Intrigue :: 2001 V6 Not Starting Due To Cold Weather
Nov 30, 2013
2001 Intrigue 3.3 L v6
Due to the cold weather, seems the battery could not start the car. I removed the battery to trickle charge it overnight in the house, and hooked it back up in the morning. It seemed to have sufficient charge to power the starter motor, but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a whirring sound whenever the key was turned, and the sound stopped whenever the key was turned off.
I am suspecting that the starter motor somehow is not engaging with the engine flywheel?
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My Chevy Cobalt will not start in cold weather. I don't think bad battery is the case here because it's started in warmer temperatures. What could be wrong??
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2004 Passat 1.8t that is intermittently not starting. The problem only happens when the car is cold. When I turn the key, the car cranks just fine but will not start. All of the dash lights light up and I had the battery tested and it is fine. Tonight it took about 5 minutes of repeated cranking and waiting before the car started.
After a 15-minute trip home and it had a chance to warm up, the car starts just fine. I've taken it to my mechanic but they haven't been able to replicate the problem. I'm thinking about leaving it overnight just so they'll be able to replicate it.
Not sure if it could be related, but I just had a coil replaced a few weeks ago (the coil was <1 year old). The plugs are only 3 months old.
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So I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
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My 2006 Ford Fusion SE V6 has trouble starting in cold weather. Once it starts, it's fine throughout the day, but once it sits a long time, like overnight, it has trouble starting in the morning. If it had a carburetor, I'd say the choke wasn't working. The dealership couldn't figure it out a few years back. I even tried a new battery and that didn't work. Is there a sensor that detects cold weather and increases fuel flow or chokes off air flow for richer starting mixture that could be failing?
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Lately, I've noticed that my car starts fine in cold weather. But, once I put the car into drive or reverse, it stalls. Also, once I start the car let my foot on gas for few min, and then put into drive or reverse, it drives fine.
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How to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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Rough shifts like my 99 GLS (93k mi.) suffers from. Why this would happen only in warm weather and stop and go driving and not when the outside temp is less than 60 degrees?
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I have a Chrysler Neon 2001 and due to the recent cold weather in Montreal i had issues starting it. The battery seems to be functioning properly but when i try to start it, there wont be any sound what so ever, also i found a broken plastic pipe which im not sure what its there for ( I have uploaded a photo of it).
Link to picture : [URL] ....
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Truck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and since the colder weather set in it is tacking below 1 and 'jumping' when idle. When accelerating and/or once the heat gauge has reach midway, the car is fine. I added a bottle of gas additive to the tank 3 weeks back, but the problem persists. The engine light is on but no code is registering.
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Have a 2001 F150 FX4x4 and since the weather changed and started having days below 40 the truck has started running rough for about the first 15-20 miles. When you first start it starts like normal for first 3-5 min and then it starts loping real bad like it has a cam in it!
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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My wife's Intrigue has had a hard starting/rough idle/rough start issue for a little bit now. On a hunch this weekend I decided to clean out her throttle body. Turns out it was more full of soot than a chimney in February. Nasty black carbon buildup. Took a toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner and scrubbed it out best I could. Car runs great now, very smooth and responsive. Gas pedal use to stick, even fixed that. So I'm a hero, until we realize that her car is still starting hard. Turn the key and the engine turns over no problem, starter sounds good. Once the engine is running it purrs like a kitten. But sometimes you have to crank it for several seconds before it fires up.
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1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
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I have an 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue. I started having a problem about a year back where when I first start the engine, if there is 1/4 tank or less left in the gas tank, the gauge will at first show the proper level. However, after driving for a few minutes the gauge will creep up to anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4 fill. I know that the original reading of 1/4 or less is the correct one because of the amount of gas needed to fill the tank. This problem is especially problematic when the tank is almost empty.
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I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
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I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
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My AC amazingly still works, but it does seem to have a small leak - I have to recharge it every few years. This time I put some stop leak in it. My problem is that it will sometimes randomly turn off. Apparently the compressor kicks off. Most of the time it works fine, just occasionally I will see the green light for the AC disappear, and then air stops getting cold. Sometimes the light will turn back on again on its own.
I did a pressure test and came up with some odd results. When I charged it I loaded it to around 25 psi, as the manual says, but I noticed that when the car is off, the reading is around 60 psi (the normal value should be about 50). Is that a problem? Also, do I need to add more AC oil, ever, unless the AC is disassembled? I was never fully sure about that from what the manual said.
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