Intrigue :: 1998 - Engine Won't Rev Above 4000 RPM In Drive
Jun 14, 2014
I bought this car as a mechanics special a couple months ago. Engine needed a new intake manifold and the timing cover was off for some reason, so I threw a new chain and tensioner on while it was open.
Finally got everything put back together and it runs really good, but it seems to lack power. If I floor it, it takes a good 8 seconds to get to 45 MPH and that's about as fast as it'll go. The engine will get to 4000 RPM and begin to stumble as if it's hitting the park/neutral rev limiter.
Does the ECM think I'm in park? Did I get the timing wrong? Fuel supply problem?
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I have a Camry with 198K miles. When accelerating hard and hitting just over 4000 rpm the car will start surging. Letting off the gas and allowing the the automatic transmission to shift will stop the surging.
Will do this in any gear. The first few times the P1310 code came up but the last few times it did not throw any codes.
Also have the P0401 code which I have had for several years.
This is a very consistent problem which only occurs at just over 4000 rpms.
Just did some more testing and found that slowly revving the engine with car in Park will cause the same issue. When it gets to 4000 RPM it surges. Is there are rev limiter at 4000 rpm for some reason?
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I have done a extensive tune up on my intrigue, I have been having a problem last six months or so with it losing rpms while driving, idles fine and only loses rpms while foot is barely on peddle, If I give it more gas jumps up to normal, what may be causing this?
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I am having a problems with my intrigue... Hard to start when warm i checked the pressure reg vac hose found no fuel so im not sure if that is the problem. I have the 3800S11 engine. sometimes it will start when warm other times i need to push the gas a little to get it to start.
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How to replace the power steering pump in a 98 intrigue S113800?
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Car 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Engine 3.8 series II 160,000 KM
Problem : The Steering wheel won't move, I can start and drive the car forward/reverse but the wheel won't move right or left?? I was planning on scrapping the car in spring 2015 but need to move the car and don't have a clue on fixing this issue.
The key cylinder is located in the dash and I don't have any passlock II codes errors when trying to start the car, My power steering pump doesn't squeal or is locked (not Burning belts) but the pump is empty. I was thinking a seized rack & pinion but have never heard of that,I should still have manual steering I'm guessing still.
[URL] ......
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My wife's 1998 oldsmobile intrigue. i have replaced the starter with a rebuild from advance auto parts, had the alternator rebuilt and installed a new battery. the car runs until the battery dies and then it will shut down while driving. it can be jumped and started but will die again when the battery drains.
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I recently bought an '98 Oldsmobile Intrigue, I do not know much of anything more than how to check fluids and were to put them when low, So here's the issues that I have come across.
Roughish idle. when stopped and in drive it has a rough idle but not bad yet.
Driver Side windows do not go up or down. The driver window is stuck with a 1/4 inch gap I keep weather proof tape over it. the back window slides up and down but not with the button also held up by tape. I can hear the motor running when I press the button but no luck.
A/C motor works but no air blows out of the vents.
Driver side back up lights don't work and Driver side front blinker or parking light does not work.
Security light recently come on and can't get it to go off whenever the car is started and it is a steady light no flash or blink.
I already know there is a small leak in the radiator and even with the issues it has I love the lil car and want to fix it up to proper working order. So, what I can possibly do?
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I have a 1998 3.8L with 1995500 miles. When I go over big bumps there is a sound from my right rear that sounds like a diving board after someone has jumped off.
I assumed that is was the rear struts needing replacements so I asked someone to look at it and I mentioned the struts. Of course they said I needed new struts all around. I accept that.
What I want to make sure is that replacing the rear struts will fix the diving board problem and that these guys aren't just saying struts because I said struts and they just want the $$.
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1998 Olds Intrigue 3.8L ... When I turn on the right signal on my Olds Intrigue the back light flashes faster than normal. The front light does not flash. I purchased a new light bulb for the front. I replaced the bulb. The back flashes at a faster rate but the front does not flash. I replaced the front and rear bulbs. The front does not flash and the rear flashes at a faster rate. Do you think there is a broken wire or broken signal flasher?
