I've got a 99 with manual heater with no heat, a 23 code from the bcm, pulled fuse 19 for 5 minutes, still the same.Also when it was hot and we were running the air the passenger floor was wet. my question is what do I have to take off the dash (and how without breaking) to get to the heater?
View 3 RepliesI'm working on a 1994 Dodge Intrepid with a 3.3L engine. The heater isn't working very well at all. I have run water straight through the heater core with a garden hose and it doesn't seem to be clogged up at all. I have also taken the blend air door actuator off and made sure the blend door was set on heat. Also, when the car is warmed up, I can pinch all of the heater hoses off by hand, and I don't feel like there is much, if any coolant flowing through them. The car isn't overheating or anything, so I'm wondering if the water pump could be working but just not pushing enough water through the system to run the heat?
View 6 RepliesI am having a problem with the heater on my 98 2.7 Intrepid. Will not blow hot air when idling (just warm). After several minutes of driving with heat on air temp goes from hot to warm. It might just be me, but it seems like the air flow is cooler coming out of the defrost vents than from the dash/floor vents. Thermostat has been replaced (proper operation verified before installing). Had to replace gooseneck and heater coil supply tubing due to a leaking bleed valve. There appears to be NO air in the system.
Heater core was backflushed, there appears to be no restriction. Hose temp on exit line is approx. 15 deg. cooler than supply line when fan is running. Blend door actuator was replaced last spring (motor shorted). When temp control is moved from hot to cold temp changes drastically and door can be heard moving. On-board ATC diagnostics indicate all is good. Engine is running at normal operating temperature, not overheating or running cold. Is there a cabin filter or inlet supply for the air that could possibly be obstructed? Air flow seems adequate, not restricted. AC works fine.
It takes a LONG time for my heater to warm up... to be expected of an old car. However, once my heater is warmed up enough, it blows cold air when I'm idling at a light or anything. Once I get back up to 35 MPH it goes right back up to its temperature. Then drops again when I stop.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Intrepid with ATC (automatic temperature control).I noticed my A/C clutch is always is on even in heat mode (no defrost mode) Is this normal in automatic mode even if I set temp at 90° without defrost mode? Been looking on forums and some say it is normal for newer cars and some say no. What is correct.Doesn't seem normal to me when I set temp at 90° and the A/C is still running. The heat does work though.I did check for voltage at the clutch and it has power so something is telling it to run, (not a bad clutch,stuck clutch etc).
I never seen or heard it cycle when watching it. (hard to tell when driving) because the cooling fans go from low to high sometimes even without the A/C cycling.
In manual mode I can physically turn on or off the A/C but if it is on, I never seen it cycle yet when set at a normal temp 72-75° is this normal?I know it depends on outside temp,humidity, inside temp etc but if it feels comfortable in the cabin shouldn't the A/C cycle on and off every few minuts-10 minutes etc or is it normal to go 30 minutes or more without cycling? I don't have it on max Cool or recirculate mode either.
I have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
View 1 Replies2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
My heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
View 3 RepliesI cannot get the heater to move heat to the floor in my 02 Camry LE I-4? All other modes seem to function just fine.
View 1 Replies07 Prius has 188,000 miles on it. Inverter Pump replaced 10/2011. At that time, dealer recommended "replace Heater Pump-making noise and pending code." I have not done this repair yet. In 12/2012, the heater is no longer operating instantly and takes about 10 miles to heat up and occasionally acts up and supplies heat intermittently. About a month ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I noticed that when I re-screwed my gas cap on, that light would go off. About 2 weeks later, light stayed on continually so I replaced gas cap. Light still will not go off and I have driven it 6 times on trips more than 40 miles each.
View 7 RepliesMy son's 98 Expedition has no heat. The radiator and overflow tank are full, there's no air in the system. The radiator hoses get nice and hot but the heater hoses stay cold. We can hear the flow through the vents change when we change the temp control so I'm sure the blend door works fine. Seems like the problem is that no hot coolant is making it to the heater core. So I'm wondering if there is a diverter valve somewhere that could be bad that's keeping the hot coolant away from the HC or if a clogged HC is the only thing that could cause this.
