I am having a problems with my intrigue... Hard to start when warm i checked the pressure reg vac hose found no fuel so im not sure if that is the problem. I have the 3800S11 engine. sometimes it will start when warm other times i need to push the gas a little to get it to start.
View 4 RepliesSo I've had this problem for a while, tried a few fixes to no avail. My wife's car is a 2000 Intrigue GLS, and for quite a while now it has been a hard start. You turn the key, starter cranks up and you have to give the engine several good cranks before it sounds like it picks up. Even then quite often it will simply die as soon as you let go of the key, or else drop down to about 200 RPMs and then rev back up.
After this you can start again no problem, or sometimes it will seem to idle a little rough until you start driving. I have replaced spark plugs, cam/crank sensors, fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body and the O2 sensor, none providing any solution. It typically will start better if it has only been off for a very short period, but if longer than a few minutes will still be hard to start.
I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue V6-214 3.5L, My Torque Converter locks after good and warmed up. A code 742 comes on when this is happening. I’ve looked into replacing the TCC solenoid or I’ve read where you can cut the wire going to the TCC.
If I cut the wire (not what I really want to do) I’m not sure which wire to cut. I need to find a good wiring diagram.
If I replace the solenoid (I think I am capable) I’m not sure which one to replace. I work part time at Auto Zone and they list the lockup solenoid the same as one of the shift solenoids. If it is one of these which one is I’m assuming it would be the 2-3 shift solenoid. There is also the TCC Pulse Width Modulation Solenoid valve assembly.
Rough shifts like my 99 GLS (93k mi.) suffers from. Why this would happen only in warm weather and stop and go driving and not when the outside temp is less than 60 degrees?
View 7 RepliesMy accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
After truck gets warm it won't restart.
View 5 RepliesI recenty replaced the upper intake manifold gasket on my gmc sierra 1500 350 motor. In the process I did plugs and wires and power steering pump. I went through everything and cleaned it to perfection and put it together. It started like a dream and took it for a test burn out in the country. About 15 miles down the road I shut it down and went through all the fluids and upon starting I noticed it was really hard starting. Kinda like it had alot of compression. I just replaced the battery 2 month ago with the best Interstate battery they had and it still checks out good.
Every time I went to start it cold it started normal but when warm it had the same hard starting issue. Well a week later I stopped at the store before work and it did the same but then just rested to a stop and now the starter just clicks every time I turn the key. I can turn the motor over by hand with a wrench and all battery connection are good. I just put a new starter in today thinking that may have been a fluke of a deal but nothing still. I did see when I first tried the new starter that the pulley on the alternator was trying to spin over ever so slowly tell it quit again.
My Camry has 185,809 miles on the 4 cylinder, it has recently started to be hard to start when it's at operating temperature, has code P0301 and p0302 replaced spark plugs at 185,000 miles no change, possibly ignition coils?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
View 5 RepliesI have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
View 1 Replies I got a new to me 2004 4x4 Excursion v10. 98,000 miles but why it is hard to start when the engine is warm. Starts right up when cold, engine not ambient air temp, idles great once started. In park idles at 1,000 until normal op temp is reach, then down to 750ish. In gear idles right at 650. Drives great. Plenty of power, does not surge, averaging 13.7 mpg over two tanks (70% hwy, 30% city) and no codes. Since it is new to me, and I don't trust people to do maintenance I have:
Replaced spark plugs
Replace downstream o2 sensor (the two upstream were not in stock)
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced belt
Replaced crank sensor (because the belt was already off)
Changed oil (mobile 1 5w20) and filter.
I bought this car as a mechanics special a couple months ago. Engine needed a new intake manifold and the timing cover was off for some reason, so I threw a new chain and tensioner on while it was open.
Finally got everything put back together and it runs really good, but it seems to lack power. If I floor it, it takes a good 8 seconds to get to 45 MPH and that's about as fast as it'll go. The engine will get to 4000 RPM and begin to stumble as if it's hitting the park/neutral rev limiter.
Does the ECM think I'm in park? Did I get the timing wrong? Fuel supply problem?
I have done a extensive tune up on my intrigue, I have been having a problem last six months or so with it losing rpms while driving, idles fine and only loses rpms while foot is barely on peddle, If I give it more gas jumps up to normal, what may be causing this?
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe and have recently noticed the following problem. When it is hot outside (95 degrees) and car has been idling for a while, suddenly the A/C will start blowing warm air and the temperature gauge will start creeping up above normal. It hasn't fully overheated as when this occurs, I shut off the A/C or start moving and it returns to normal temperature. The A/C will then work properly again. Also, when this happens, if I turn the car off and then try to start it again a few minutes later, it is very hard to start but eventually starts. It can easily be reproduced, but I want to try to understand possible cause before taking it to a dealer. I was thinking maybe fan going bad, or fan switch.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
I have a recently rebuilt 400 with a mild cam and Tmeyers flat top pistons. The carb is a 600cfm edlebrock that was bought new and installed a few months ago.
The issue I'm having is if I'm driving around and shut it off to run in the store its hard to start when I come back. I end up having to floor the gas to get it to start. When it's cold I tap the gas and turn the key and she lights right off. Could this be an issue with vapor lock? Why does it go away if I floor the gas?
Only other thing going on is when accelerating the engine runs noticeably smoother above 2700rpm. It's a little boggy below that. Probably two different problems but I figured I would throw it out there.
How to replace the power steering pump in a 98 intrigue S113800?
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