Intrigue :: 1999 - Turned Over And Trying To Start But Engine Would Not Engage
Jun 3, 2012
We purchased a used Intrigue with 120,000 miles on it in late March. We have had no issues with it until this morning.
This morning, the car failed to start. It turned over and seemed to be trying to start but the engine would not engage. Three tries later the car started. It then starter, slowly, two subsequent for times. At this point I drove it 35 miles to work. It appears to be driving fine - it does not stall or lose power and it is idling normally. This makes me thing the alternator is fine.
After pulling into the parking lot at work, I turned the car off. I then tried to see if it would start and I got nothing. No clicking, no turning over, no sound. The lights were bright and normal and the radio would run fine and the dash panel is lit normally.
I let the car sit for forty minutes and went out and it slowly started. Then I turned it off and started it again and it started like normal.
I will, of course, have the battery checked to see if that could be an issue (I doubt it) but I am at a loss for how to determine whether I should start by checking the ignition switch or starter (I would assume these are the two most likely culprits). I feel comfortable replacing a starter myself if that is the problem.
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My 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
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My car randomly won't start. I'll turn the key, the lights will work, the radio works, but does not start. The battery, alternator and starter are all new. Sometimes if I let the car sit for a few hours it will start. Then it will start fine for a few days then won't start again. I've even had the Neutral safety switch replaced. What other reason could make the car not start like this?
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So I have a 1999 Cavalier..I drove it yesterday without issues but when I got up this morning to go to work, I turned the key to start it and it seemed as if there was a boom from the engine. The engine didn't start, but when I tried the key again, it started right up. I drove 35 miles to work, including some highway miles at 70 mph. What would that have been? Is it a sign of things to come?
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When I turned the key to start my car, I got zero activity from it. No ticking, no lights, nothing. So I tried to do a push start, and the engine wouldn't engage. I took the key out, and suddenly my dome light popped on (though it was dim). I put my key back in and turned it, and dash lights looked normal and at full power, but as soon as I pressed the clutch down and tried to turn the key, everything went dead. I took the key out, put it back in, and turned it, but got nothing.
I pushed my truck up to the top of an incline, and turned the key. All the lights looked normal, so I thought I may be able to push start it. Key was in proper position, clutch was engaged, and gear shift was sitting in first. I got a decent speed, released the clutch... and everything went dead.
I can't decide if it's my starter or my ignition system, though I suppose it could be the wiring, or even something else.
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My 1995 Toyota Camry will not start, the engine turns but does not engage. I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a relay switch replaced. After each repair the car runs for twp weeks and then will not start. I have had it towed and the mechanics start the car with no problem and they are unable to diagnose the problem. In a month and a half, I have had the car towed 3 times.
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I'm in a bit of a bind. I was very low on gas drove my car on fumes (mistake, yes) back to my place. Today, it will not start. I dumped 3/4 of a gallon into the tank, and still no start.
The ignition will try, fail to engage the engine, and then emit rapid clicks as the interior light flashes. The battery works, as all the cabin lights turn on.
I really don't want to the fuel pump to be broken, so I'm trying to eliminate possibilities before that. Is there something wrong with the ignition, perhaps? What is the clicking after the attempted "heaves" of the ignition switch?
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My 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
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So I've had this problem for a while, tried a few fixes to no avail. My wife's car is a 2000 Intrigue GLS, and for quite a while now it has been a hard start. You turn the key, starter cranks up and you have to give the engine several good cranks before it sounds like it picks up. Even then quite often it will simply die as soon as you let go of the key, or else drop down to about 200 RPMs and then rev back up.
After this you can start again no problem, or sometimes it will seem to idle a little rough until you start driving. I have replaced spark plugs, cam/crank sensors, fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body and the O2 sensor, none providing any solution. It typically will start better if it has only been off for a very short period, but if longer than a few minutes will still be hard to start.
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I am having a problems with my intrigue... Hard to start when warm i checked the pressure reg vac hose found no fuel so im not sure if that is the problem. I have the 3800S11 engine. sometimes it will start when warm other times i need to push the gas a little to get it to start.
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With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
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2008 Ford F-250 with a 5.4 Liter V-8 3-valve engine and automatic transmission.
Running down the road at 44-MPH. Pulling 5,000lbs. Engine died just after turning on the air conditioner. (Not sure this is relevant.)
Would not start. Turned the key - the starter would engage, but the engine would only turn maybe a quarter turn. Try it again engine turns. Try it again and now it only clicks. So, I
-Replaced the battery. Same symptom. Will only turn the engine 1/4 turn.
-Replaced the starter. Same symptom.
-Checked oil. Clean. No Water. No gas smell. (200 miles since last oil change)
-Checked coolant. Clean. No Oil.
-Charged the new battery and tried again. Same symptom.
-Checked and cleaned all grounds and battery cables. Same symptom.
-Checked that the transmission is shifting though the gears. Seems fine.
-Removed serpentine belt. Check all pulleys, and accessories that are driven by the belt. Everything spins quietly and freely.
-I put the truck in neutral and tried to spin the crank pulley with a 2 breaker bar. It wouldn't budge.
Am I missing something? I fear the engine is seized or hydro-locked. If hydro-locked, wouldn't I see signs in the fluids? Can the pistons be hydrolocked with fuel? Not sure what to try next.
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My car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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My 2007 f250 power stroke 6.0. My A/C comp went out. After replacing it I was told that my fan clutch is bad and will cause the new ac to go out. My engine is not running hot. The fan still spins for a while after engine is turned off.
1) Could it have not been re installed correctly?
2) How do I know my Fan Clutch is bad?
3) How do I replace it myself?
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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I have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.
I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
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I have a 2000 f250, 5.4l triton v8 that cranks like crazy, but won't start. When I spray a little starter fluid in it it will run until the spray wears off. Brand new battery and full gas tank. it does have check engine light on dash, probably from the o2 sensor as the exhaust has almost completely rusted out. Also on a side note the cruise control will not engage.
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I bought this car as a mechanics special a couple months ago. Engine needed a new intake manifold and the timing cover was off for some reason, so I threw a new chain and tensioner on while it was open.
Finally got everything put back together and it runs really good, but it seems to lack power. If I floor it, it takes a good 8 seconds to get to 45 MPH and that's about as fast as it'll go. The engine will get to 4000 RPM and begin to stumble as if it's hitting the park/neutral rev limiter.
Does the ECM think I'm in park? Did I get the timing wrong? Fuel supply problem?
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I purchased the vehicle roughly in 2007 by auction. About 3 years ago, I notice that the car sometimes has trouble turning on but I saw it as a sight nuisance at the time. As I turn the key to start the engine there is a delay and when it does turn on it makes some disturbing noises but this is not a routine occurrence. I thought it might be the battery so I purchased a new one. I had a mechanic look at the car and he said it was the catalytic converters but I'm not sure since it passed the smog test without any problems. The car also trembles at times and releases white smoke from the exhaust pipe. I have looked at the oil stick and it has little bubbles which I'm not sure when that started. My boyfriend seems to think that it has something to do with the spark plugs.
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