Intrigue :: 2000 3.5L - Oil Loss / Valve Covers Leaking
Dec 28, 2014
I have a 2000 Intrigue 3.5L 155,000 Mi ... Oil use has been about 1 QT at 3000 miles since 120,000 miles. Before that I wasn't keeping track.
The valve covers were leaking pretty bad and could be smelled burning off. I replaced them along with my P/S pump. There also was fluid in the engine valley that I believe was P/S Fluid..
I changed the oil and I was 1.5 Qt low at 2,000 miles. So it is suddenly WORSE. Even though I replaced the leaking valve covers. There is also currently not fluid in the engine valley. I park in the same place every night and do not notice a puddle. Also there is no noticeable blue smoke from the exhaust. Just a little white as it is winter.
I am looking for where else the oil could be going that it doesn't leave a puddle on the ground.
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My '98 B3000 has an oil leak. There is some oil up high on bell housing. So a buddy and I thought it might be the oil pressure sending unit. I replaced it. And still seems to be leaking.
Maybe valve covers? I was thinking rear main until we saw it on the bell housing. Valve covers don't seem to be leaking on the outside. Do they leak worse on the inside of the V?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
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Ok not that last part, but I'm working on grandma's 08 Taurus V6, light blue. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good.
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So I just put billowed up pipes and changed the broken O ring in the turbo housing. Put everything back together and checked for a boost leak with the home made tester. Boots and everything ARE OK. I can hear air escaping from what seems to be the valve cover or intake. I realize that I am charging my crank case as well but it still concerns me that air is escaping from somewhere besides the CCV. I read the following forum and this guy had the same issue and after he found out he was charging his crank case he was no longer worried. . . . .
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Own a 2000 Camry XLE 6-cyl. Both valve cover gaskets are leaking. Rear one leaks onto the manifold and causes stench. Have been quoted $350. to replace because the job is complicated. Have any of you done this on your own, and if so, would you recommend it or go to a qualified mechanic?
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My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
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I was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
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So I've had this problem for a while, tried a few fixes to no avail. My wife's car is a 2000 Intrigue GLS, and for quite a while now it has been a hard start. You turn the key, starter cranks up and you have to give the engine several good cranks before it sounds like it picks up. Even then quite often it will simply die as soon as you let go of the key, or else drop down to about 200 RPMs and then rev back up.
After this you can start again no problem, or sometimes it will seem to idle a little rough until you start driving. I have replaced spark plugs, cam/crank sensors, fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body and the O2 sensor, none providing any solution. It typically will start better if it has only been off for a very short period, but if longer than a few minutes will still be hard to start.
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I have a 2000 intrigue (w/ a 3.5), it is leaking tranny fluid pretty bad. I cleaned under the tranny to see where it might be leaking and I was hoping it was the tranny pan, but it is not. where else would it be leaking? it looks like its possibly coming from the passenger drive axel. how hard is it to fix it? I keep adding fluid so I dont wreck my transmission but this cant go on for ever.
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I have a 2000 oldmobile Intrique, with the 3.5L northstar engine. While driving down the road the car will hesitate while the rpm's will decrese for a second and go back to where it was before, the speed odometer will jump up and go back down. the service will flash on and off. The car almost acts like it dies for a second but keeps on going. I have the codes checked and their are no codes in the computer.
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My 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue (Automatic) has 142,000 miles on it. Our car has been hesitating when I drive on occasion. It does it randomly, it was once or twice a month, now it's about 3 or 4 times a week. I can be either trying to accelerate from a stop or already going 50 and trying to speed up to 65 or something and it won't go. The RPM gauge will fly up to 3500 and my MPH gauge will not move.
When it does this the "Check Engine Soon" light flashes, but as soon as the episode is over, shuts off. It does it anytime of day, whether it's the first time started for the day, or been running for hours. In recent months we've replaced the battery, the starter, the timing belt, recently the fuel pump as well as a few O rings. We are tired of fixing this car and not having this problem taken care of. Our mechanic can't seem to find anything else wrong.
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My car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
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2000 3.5L
On a hard left high speed turn, it vibrates under load. Also while under throttle when making a second gear left hand turn.
