Intrigue :: 2001 Car Started Just Shutting Off While On The Road
Dec 17, 2014
Last Thursday my car started just shutting off on me while on the road. I'll put it on neutral and start it back up just fine and it'll continue to drive. The next day it started fine again until it warmed up and I turn it off. So when I try to turn it back on it stalled for a while and then it turned on. This continued until last Monday when it just finally died on me and had to get it towed home.
I figured my crankshaft sensor was bad so I replaced it with a bad battery I found out I had. I also replaced the fuel filter, air filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, spark plugs, ignition coil packs, air mass flow sensor and still nothing. It cranks now but I'm not sure if I am getting enough fuel or spark for it to run. I'm thinking its the fuel pressure regulator or ignition module at this point but I'm getting tired of guessing, especially spending money.
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I have a 2000 oldmobile Intrique, with the 3.5L northstar engine. While driving down the road the car will hesitate while the rpm's will decrese for a second and go back to where it was before, the speed odometer will jump up and go back down. the service will flash on and off. The car almost acts like it dies for a second but keeps on going. I have the codes checked and their are no codes in the computer.
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2003 Pontiac Vibe, 5 speed manual, 70K miles. Recently the cruise control started shutting itself off; if I keep turning it on/off it will hold speed again for awhile, but a few mins later the same problem reappears. Some days the CC works just fine; other days it flickers on/off. The cruise light starts flickering too when this happens, but doesn't remain off. I am not touching the clutch, brake, gas.Seems unrelated to weather or road conditions.
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how hard is it to install a bcm in a 01 Oldsmobile Intrigue, and what all will it take care of in a car? I know its a sm computer that does alot of operations for a car,but would that cover everything with the security light on??
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2001 Intrigue 3.3 L v6
Due to the cold weather, seems the battery could not start the car. I removed the battery to trickle charge it overnight in the house, and hooked it back up in the morning. It seemed to have sufficient charge to power the starter motor, but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a whirring sound whenever the key was turned, and the sound stopped whenever the key was turned off.
I am suspecting that the starter motor somehow is not engaging with the engine flywheel?
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My intrigue security light has come on and its solid... Some say I can't drive it any longer because it will stop on me and the fuel won't come thru" !!
1) Is it my (BCM) I have never had this light to come on so this is new to me..
2)What exactly is this ,
3)and what is it used for.??
4)Will I be locked out ??
5)How long before it won't start up??
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I recently had my power window motor replaced, and my A/C charged, after that my cruise control started going off by its self, when I turned on the turn signal or opened the window, it only happens when the body is warm, not the engine. I had someone say, some of these vehicles have been found to have been built with a pinched wire (or wire harness) where the sunshade pivot arms go through, but I have had this car almost 2 years and it never did this till this work was done on it. What can I check for? It's a 2001 Olds Intrique.
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I was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
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my old lady has a 2001 olds intrigue with the 3.5L in it. Sunday evening we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Coolant Temp Sensor. Monday she was on her way back to Iowa and the tempature gauge spiked up to the Hot area. I looked it over and could not find anything wrong. I sent her on her way and she made it about a mile before it did it again. The car will spike up to the hot area but the motor shows no signs of over heating. I checked the temps with a heat gun while the car is idling and read out Thermostat housing-160, Rad-80, Rad hose-130, and coolant 170. I than ran the car up so it shows on the gauge its hot and than checked again, it than reads Thermostat housing-172, Rad-100, Rad hose-134, and coolant 184. If I am running it at 1500 rpms it will spike up but once i take it up to 2500 rpms it drops back down to normal on the gauge. I am lost for what it could be.
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I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
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Trying to figure out if she jumped timing or maybe PCM went out. Car started dying going up hills then stalled out on level road. Found coil pack for #3 and #6 bad and replaced it. Other's arced ok so I left them alone. Didn't work for starting it so I checked the fuel pressure and got 37psi with key on and engine off.What would cause it not to even try to hit? Considering maybe it's jumped timing or the PCM is going out.