View 1 RepliesI bought my 2006 Prius a little over a year ago from a Toyota dealer in the area, and within the first month I had a strange occurrence. I got into my car, pressed the power button to start the car and everything on the dashboard lit up, the power button flashed amber, the clock's numbers were just barely visible, and the car wouldn't start. Frantic that no matter what I did (shut it off, took the keys out, and tried again several times with the same results), I called the dealer who sold me the car and just as he was about to send out a tow truck to get me, I tried it one last time and it started. I took it directly to the dealership, they inspected it, and came back with the response of 'there's nothing wrong with it, I don't know why it did that. If it happens again, come back again.' No charge and supposedly no problem, I let it go.
Well, exactly 1 year later (to the day) and suddenly it happens again. So I take it to the dealer again. They checked the battery in the back and now they're telling me it's a bad battery cell. They insist the two incidents are completely unrelated. I left to go to class that night and had no more issues that day. But now I have a car that's been getting harder and harder to start. The power button doesn't even light up green anymore. I've noticed that I have issues when I open my door and the alarm goes off like I've left the key in the ignition, but I haven't. I knew when I opened the door yesterday and the alarm sounded that I was going to have issues. Sure enough, the car wouldn't turn on, and after two tries, it became completely unresponsive.
Which battery has the bad cell? They tested in the back, where the hybrid battery is. Also, it seems like there's something more serious than just the battery, considering I've read the manual a zillion and one times since I first had issues in hopes of trying to figure out what's been going on. The power button, like I said, flashes amber when it turns on, then disappears once it's on, but there is no green light instead.
Also, I've been getting repeatedly worse and worse gas mileage since the fall, the last fill only lasting me 350 miles or so with an mpg average of 34.6. I know it's winter and that the Prius typically gets worse gas mileage in the winter due to the heater being on. But the funny thing is, I don't drive with the heater on, even through the winter. I only use the heater when I need to defrost a window or I have company in my car because I like the cold. However, I got stuck on the I-90 for about 9 hours in the beginning of December and I noticed then that the heaters for the feet was varying how much air was blowing out of them after a few hours, and ever since then it's had the same problem. I figured it might have been a need to change the cabin air filters, but now I'm wondering if it points to something else...
Our 2005 Sonata GLS with 100,000 miles has a digitally controlled system for the heater & A/C. For more than 2 years the only way to get heat was to raise the temperature up into the 85 - 90 degree range. Now we must put it all the way up to 90. When we do, the heat is extreme.
View 1 RepliesThe heater in my '07 Sonata (V6) does not seem to do too much - the air gets warm, but not hot - even at full blast. (A real problem here in Wisconsin when the outside temp gets below zero). Temperature gauge always reads below the midpoint on the gauge. My hunch is I need to install a hotter thermostat.
View 5 RepliesI have a 09 santa fe and it just started doing this. when we start it and let it warm up it will get the normal temp and will blow hot air but when we start to drive the thermostat goes back down to cold and it will blow cold air. I have had a problem similar to this before and taken it back to the dealership and they replace the same thing over and over. but this time its not fixing itself and it is staying like this. usually it will fix itself.
View 5 RepliesModel is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
So the story goes that one day my 2013 RX350 stop blowing heat from the air vent. I took my car in the dealer to have to take a look. First of all, it took them a WHOLE week to diagnosis the problem, second of all, a consultant told me that he FOUND a pen inside the heater box that caused the gear shaft to break, which is used to control the heater doors...
What is he talking about? More importantly, he's saying I "accidentally dropped a pen" from the passenger side compartment storage and it somehow caused the heater door broke?
Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
View 7 Replies2000 Expedition. Had ford mechanic replace front heater core due to not having heat in the front and back. wife brings it home I check all vents and notice there's good heat up front but not the back, then I switch the rear from panel to floor heat and hear a thumping sound (figure the blend door is doing it) still no heat in rear. returned to ford mechanic and they stated my blender door switch is not working properly, so they flushed out rear core and instead of fixing the blender door switch they kept it on floor position and charged me another bill. could it be possible that while replacing front core the gunk made it to the rear hoses and core, and clogged it up, and damaged the blender door switch somehow. prior to my heat issues I never had any problems with the rear blender door, just no heat due to front core needing replaced according to them "FORD".
View 1 RepliesI've checked just about everything, coolant level is good, engine gets hot, heater control valves moves, blend air door moves, the heater hoses don't feel as hot as I think they should, but the gauge reads in the middle, I burped it thoroughly and still no heat , blower works i actually can switch the blend air door manually, but no change! what am i missing? t-stat was changed too. 2001 sport trac....
View 2 RepliesI have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.