of moving when the ignition is turned on and off. What the voltages should be or have a good system for problem solving this to locate where the problem is.
View 4 RepliesMy 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
View 106 RepliesSo right now I'm not able to start my Toyota's engine. I checked multiple screens and found several weird symptoms that I never saw before.
1. When attempting to turn the engine on, the square light that appear over the selected D, N, P positions etc does not appear at all and the 'Ready' light never appears. When putting the car into the Parked mode the square does not appear over the 'P' on the dashboard or any of the other modes and Ready light does not display.
2 . On the dashboard the fuel gauge is blinking continuously. Its showing full bars while blinking even though I have about 3 cars worth of gas in the car.
3. On the computer screen when I go to the Energy menu (The screen that shows the Battery life and the Motor and Engine working together) The battery life is showing as completely empty. But the battery should be working considering the computer screen even turns on. Radio also works.
4. The OBD II scanner does not get a reading. The scanner powers on when plugged into the car, but a "Linking Error" occurs when attempting to read any error codes.
5. On the same computer screen where the Energy menu is displayed, the Temperature gauge is showing an "E" instead of an actual temperature.
6. On the outside of the car I hear a very faint sound that I don't recognize. It could be nothing but its not a sound I ever heard before.
Also NO WARNING LIGHTS are appearing on the dashboard. Which makes sense considering the car engine is not turned on to show anything. I don't know where this issue is coming from?
Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
I have a 95 Chevy astrology van that I've owned for about a year. On occasion (about once a month) when I start it, the battery gauge stays in the red and all the lights are dim. After driving a bit I can stop the van and restart it, and the battery gauge normally shoots up to normal, and lights are all bright again. Don't have any problems outside of that, until now. For the last 4 day, my battery gauge has refused to pop out of the red, and lights are always dim. I can drive for a couple hundred miles and nothing changes. Last night, as I left work, it ran like it has been with low battery and then just died. There is no clicking, no "whirring" sound the starter normally makes, the battery just died. I'm on a very small budget and can't afford a shop, or both battery and alternator. What are your thoughts on this problem and where should I invest my money? As a side note, battery cables and posts are cleaned off, and are bolted securely. Nothing loose and no corrosion.
View 17 RepliesI just put in a new starting battery, and it still won't start. When I turn the key to start, the dash just goes dark. It had been sitting for about three months.
2001 Prius
I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
I have 1998 Plymouth neon. It does this more in the hot month than the cold month but I drive down the road and the dash cluster will go out no tach, speed, no gauge, mileage will not work but all dash light, signal light, high beam all will work.
It seems that when it cools off some, some time a minute sometimes a few minutes when it comes on the seat belt and airbag light come on or you can turn off the key for a few seconds and it will come on, bums will not make it go out or come back on.
What can it be?
After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
I got this 1981 ford fairmont wagon for free. From this elderly lady it was her husband.he bought used in 1983 it had 73,000 on it Iook like it been kept in garage real clean looking the mileage now on it is 34,154. I am guessing she has over 200,000 on her.The problem I am having is the fuel gauge won't move.is there a fuse for it or do you think the sender is bad. I can not find a sender any where...
View 2 RepliesAfter spilling coffee down emergency brake lever the airbag light intermittently stays on. OBD showed no codes.
Found a couple of recalls that deal with airbag problems. One messed with the wiring harness under neath both front seats. The old wires hung down to low. The 2nd added a cover to not allow liquid to get on the connector/airbag electronics. The airbag electronics connector is directly below the emergency handbrake lever.
My nephews 2002 had the carpet extended over the connector/airbag electronics and that was suppose to protect the connector from getting wet.
Found sticky coffee on connector/airbag electronics.
Used screw driver to pry up on console tray. Then removed 3 screws on both side of console. Disconnected battery then used contact cleaner on connector and electronic module. Took plastic lid from 42oz round container of oatmeal and used double side tape to secure over connector/electronic module.
Airbag light is off and connector/airbag electronics has better protection from spills.
Drove to work had no issues, went to leave & noticed that the dash lights didn't light as normal when I turned the key over, then tried to start but it just cranked, checked the fuses all good under the dash & hood.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1984 jayco mini 25 with a 7.5(460)in it. It has been in storage for the past 3 years and has not been started. It turns over and I do get spark. The problem is fuel. I am getting power when I jump the oil pressure switch and ground at the wires on the frame rail that go back to the tanks. My gauge does not work on either my front or rear so at first I thought it just may be as simple as a bad ground since the ground is used for fuel level as well as the pump but I wasnt that lucky.The tank switch is working, I can hear it. What are the odds of both fuel pumps being bad?
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