Noise will come and go when going over dips at high speeds under load. I have already replaced the left Half shaft.
I am a master mechanic and have had success with changing a half shaft on a similar situation. Looking for other possibilities before I throw another half shaft at it.
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So I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with about 190k miles. It currently has an overheating problem but first I'll discuss some history:
-It had a previous overheating problem a few months ago that was accompanied by bubbling sounds. We diagnosed this as boiling coolant because the system was not pressurizing due to a leak in the reservoir. We fixed the reservoir leak and pressure tested it to find that the leak was repaired. The bubbling noises stopped and the car no longer overheated.
-The car was then underheating nearly all the time. We diagnosed this as a broken thermostat, probably killed by the overheating that was caused by the leak in the reservoir. We replaced the thermostat and bled/burped the system and now the car does not underheat.
Now the car operates around the half-temp mark and stays very regular except in traffic or parked in the driveway. So it overheats when it is idling. You can rev up the engine in these cases and see the temp gauge fall back down, so it is dependent on RPM only and not on the actual traveling speed of the car. Also at this time the car supplies nice heat to the cabin.
Things to exclude:The electric fans seem to be working fine and they switch on and off supplying a good deal of wind.The system was bled/burped.The system has a new thermostat.The system does not leak based on a pressure test.The system has enough coolant.The system supplies good heat to the cabin.
My guess is that there is a clog/general grossness inside the system someplace or that the water pump is starting to fail?
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I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
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I noticed the oil smell that can be associated with a leaking Cam Tensioner Adjustor Seal from my 2003 1.8T Passat a few months ago. The dealer confirmed that it was leaking and that it was covered by my extended warranty since my car was 5 years old and at 70K miles. I had the work done and after I picked up the car I noticed that the oil level was at the top of the hashes not at the top bend like it was when I took it in.
I don't know what caused it to drop to the hashes but I do know that the level has dropped to 3 visible hashes in the little over 1K that has been put on the car since then. I am concerned because in it's first 70K miles the car did not visibly lose a drop of oil.
Any logical cause for this annoying trend, the only thing that changed was that the Cam Tensioner and Valve Cover Gaskets were replaced. Is it possible something else was messed up during the repair?
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I have a 1994 Corolla, and it's at 107,000 miles now.Recently it stalled on the freeway, and I had to put in $600 to replace the distributor. That's what they told me that it needed at Firestone.They also told me that the gasket valve cap is leaking and that the sync belts are worn out and may stall it again any time soon. I don't currently have the $ to fix those two issues, so I only paid for the distributor.
I have no knowledge of automotive maintenance, and so can't verify that the information is correct.I noticed that the car shakes much more now, but it could be just my being more sensitive and paranoid.Today, I started driving to work, but noticed that when I am stopped at a red light, the break pedal sends a strange vibration occasionally.I don't know what could be causing this, but I decided not to risk it and just return home.I am now facing a dilemma. I can either go and repair the gasket valve cap and the sync belts for another $300 or so after I get the next paycheck, or I can look for a replacement car to buy. I am not sure I can afford even a used vehicle now.
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I had it checked out at the dealer and they called it a "weep" so they went on to tell me that VW probably wont approve warranty work for it. I pushed for them to take pictures and send it in anyway.
Now assuming they won't do it, I have been looking for a DIY or a technical order on the job but I can't find anything.
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Just found valve cover of my Tiguan is leaking out oil this morning. Will go to dealer tmr for gasket replacement. My car is just over 50k miles. What happened to VW's car quality control???
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Haven't had the engine cover off for about 25k now (cleaned it up under there last time I changed plugs.) Took it off today and noticed it's a little oily on all four sides around the valve cover.
Pretty sure I can account for the oil that's near the filler cap... I don't recall spilling enough that would completely go around the entire valve cover though...
But how did it end up so high on top of the valve cover on the corners? It's even a little wet looking on the back if you look hard enough..
I only have 4600 miles left of the 10/100 warranty so I'm glad I caught this and hope the dealer can do something about it... or are they going to tell me this a "normal" amount of seepage? I haven't owned a vehicle with plastic valve covers before so I don't quite know what to expect.
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