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So I was driving home from when my engine started to sputter once it hit 4000 rpm and the CEL came on so I figured it was my plugs and coils, I changed all of those and unplugged my battery to get the CEL to go away, now all of a sudden my computer is crazy, I have a lot of indicators and my gears indicators are all highlighted, when I start the car and put in it gear is shifts really hard, I just don't know what to do!
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Temperature outside (weather data): 55F. Temperature gauge in prius: 57F. It felt more like 70F. It's a 2010 Prius III model that is 6 months old and has about 3942 miles and is driven VERY carefully.
I start the Prius and when the ICE engages to warm up. There's LOUD intense engine knock. I immediately turn the power off. After a couple of seconds, I start it again....the ICE engages again and then starts knocking rapidly (it is definitely knocking) and after 10 seconds. It goes back to normal. It was so intense that it may have damaged other components or the engine block itself.
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I've had a weird problem pop up within the past few weeks. My engine seems to have a noticeable whine above 4000 RPMs. It sounds almost like a supercharger whine, but my engine is completely stock. Possible problems I found online include exhaust leak, vacuum leak or tensioner issue for the belts.
Another issue I have had is that whenever shifting into second gear, I have some difficulty getting it into second gear. It makes a scraping sound as though the clutch is not disengaged all the way. On occasion, I have also had the shifter kind of pop second gear out when continuing onto third or even feel like it is rejecting second gear sometimes. A friend of mine told me that the scraping sound is normal and, "that's just how manuals are." Doesn't seem normal to me especially since it is every time I shift to second gear.
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My Jeep sounds like it is in low gear and engine sounds like its turning 4000rpm but only when cold. This is so noticeable that dogs stare and pedestrians run for cover. Once the engine and drivetrain warm up a little, all is normal. The reality is that the engine is only turning 2500rpm and it is shifting, but the tranny doesn't feel like its grabbing very well. After just a few minutes driving, all is well and there is plenty of power. Fluids are all topped off and fresh.Is it time to warm this baby up and drive it to the nearest car lot?
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I now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE (4-spd auto) and today had to merge in fast moving traffic....the engine hit about 4000rpm for about 2 seconds or so and then dropped back down to 2800 and eventually 2300.
Not sure what the redline is for the 2000 corolla, but I'm guessing that hitting it especially when under load is bad even for a few seconds?
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The past two times I've driven to work I've hit significant traffic. While in the middle of stop and go traffic, the engine started to idle at high RPM (3000-4000). Today the temperature gauge really started climbing and hit the red, at which point I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. No smoke, no noise and no check engine lights. As soon as the road started to clear and we were moving again, the car was fine. The engine cooled, stayed cool, and the idle returned to it's normal 1000 RPM.
The dealer was unfortunately unable to reproduce these findings, though they thought it could be a stuck thermostat.
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My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
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We purchased a used Intrigue with 120,000 miles on it in late March. We have had no issues with it until this morning.
This morning, the car failed to start. It turned over and seemed to be trying to start but the engine would not engage. Three tries later the car started. It then starter, slowly, two subsequent for times. At this point I drove it 35 miles to work. It appears to be driving fine - it does not stall or lose power and it is idling normally. This makes me thing the alternator is fine.
After pulling into the parking lot at work, I turned the car off. I then tried to see if it would start and I got nothing. No clicking, no turning over, no sound. The lights were bright and normal and the radio would run fine and the dash panel is lit normally.
I let the car sit for forty minutes and went out and it slowly started. Then I turned it off and started it again and it started like normal.
I will, of course, have the battery checked to see if that could be an issue (I doubt it) but I am at a loss for how to determine whether I should start by checking the ignition switch or starter (I would assume these are the two most likely culprits). I feel comfortable replacing a starter myself if that is the problem.
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Just had a new issue pop up - sometimes, when making a sharp left turn when the engine RPM is low (going into driveway, turning at a stop sign), the engine will suddenly die. It seems to be running fine otherwise, it does not idle rough, and the idle RPM is around 600-700. It never dies on the highway or higher speeds, yet anyway.
I do notice that my power steering pump is making a little noise. It is an aftermarket pump. The steering assist seems to work fine though.
I recently had the spark plugs, valve cover gasket, and a fuel pressure sensor replaced. As I understand it, the mechanics checked the fuel pump and it was working fine.
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