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I have toyota avalon 2001 xls. 3 years ago I had problem with fuel injector and mechanic change it, since than I had problem with stalling car on and off. When ever it is hot or cold or sometime pulling out from drive way. It starts good, just doesn't keep idling. And as I take of foot from gas it stalls. In order to get going I have to use both foot tachnic. One on gas one on brake, for stopping I use brake and keep pressing gas padle, so it doesn't stall. After 2-3 minutes it works fine until next time car sets somewhere for few hours.I did two three times fuel system flush. Change all spark plugs.
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From the time I start the car till I shut her down I hear this loud screech. I thought belts but they are not the cause! 2001 elantra 5 speed transmission ...
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I have a problem with my 2002 Prius when I was driving down the highway the master warning light came on with a warning display screen appearing saying that there is a problem in the Hybrid System and then the car went into shut down mode. I had it towed to the dealer for diagnosis and an estimate. The codes read were P3000, P3004, P3125, and P3009 they did not tell me the sub-codes read. Their diagnosis was the inverter needed to be replaced. The Main battery on this car had been replacing at 140,000 and there has not been a problem since the car has been well taken care of throughout its life. Being new to working on hybrids but not cars and electronics I figured I could replace it cheaper than the dealer price of $4200. With the age of the car and high miles 175,000 I figured it would not be worth the new part price so I got a guaranteed used inverter. After replacing the inverter I still got the same problem with no change.
So I decided I would have to diagnose it myself. The car starts and runs fine and starts charging the battery right away as normal but if try to but it in reverse or drive it fails so that means the short would have to be in the transaxle. I decided to test MG1 and MG2 for shorts and I figured I would need to use a megger to do this but I did not all three winding on MG2 test shorted to ground on the 200-ohm scale on a regular ohm meter. Then after closer inspection of MG2 cables, you can see a coating of corrosion running up all three cables. So the question I have is this corrosion on the cables a common problem for 1st gen and could it be possibly just a cable issue and not MG2 and can the cables be replaced without dropping the engine and transaxle???
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I'm having a problem with the car just shutting off while I'm driving. The computer says its the crank sensor. I replaced it and it got worse would not start. Put old one back same results. Put new one in and it starts and runs but still stalls while I'm driving. Computer now says crank sensor circuit. Not sure if it is another bad sensor or short somewhere.
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I have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
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Today after school I hopped into my car and turned it on, it made a weird clanking kind of sound, but then sounded normal. I turned it off and it did the same thing again. I put the car into drive and it was so slow accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it was barely catching speed while my rpm was somewhere in the 5000's. I got home and I don't know what to do. ALSO, when my Escape is at a stoplight, it turns off and shows the engine light. What's going on. I had to put my car into park, re-ignite the car and go through, again, acceleration tremendously slow. It is a Ford Escape 2001 XLT with a new engine with 80k miles on it.
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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We purchased a used 2002 Prius from our brother-in-law's family and we're the third owners. The car has around 80K and we've owned it for about a month and a half. Before we picked the car up they took it to a dealer and checked it out. They put a new aux battery in the trunk, changed the oil and gave it the green light. We picked it up in Philadelphia and drove it home to Chicago.
Today my wife was returning from a trip down to Missouri. After a stop for gas and refreshments and just getting back on the interstate the car started to die. The warning lights came on and the battery indicator as well as the red triangle. After sitting a little while she was able to start it again but only made it to the next exit where it officially died and needed to be towed to a dealer just outside of St. Louis. It was 104 degrees out this afternoon and she did have the AC, radio and other necessities running during the trip but she had gone less than 100 miles today before it died.
It sucks to be 300 miles away (I'm home) from the car/dealer not really knowing what they'll find or say they found.
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Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
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Just bought a 2001 santa fe, 2.7 v-6, automatic trans, 2 wheel drive, new tires, 120,000mi. Got a great deal, don't want to negate that by nickle and dimming. 3 weeks ago noticed a howling from drivers front at speed, pitch changes with wheel speed not rpm so i figured wheel bearing. Took both front tires off with vehicle firmly supported and put vehicle in drive and increased rpm. The noise is not at hub but at other end where the shaft attaches to transaxle. I figured there would be an "axle bearing" or some such i could replace but I can find no reference of one, and my book doesn't have break down of the transaxle. Where can i find more information, schematics, etc? I hope I don't have to remove transaxle to have one pressed in.
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